I bought a 180 g acrylic.... But there are scratches

hrdneglcry

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I bought a used 180g acrylic. I did not take a good enough look at it evidently because I see many deep scratches. The owner said whatever scratches is has are not visible when its filled. Some of these have algae in them so I don't see how that could be true. Before I build a stand I'm wondering if I should get away from this tank or try to fix the scratches or live with it. The top of the tank is likemany acrylics with just small openings so I'm not even sure how to get in there. The top piece has two cracks but I assume that is ok. I could use some tips because this is my first large acrylic aquarium. I think I got ripped off maybe although I got it for $150. I had a 60 g acrylic with no scratches. Also including a pic of one of the cracks on top. You can also make the two out in large pic of it on the floor. Help please.
IMG_0931.jpeg
IMG_0933.jpeg IMG_0934.jpeg IMG_0935.jpeg IMG_0932.jpeg IMG_0936.jpeg
 
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hrdneglcry

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I sort of need it. My fish need a bigger tank. I think it will look ok as long as I can get setup. I want to put acrylic over the crack on the top and I started a new thread. I'd rather have the fish be happier. The tank they are in now is a 120 glass. The sides an back are scratched badly. The front is ok. Thing is now I bought this thing and I din't know if I can even get my money back. As long as it holds water safely I can buff the scratches if they are terrible.
 

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Although you can buff acrylic, anything that catches your fingernail is pretty much permanent. I would not trust those cracks. Those are structural. I'm a worry wort so personally, I would want to sandwich them with acrylic reinforcements, which might be overkill. How do the seams look?
 

Troylee

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That tank isn’t worth the effort in my opinion to fix.. talking weeks of work to buff and that repair is sketchy as its structural.. with that being said if you got the time and don’t mind drill a hole in the end of that crack and laminate it with 3/8” acrylic on top and bottom with Weldon 40 or 42 and start sanding your life away to polish but in the end I don’t think you’ll be happy with the results.
 

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I'm sure you've found a solution to your tank issue by now? I'm actually tagging in because I'm curious as to how some members are saying "structurally damaged"? I see the big crack on the top deck. I'd use Weld-On #4 and call it a day. And the front display scratches I'm not sure how deep, but structurally, they should be fine except for being an eyesore. Surely a tank that big is minimally 3/8" -1/2" thick? Acrylic is amazing strong! Now, directly below the top fracture, in that corner, is it spidering away on each side? Use the Weld-On #4. It's a miracle worker!
To all...I'm not saying your wrong, as I'm just curious to learn.
 
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hrdneglcry

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I'm sure you've found a solution to your tank issue by now? I'm actually tagging in because I'm curious as to how some members are saying "structurally damaged"? I see the big crack on the top deck. I'd use Weld-On #4 and call it a day. And the front display scratches I'm not sure how deep, but structurally, they should be fine except for being an eyesore. Surely a tank that big is minimally 3/8" -1/2" thick? Acrylic is amazing strong! Now, directly below the top fracture, in that corner, is it spidering away on each side? Use the Weld-On #4. It's a miracle worker!
To all...I'm not saying your wrong, as I'm just curious to learn.
Not worried about the scratches. Its a 180. I will overkill the top by sandwhiching it. I will not buff. My current tank was so scrathed it looks like it was cleaned inside with steel wool. But I was able to use the back for the front which us very clear. I will double check the seams. I just built a stand so I'm going forward. I think they grabbed and lifted where its cracked on top.
 

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I'm sure you've found a solution to your tank issue by now? I'm actually tagging in because I'm curious as to how some members are saying "structurally damaged"? I see the big crack on the top deck. I'd use Weld-On #4 and call it a day. And the front display scratches I'm not sure how deep, but structurally, they should be fine except for being an eyesore. Surely a tank that big is minimally 3/8" -1/2" thick? Acrylic is amazing strong! Now, directly below the top fracture, in that corner, is it spidering away on each side? Use the Weld-On #4. It's a miracle worker!
To all...I'm not saying your wrong, as I'm just curious to learn.
If that crack makes it way to any other pane it’s game over! Thr minute it hits the glue joint it will shoot down the next pane.
 
