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I posted this in the Dino thread but wanted to create a thread of my own detailing exactly what I did to defeat this scourge.
I BEAT DINOS!!!
It was not especially hard to do but I did need the right equipment and a multi pronged approach.
3 day blackouts
Diatomaceous earth filter (optional but recommended)
Dr Tim's Dino recipe (Dr Tim's Dr Tim's Refresh / Dr. Tim's Waste Away)
Dr Tim's waste away gel (Optional but recommended)
The regiment looks like this:
3 day blackout with U.V. (while aggressively blowing off rock and aggressively turning and disturbing the sandbed)
•
Employ Diatom Filters (Optional)
.
Beneficial bacteria dosing
•
3 day blackout with Dr Tim's Refresh (No UV)
•
Dr Tim's Waste Away liquid (No UV)
•
Dr Tim's Waste Away Gel
•
Redeployment of U.V.
1st thing was a PROPERLY SIZED, PROPERLY PLUMBED UV Sterilizer with the CORRECT flow.
I can not stress this enough.
You absolutely NEED to have all 3 of the requirements for a UV Sterilizer met in order for it to work.
I have a 180 gallon display and I use a Pentair aquatics smart UV 40w. UV Sterilizer. I use a Jeabo DCP 15000 pump to run it with 1 inch plumbing. Anything smaller than 1 inch plumbing WILL NOT WORK because you will NOT get the needed flow through the UV.
Here is the flow chart...
Put the pump IN THE DISPLAY on the sand bed or no more than 1 inch above the sand bed. Have the UV in a closed loop within the display both pulling from the display and dumping treated water back to the display.
It should look something like this. (Don't mind the mess. Pay attention to the set up of the UV)
3 day total blackout while using UV.
I have the feed pump in the tank and the return in the tank creating a closed loop. Pump is a Jeabo DCP15000. Pump is about a 1/2 inch above the sandbed. PVC pipe goes from pump to top of tank (about 25 inches) through 2 90° elbows forming a "U" and down about 6ft. to the UV.
The UV is laying horizontally on the floor in front of the tank. Water goes through the UV then back up about 6ft of PVC pipe then through 2 90° elbows forming a "U" to return water to the tank.
I am flowing 1019 gph through the UV according to apex flow meter. The UV calls for between 943 - 1574 gph to deal with algae, bacteria and dinos.
I use a Tunze 6105 on full blast to blow the rocks, sand and all surfaces. I put the pump right up to the rocks and make the biggest mess I can getting everything in the water column so it can go through the UV.
I have 4 Marineland Magnum polishing internal filters. Each rated for up to 97 gal tank / 290 gph. These filters will run Diatomaceous earth powder to mechanically filter dinos out.
Immediately after the 3 day blackout...
Deploy Diatom filters while continuing to aggressively blow off rocks and aggressively disturb sand bed with continued use of UV.
If not using Diatom filter, simply continue to aggressively blow off rocks and aggressively disturb sand bed with continued use of UV.
Do this for 3 days using normal light schedule.
After the 3 day period
Start Dr. Tim's Dino treatment which consists of another 3 day blackout while using Dr. Tim's Refresh then using Dr. Tim's waste Away. FOLLOW DIRECTIONS and complete the entire regiment.
Once complete with Dr. Tim's dino regiment...
Do the whole thing over again just to make sure you have knocked them OUT!
This is what I was dealing with and what I defeated.
This stuff was EVERYWHERE and was killing corals. It was much worse than what you see in these pics.
Now the tank looks like this...
A few months later...
The UV is still in operation and still getting the correct flow but there was no way to plumb it the way I would have liked so I ended up with this.
It's still effective but not nearly as effective as having the closed loop from display to display.
I am happy to report that I am STILL Dino FREE!!!!
Just so you know, this is not my 1st fight with dinos. Last battle I had was a 5 year battle on my old 110 gallon reef. DInos won.
The war I lost...
I raised nitrates and phosphates. (No good)
I used UV but did not know I was using it improperly. (No good)
Blackouts (knock them back but not good enough on its own)
Vibrant dosing. (No good)
MB7 dosing. (No good)
Peroxide dosing. (No good)
Silicate dosing. (No good)
Stupidly high flow. (No good)
Low flow. (No good)
No flow. (No good)
Sea cucumbers. (No good)
Sand sifters. (No good)
Leaving sand alone. (No good)
Surface siphoning sandbed. (No good)
Deep and aggressively disturbing sandbed with heavy mechanical filtration using 5 micron socks changed every day. (Better but no good)
Feeding tank. (No good)
Starving tank. (No good)
Increase pods. (No good)
Beefed up fuge chaeto. (No good)
Removing fuge chaeto. (No good)
Shorten light schedule. (No good)
Decrease light intensity. (No good)
Increase light intensity. (No good)
Change light fixtures. (No good)
Sacred Indian dino dance. (No good)
9mm. (No good)
.45 ACP. (No good)
12ga. (No good)
Photon torpedo straight from the Starship Enterprise. (No good)
People have tried to balance out their tank by introducing other things like diatoms or other pest algae. The problem is, once your tank has dinos, That is your new balance.
You HAVE to get dinos under control first in order to achieve the balance you are looking for.
Adding silicate will not get you where you are trying to go.
You wind up having additional problems to deal with and fight while still trying to fight the dinos. You end up knocking your tank Further out of balance.
Check out my build thread for more detail on the fight against dinos.
