Huge outbreak of unknown algae

Dansters

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I have had this tank for over a year and a half. I recently changed the aqua scape with Marco rock around two weeks ago. I went on vacation for 5 days and it was white before vacation and now it’s filled with some sort of algae. I had hair algae in the past, so I assume it’s partly this. But some of it is like neon orange and looks way different from hair algae. Any input would be appreciated. I will be testing phosphates tomorrow because I usually go to my LFS for testing, but I just bought the Hanna tester and it comes tomorrow.
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vetteguy53081

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I have had this tank for over a year and a half. I recently changed the aqua scape with Marco rock around two weeks ago. I went on vacation for 5 days and it was white before vacation and now it’s filled with some sort of algae. I had hair algae in the past, so I assume it’s partly this. But some of it is like neon orange and looks way different from hair algae. Any input would be appreciated. I will be testing phosphates tomorrow because I usually go to my LFS for testing, but I just bought the Hanna tester and it comes tomorrow.
7A58C5B6-EAC9-4280-884E-31ADA8A24C77.jpeg
7180DA52-282C-47F2-9C8B-6322918C4239.jpeg
EDBCE48A-DF9F-4FCE-B096-ABE7982190C0.jpeg
9ABFF340-8DA4-43D4-A7D4-6325B9B02895.jpeg
Looks like hair algae and cyano but im not ruling out dino.
What is your current phosphate and nitrate levels?
Are you able to blow some of it loose?
Is it less in the morning and more visible throughout the day?
 

Reefer Matt

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I suggest every Reefer get a microscope for the identification of algae and organisms. When I first started, I Googled "Cyanobacteria microscope pics", etc. until I learned what things were. Dino are usually very obvious by their shape,imo, and can be ruled out or confirmed quickly with a scope. A scope can save you money and time with the proper id of an outbreak.
 

Budman93

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I have had this tank for over a year and a half. I recently changed the aqua scape with Marco rock around two weeks ago. I went on vacation for 5 days and it was white before vacation and now it’s filled with some sort of algae. I had hair algae in the past, so I assume it’s partly this. But some of it is like neon orange and looks way different from hair algae. Any input would be appreciated. I will be testing phosphates tomorrow because I usually go to my LFS for testing, but I just bought the Hanna tester and it comes tomorrow.
7A58C5B6-EAC9-4280-884E-31ADA8A24C77.jpeg
7180DA52-282C-47F2-9C8B-6322918C4239.jpeg
EDBCE48A-DF9F-4FCE-B096-ABE7982190C0.jpeg
9ABFF340-8DA4-43D4-A7D4-6325B9B02895.jpeg
Looks like GHA and some cyano. If it was dinos it would usually have a bubbly mucus texture. Do the red parts easily come off with a turkey baster? If so that's cyano. A turbo snail would make short work of the GHA. The cyano will be a bit more difficult to clear but I'd try increasing flow, cutting back lighting, doing consistent water changes and if all else else fails chemiclean.
 
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Dansters

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Looks like hair algae and cyano but im not ruling out dino.
What is your current phosphate and nitrate levels?
Are you able to blow some of it loose?
Is it less in the morning and more visible throughout the day?
First day back so I’m not sure yet. Getting a Hanna phosphate checker tomorrow so I’ll do that then, but my nitrates are around 5-10 (I have an api test so it’s hard to tell the difference between 0-10). The brown stuff blows off really easily. The bright red or orange stuff doesn’t though.
 

vetteguy53081

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First day back so I’m not sure yet. Getting a Hanna phosphate checker tomorrow so I’ll do that then, but my nitrates are around 5-10 (I have an api test so it’s hard to tell the difference between 0-10). The brown stuff blows off really easily. The bright red or orange stuff doesn’t though.
Preliminarily, may be cyano but see where your Phos is at.
Is it less in the morning and more visible throughout the day?

Snot, bubble does not confirm dino but suggests it.
 
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Dansters

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Preliminarily, may be cyano but see where your Phos is at.
Is it less in the morning and more visible throughout the day?

Snot, bubble does not confirm dino but suggests it.
I blew on the red stuff a bit more and it’s coming off. There’s no bubbles or anything. I will find out tomorrow if it’s less in the morning or not because I got back from vacation today.
 

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If you changed all the rock with new then you have caused your tank to cycle again. Watch ammonia levels or you will lose everything.
 

vetteguy53081

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would it be ok to add zoas during this outbreak?
i would not as cyano is a bacteria until youve reduced the issue. Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high. One effective approach is to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 3-5 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the 3-5 days, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

What causes this?
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development
 
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Dansters

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i would not as cyano is a bacteria until youve reduced the issue. Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high. One effective approach is to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 3-5 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the 3-5 days, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

What causes this?
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development
Definitely the uncured rock. Should I remove it, or just wait till it goes away?
 

vetteguy53081

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Definitely the uncured rock. Should I remove it, or just wait till it goes away?
It will subside. You can rinse it if you wish.
 

vetteguy53081

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How long do you think it will take to subside and if I do rinse it will it just come back. Sorry for asking all these questions
Depends on amount of light as light is fuel for cyano (you may notice its less in the morning and resumes its appearance during the day). Also will be based on your no3 and po4 levels
 
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Dansters

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Depends on amount of light as light is fuel for cyano (you may notice its less in the morning and resumes its appearance during the day). Also will be based on your no3 and po4 levels
Phosphate was 0.27 and it does look like it shows up less in the morning
 

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Whatever it is I had it before I siphoned out everything that I could.
 

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