Ok, well this never got started from over a year ago. I started to get it up and running and life took over...as I was starting to put it up, I noticed that the seams were sloppy and I was not happy considering the price I paid. So I contacted the company and come to find out, it had been sold to another person and they have been having complaints about the tanks that were built towards the end of the old ownership. They said they would make it right. I took it back up there and come to find out, the guy left the spacers in the silicone and the bottom glass was not square...The new owner had to completely redo the tank and order new bottom glass. That took about 8 weeks and then I really decided to up the level on this tank...it’s original goal was to be super low tech...but that is no longer the case as you will see throughout this build.
What I want to final outcome of this build to be, is something that looks like a very refined high piece of furniture. Something that looks like it belongs and there just happens to be a tank on top of it.
I am incorporating some elements that I have not seen used in aquarium stands before...hopefully it will live up to that claim.
To give you an idea and add a little suspense, this tank will have 3 remotes and none go to the LED lighting over the tank or any of the “traditional†tank equipment. It might be fun to have people take guesses as what each of the 3 remotes go to? just comment in the thread.
The tank is a 34.9 gallon shallow rimless starfire peninsula tank. The goal of this tank is to have it be deadly quiet and everything will be self contained under the stand...nothing external including the chiller and top off.
I will also be utilizing a big return pump, to run a manifold and feed all necessary pieces...there will be no other pump besides the return and the skimmer...
This will be mostly an NPS tank and zoas...so the feeding will be heavy and I will need to have a few different means to help keep levels low.
Tank Specs:
36Lx16Wx14H peninsula style with internal overflow
3 sides 1/2" starfire glass w/ black back
Rimless
Drains and returns inside overflow
Stand:
36"Lx16"Wx34"H
Will be made from 3/4" ply wood the same stuff they make road signs, but will be painted for sure and experimenting with some options that will be revealed when they are completed. As stated above, everything will be under the stand including the chiller and ATO container. That section will be partitioned off and the doors will have screens to allow airflow to move through and let the chiller breath.
Lighting:
My own custom 10 channel LED that is running a storm X controller. You can see more details in my build thread for it. It will be have UV, red, amber, green, lime green, turquoise, cyan, UV, UV/Actinic, True Violet, Hyper Violet, Yellow, Warm White, Cool White and Neutral White. The whites will be on their own channels and the rest of the colors will be on channels with like colors.
Filtration:
Octopus SRO XP1000 SS skimmer w/ bubble blaster pump
Running GFO and Carbon through 3d reef dual chamber reactor
Running Poly beads through 3d reef 2 chamber reactor (I will incorpoarte the big poly beads and the new all in one poly beads)
I will also be running Lathium through 3d reef dual chamber reactors
Sump:
Octopus PVC mini sump 18.75"Lx12"Wx16"H
Controller:
Neptune Aquacontroller w/ a dc8
Will monitor- PH, ORP, & temp
Will be hooked up to monitor wirelessly from anywhere
Water Movement:
Tunze 6095 w/ 7096 controller
Tunze 6025
returns from sump
Misc. Equipment:
Artica 1/15th chiller
Octopus water blaster 7000 return pump (this will have a manifold that runs all other equipment...chiller, reactors, uv, return, etc)
Turbo Twist UV sterlizer
TMC V2-ozone ozioner, just plumbed through a 3d reef dual chamber reactor and then that will be dumped into the skimmer intake (will only run about 2 hours a day, more for water clarity than anything)
Elos ATO
ATO container is a slim water reservoir (usually used for camping), will hold about 6 gallons of water, which in my current set up, lasts me about 2 weeks, before needing to be filled again 14"Lx6"Wx16"H
Neptune Auto Feeder
Dosing:
- Will be dosing cal., mag, kalk, tropic marin k+ & a- elements...all just put into the top off bin (no calcium reactor, no dosers, etc.), I have had very good success with this method in my current set up. The ELOS tops off in very, very small amounts of water, so it does a good job at dosing small amounts of those into the tank to keep up a constant supply instead of massive doses once a day. It also keeps me from having to add stuff daily, I just do it once every two weeks and I am set.
