Ich treatment in tank with only zoanthids?

mjw011689

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Is it possible to run an ich treatment in a display if the only coral is a few zoa frags? All fish seem to be fine but have some light spotting coming up.

would any medication be safe if this is going to be a reef tank in the future? Or does the medication stay in the rock, sand, silicone, etc?

i can pull the zoa frags if I need to, I’m more concerned about whether a medication will prevent me from keeping corals in this tank in the future.
 
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You can use Ruby Reef Rally Pro in your DT. I prefer to put fish in a hospital tank and use Copper Power for Ich and let my DT go fallow. Also, (in addition) consider using Hydroplex for a 10 minute saltwater dip to kill the bugs on the fish. It worked well for me and is low stress.
 

Jay Hemdal

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Is it possible to run an ich treatment in a display if the only coral is a few zoa frags? All fish seem to be fine but have some light spotting coming up.

would any medication be safe if this is going to be a reef tank in the future? Or does the medication stay in the rock, sand, silicone, etc?

i can pull the zoa frags if I need to, I’m more concerned about whether a medication will prevent me from keeping corals in this tank in the future.
If you can pull all of the invertebrates, you can consider treating the tank with hyposalinity, that way, your rocks and sand won’t be contaminated like with copper.
Jay
 
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Thanks for the quick replies. As for the ruby, once treatment is done, how long should I wait to call it safe for inverts and corals?
The inverts and corals are safe with Ruby Reef Rally Pro. Kindly read the instructions. :)
 
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mjw011689

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Now the bigger question, does the stuff work? I’m assuming you’ve used it with success?

On the flip side, how likely would it be that ich actually kills my fish (2 black clowns and a foxface)? Like I said, they’re all perfectly normal and eating very strong still, including the foxface who has it the most. He’s acting like his normal fatty self regarding food. Would I be better just letting this play out? Obviously if it gets real bad, treatment is necessary, but I mean… I’m sure sometimes they’re perfectly fine beating it themselves without treatment?

Also, does temperature affect ich? The tank was recently (very slowly) brought from 71ish to 77. Does lower temp kill ich?
 
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vetteguy53081

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Thanks for the quick replies. As for the ruby, once treatment is done, how long should I wait to call it safe for inverts and corals?
Ruby is good for bacterial, some worms and velvet, not so much ich and as Jay stated, it should not be entered into any tank that will be intended for coral or inverts.
Copper based medication is best treatment and will remain in the tank for extended periods. It is the reason for quarantine tank which is as simple as a starter tank kit from Walmart which has most of the essentials needed and provides a separate tank for treatment allowing the coral and inverts to remain safe in the display tank while ich and other illnesses are addressed .
 

vetteguy53081

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Now the bigger question, does the stuff work? I’m assuming you’ve used it with success?

On the flip side, how likely would it be that ich actually kills my fish (2 black clowns and a foxface)? Like I said, they’re all perfectly normal and eating very strong still, including the foxface who has it the most. He’s acting like his normal fatty self regarding food. Would I be better just letting this play out? Obviously if it gets real bad, treatment is necessary, but I mean… I’m sure sometimes they’re perfectly fine beating it themselves without treatment?

Also, does temperature affect ich? The tank was recently (very slowly) brought from 71ish to 77. Does lower temp kill ich?
ich is one of the main killers as is velvet which kills quickly. The temperature of 71 is Too low and would promote disease such as ich. Reason for quarantining is not waiting for anything to emerge or progress. If one waits for a disease to emerge and treqat when it gets real bad- It's often too late. I would Not take this chance.
Given the options were introduced, how you proceed will be your call - again QT highly recommended.
 

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Ruby is good for bacterial, some worms and velvet, not so much ich and as Jay stated, it should not be entered into any tank that will be intended for coral or inverts.
Copper based medication is best treatment and will remain in the tank for extended periods. It is the reason for quarantine tank which is as simple as a starter tank kit from Walmart which has most of the essentials needed and provides a separate tank for treatment allowing the coral and inverts to remain safe in the display tank while ich and other illnesses are addressed .
Vetteguy, I kindly suggest that you have misspoken or made a typing error. Ruby Reef does treat for parasites and is safe for corals and invertebrates. Jay mentions hyposalinity and copper above.
 
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Sebastiancrab

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Now the bigger question, does the stuff work? I’m assuming you’ve used it with success?

On the flip side, how likely would it be that ich actually kills my fish (2 black clowns and a foxface)? Like I said, they’re all perfectly normal and eating very strong still, including the foxface who has it the most. He’s acting like his normal fatty self regarding food. Would I be better just letting this play out? Obviously if it gets real bad, treatment is necessary, but I mean… I’m sure sometimes they’re perfectly fine beating it themselves without treatment?

Also, does temperature affect ich? The tank was recently (very slowly) brought from 71ish to 77. Does lower temp kill ich?
It is likely that ich will kill your fish or they will get so weak that something else will such as a bacterial infection or lack of appetite. I personally would prefer to be safe rather than sorry. I immediately jump on any problem a fish has. This is only good husbandry and not being cruel to God's creatures.
 
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