Good luck in YOUR fight against these prehistoric monsters!
I BEAT DINOS!!!
It was not especially hard to do but I did need the right equipment and a multi pronged approach.
3 day blackouts
Diatomaceous earth filter (optional but recommended)
Dr Tim's Dino recipe (Dr Tim's Dr Tim's Refresh / Dr. Tim's Waste Away)
Dr Tim's waste away gel (Optional but recommended)
The regiment looks like this:
3 day blackout with U.V. (while aggressively blowing off rock and aggressively turning and disturbing the sandbed)
•
Employ Diatom Filters (Optional)
.
Beneficial bacteria dosing
•
3 day blackout with Dr Tim's Refresh (No UV)
•
Dr Tim's Waste Away liquid (No UV)
•
Dr Tim's Waste Away Gel
•
Redeployment of U.V.
1st thing was a PROPERLY SIZED, PROPERLY PLUMBED UV Sterilizer with the CORRECT flow.
I can not stress this enough.
You absolutely NEED to have all 3 of the requirements for a UV Sterilizer met in order for it to work.
I have a 180 gallon display and I use a Pentair aquatics smart UV 40w. UV Sterilizer. I use a Jeabo DCP 15000 pump to run it with 1 inch plumbing. Anything smaller than 1 inch plumbing WILL NOT WORK because you will NOT get the needed flow through the UV.
Here is the flow chart...
Put the pump IN THE DISPLAY on the sand bed or no more than 1 inch above the sand bed. Have the UV in a closed loop within the display both pulling from the display and dumping treated water back to the display.
It should look something like this. (Don't mind the mess. Pay attention to the set up of the UV)
3 day total blackout while using UV.
I have the feed pump in the tank and the return in the tank creating a closed loop. Pump is a Jeabo DCP15000. Pump is about a 1/2 inch above the sandbed. PVC pipe goes from pump to top of tank (about 25 inches) through 2 90° elbows forming a "U" and down about 6ft. to the UV.
The UV is laying horizontally on the floor in front of the tank. Water goes through the UV then back up about 6ft of PVC pipe then through 2 90° elbows forming a "U" to return water to the tank.
I am flowing 1019 gph through the UV according to apex flow meter. The UV calls for between 943 - 1574 gph to deal with algae, bacteria and dinos.
I use a Tunze 6105 on full blast to blow the rocks, sand and all surfaces. I put the pump right up to the rocks and make the biggest mess I can getting everything in the water column so it can go through the UV.
I have 4 Marineland Magnum polishing internal filters. Each rated for up to 97 gal tank / 290 gph. These filters will run Diatomaceous earth powder to mechanically filter dinos out.
Immediately after the 3 day blackout...
Deploy Diatom filters while continuing to aggressively blow off rocks and aggressively disturb sand bed with continued use of UV.
If not using Diatom filter, simply continue to aggressively blow off rocks and aggressively disturb sand bed with continued use of UV.
Do this for 3 days using normal light schedule.
After the 3 day period
Start Dr. Tim's Dino treatment which consists of another 3 day blackout while using Dr. Tim's Refresh then using Dr. Tim's waste Away. FOLLOW DIRECTIONS and complete the entire regiment.
Once complete with Dr. Tim's dino regiment...
Do the whole thing over again just to make sure you have knocked them OUT!
This is what I was dealing with and what I defeated.
This stuff was EVERYWHERE and was killing corals. It was much worse than what you see in these pics.
Now the tank looks like this...
A few months later...
The UV is still in operation and still getting the correct flow but there was no way to plumb it the way I would have liked so I ended up with this.
It's still effective but not nearly as effective as having the closed loop from display to display.
I am happy to report that I am STILL Dino FREE!!!!
Just so you know, this is not my 1st fight with dinos. Last battle I had was a 5 year battle on my old 110 gallon reef. DInos won.
The war I lost...
I raised nitrates and phosphates. (No good)
I used UV but did not know I was using it improperly. (No good)
Blackouts (knock them back but not good enough on its own)
Vibrant dosing. (No good)
MB7 dosing. (No good)
Peroxide dosing. (No good)
Silicate dosing. (No good)
Stupidly high flow. (No good)
Low flow. (No good)
No flow. (No good)
Sea cucumbers. (No good)
Sand sifters. (No good)
Leaving sand alone. (No good)
Surface siphoning sandbed. (No good)
Deep and aggressively disturbing sandbed with heavy mechanical filtration using 5 micron socks changed every day. (Better but no good)
Feeding tank. (No good)
Starving tank. (No good)
Increase pods. (No good)
Beefed up fuge chaeto. (No good)
Removing fuge chaeto. (No good)
Shorten light schedule. (No good)
Decrease light intensity. (No good)
Increase light intensity. (No good)
Change light fixtures. (No good)
Sacred Indian dino dance. (No good)
9mm. (No good)
.45 ACP. (No good)
12ga. (No good)
Photon torpedo straight from the Starship Enterprise. (No good)
People have tried to balance out their tank by introducing other things like diatoms or other pest algae. The problem is, once your tank has dinos, That is your new balance.
You HAVE to get dinos under control first in order to achieve the balance you are looking for.
Adding silicate will not get you where you are trying to go.
You wind up having additional problems to deal with and fight while still trying to fight the dinos. You end up knocking your tank Further out of balance.
Check out my build thread for more detail on the fight against dinos.
Good luck in YOUR fight against these prehistoric monsters!
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