- reef gensis one (hand dosed)
- reef gensis fuel (hand dosed)
I will of course update with some pics of equipment and the tank once it is built (almost finished) and the process of putting it all together…
I'd LOVE to see some guesses on what the remotes will go to, so please take a shot and comment.
What I want to final outcome of this build to be, is something that looks like a very refined high piece of furniture. Something that looks like it belongs and there just happens to be a tank on top of it.
I am incorporating some elements that I have not seen used in aquarium stands before...hopefully it will live up to that claim.
To give you an idea and add a little suspense, this tank will have 3 remotes and none go to the LED lighting over the tank or any of the “traditional†tank equipment. It might be fun to have people take guesses as what each of the 3 remotes go to? just comment in the thread.
The tank is a 34.9 gallon shallow rimless starfire peninsula tank. The goal of this tank is to have it be deadly quiet and everything will be self contained under the stand...nothing external including the chiller and top off.
I will also be utilizing a big return pump, to run a manifold and feed all necessary pieces...there will be no other pump besides the return and the skimmer...
This will be mostly an NPS tank and zoas...so the feeding will be heavy and I will need to have a few different means to help keep levels low.
Tank Specs:
36Lx16Wx14H peninsula style with internal overflow
3 sides 1/2" starfire glass w/ black back
Rimless
Drains and returns inside overflow
Stand:
36"Lx16"Wx34"H
Will be made from 3/4" ply wood the same stuff they make road signs, but will be painted for sure and experimenting with some options that will be revealed when they are completed. As stated above, everything will be under the stand including the chiller and ATO container. That section will be partitioned off and the doors will have screens to allow airflow to move through and let the chiller breath.
Lighting:
My own custom 10 channel LED that is running a storm X controller. You can see more details in my build thread for it. It will be have UV, red, amber, green, lime green, turquoise, cyan, UV, UV/Actinic, True Violet, Hyper Violet, Yellow, Warm White, Cool White and Neutral White. The whites will be on their own channels and the rest of the colors will be on channels with like colors.
Filtration:
Octopus SRO XP1000 SS skimmer w/ bubble blaster pump
Running GFO and Carbon through 3d reef dual chamber reactor
Running Poly beads through 3d reef 2 chamber reactor (I will incorpoarte the big poly beads and the new all in one poly beads)
I will also be running Lathium through 3d reef dual chamber reactors
Sump:
Octopus PVC mini sump 18.75"Lx12"Wx16"H
Controller:
Neptune Aquacontroller w/ a dc8
Will monitor- PH, ORP, & temp
Will be hooked up to monitor wirelessly from anywhere
Water Movement:
Tunze 6095 w/ 7096 controller
Tunze 6025
returns from sump
Misc. Equipment:
Artica 1/15th chiller
Octopus water blaster 7000 return pump (this will have a manifold that runs all other equipment...chiller, reactors, uv, return, etc)
Turbo Twist UV sterlizer
TMC V2-ozone ozioner, just plumbed through a 3d reef dual chamber reactor and then that will be dumped into the skimmer intake (will only run about 2 hours a day, more for water clarity than anything)
Elos ATO
ATO container is a slim water reservoir (usually used for camping), will hold about 6 gallons of water, which in my current set up, lasts me about 2 weeks, before needing to be filled again 14"Lx6"Wx16"H
Neptune Auto Feeder
Dosing:
- Will be dosing cal., mag, kalk, tropic marin k+ & a- elements...all just put into the top off bin (no calcium reactor, no dosers, etc.), I have had very good success with this method in my current set up. The ELOS tops off in very, very small amounts of water, so it does a good job at dosing small amounts of those into the tank to keep up a constant supply instead of massive doses once a day. It also keeps me from having to add stuff daily, I just do it once every two weeks and I am set.
- reef gensis one (hand dosed)
- reef gensis fuel (hand dosed)
I will of course update with some pics of equipment and the tank once it is built (almost finished) and the process of putting it all together…
I'd LOVE to see some guesses on what the remotes will go to, so please take a shot and comment.