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hrdneglcry

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If that crack makes it way to any other pane it’s game over! Thr minute it hits the glue joint it will shoot down the next pane.
The tank is pre drill about 1/8" from the back of the glass. I'm not disputing you but asking if you chipped that 1/8" while pulling the heater out would the tank be useless. It seems rather precarious for them to drill it that close. Will weldon stop the crack or does it have to be drilled at the end? I'd be worried that to drill it might cause another fracture. Its the top of the tank that has the cracks not the sides or the bottom.
IMG_0940.jpeg
 
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hrdneglcry

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That tank isn’t worth the effort in my opinion to fix.. talking weeks of work to buff and that repair is sketchy as its structural.. with that being said if you got the time and don’t mind drill a hole in the end of that crack and laminate it with 3/8” acrylic on top and bottom with Weldon 40 or 42 and start sanding your life away to polish but in the end I don’t think you’ll be happy with the results.
Will it be tricky to drill a hole at the end? I do plan to use weld on and put acrylic over the crack. I worry drilling at the end of the crack might cause it to go to the seam.
 

piranhaman00

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Will it be tricky to drill a hole at the end? I do plan to use weld on and put acrylic over the crack. I worry drilling at the end of the crack might cause it to go to the seam.

Find a bit used to drill plastics and you will be fine.

For 150$ I would drop this project. Finding 180s is usually not difficult
 

Troylee

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Will it be tricky to drill a hole at the end? I do plan to use weld on and put acrylic over the crack. I worry drilling at the end of the crack might cause it to go to the seam.
Not really.. use a unibit aka step bit. Drill a 3/16 hole or so and fill it with glue when you attempt the patch
 
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hrdneglcry

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Find a bit used to drill plastics and you will be fine.

For 150$ I would drop this project. Finding 180s is usually not difficult
I am not worried. The seams are good. I can buff it with a wheel. Its kind of easy I saw a guy do it on youtube. Was rather easy but took some time. The fish will be happier. Around here 180s are not easy to find. For some reason too they are very heavy and need four guys. Years ago my buddy and I carried a very heavy glass 180 up and down two flights of stairs. My fish will be happier. Its really a decent tank. Even if I did nothing with the scratches I think I could live with it.
 
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Troylee

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The tank is pre drill about 1/8" from the back of the glass. I'm not disputing you but asking if you chipped that 1/8" while pulling the heater out would the tank be useless. It seems rather precarious for them to drill it that close. Will weldon stop the crack or does it have to be drilled at the end? I'd be worried that to drill it might cause another fracture. Its the top of the tank that has the cracks not the sides or the bottom.
IMG_0940.jpeg
Missed this sorry… yeah that’s not the best place to drill a hole but it seems it has held up.. I personally like to leave more meat between the walls and euros when I’m building tanks just for good measure! To answer your question a chip is more different than a crack and your heater would bust before that plastic did it’s much stronger.
 

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I bought a used 180g acrylic. I did not take a good enough look at it evidently because I see many deep scratches. The owner said whatever scratches is has are not visible when its filled. Some of these have algae in them so I don't see how that could be true. Before I build a stand I'm wondering if I should get away from this tank or try to fix the scratches or live with it. The top of the tank is likemany acrylics with just small openings so I'm not even sure how to get in there. The top piece has two cracks but I assume that is ok. I could use some tips because this is my first large acrylic aquarium. I think I got ripped off maybe although I got it for $150. I had a 60 g acrylic with no scratches. Also including a pic of one of the cracks on top. You can also make the two out in large pic of it on the floor. Help please.
IMG_0931.jpeg
IMG_0933.jpeg IMG_0934.jpeg IMG_0935.jpeg IMG_0932.jpeg IMG_0936.jpeg
Check out mightymagnets scratch removal kit. https://mightymagnets.com/product-category/scratch-removal-kits/. I had scratches in my acrylic tank, and these worked great. You will need their magnet to get it to work, which I recommend anyway. They are NOT cheap, but very powerful. I actually have two of them. Best magnet I have ever seen.
 
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hrdneglcry

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Here's the tank so far. I bought the mighty magnets for the scratches and I used weldon 40 and 3/8" acrylic for the top cracks and dilled the ends.


IMG_0992.jpeg
 

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