How Would One Connect Two Systems In Different Rooms?

[EvanStagnaro]

So I want to start a frag tank to grow out some frags and play around with different corals without the burden of them being on an ugly frag rack in my display tank. I currently have a 180 gallon fairly well established tank (minimal coral, but stable for nearly 3 years now and seeing some small coral start to thrive). I would like to build a small frag tank, however it would not be in the same room as my display tank as it would be more of an eye sore. It would definitely be small because I don't have that many corals to frag or much of a use for a very large tank.

I know that with a larger the system it is easier it is to keep parameters from swinging, but instead of adding a sump and extra water volume to a separate system for frags, I was thinking of tying the two together somehow. And also being that I am looking to frag for my main tank, keeping the parameters the same (because its the same water) would be best for the coral movement times... Or at least I think...

I am trying however to determine the best way to connect the two tanks. I would be putting some tubing or piping in the wall behind my tank (I already have an access and pull line through to the attic) to connect the two tanks), however I'm worried about overflow in my display sump, or in the frag tank due to different water levels. I have thought of ways my APEX can control levels and shut off the pumps in between the two if levels change in one of the tanks, however I am worried about if there is a power outage and some sort of siphon starting - or if there is just a failure of the computer. Ideally the frag tank is at a higher level than my DT sump is so I don't have to be on my hands and knees to work in the frag tank. This could theoretically siphon out the frag tank into the sump (or part of it) during a power outage without proper precautions.

Just curios if anyone has done this, or something similar and what fail-safes you have in place to prevent overflows between the two.

Im not thinking the flow between the two needs to be crazy quick, just as long as the water is generally exchanging. I don't want to use a DoS or other dosing pump though - seems like too little water exchange. I think the temp would fluctuate too much with that little flow - but maybe not... The DoS or other dosing pump does provide for a "lock" though in terms of a siphon. It wouldn't really allow for flow when it's shut off and has no power, it just feels like to slow of a flow rate to really consider them the same system.

One other thought is that my frag tank area can almost act like an external sump as well - can add a heater, chiller, dosing, etc. to that tank which is significantly easier to do and is in less of a confined space than my sump so it would be easier to service.

I know the whole thing seems like a lot of work, and it might be too much, but the process of implementing this is enjoyable as well, not just the outcome, so I'm hoping maybe someone is able to provide some insight. Even if its not specific to them having connected two tanks, but maybe having a "remote" sump not directly under their DT.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Asm481]

You have a sump under he 180, correct? Plumb through the wall from the new frag tank to the sump under the 180 just like any tank. Keep your returns high and drill siphon breaks high so the sump doesn't overflow in a power stoppage. Running through an attic would not be attempted by me ever. Your frag tank can be at any height you wish.

 

[DCR]

Just elevate the frag tank well above the sump with an overflow box and run the supply and return lines through the walls and it should work fine, especially if your return flow to the frag is not that large. You should be able to eliminate siphoning from the frag tank with an appropriate overflow box on the frag tank. I would have at least two drains (Herbie). and the drain piping from the frag should ideally be relatively short with no pockets that will trap air. You will need to make sure your current sump can handle the additional drain down from the overflow of the frag tank.

 

[littlefishy]

Pump a small amount to the frag tank, which is elevated above the sump. Overflowbox or drilled return can only drain to the correct baseline height in frag tank in a power outage. Great idea for essentially extending your mature tank to grow frags.

 

[EvanStagnaro]

You have a sump under he 180, correct? Plumb through the wall from the new frag tank to the sump under the 180 just like any tank. Keep your returns high and drill siphon breaks high so the sump doesn't overflow in a power stoppage. Running through an attic would not be attempted by me ever. Your frag tank can be at any height you wish.

Yeah, I have a sump under my 180. I pretty much have to go through the attic (or at least over a doorframe) due to the frag tank not being on the other side of the wall of my DT. It's a room over and no level direct line. I would also not want to tear out drywall for this as then I have a very large project on my hands, and I'm not a fan of finishing drywall...lol.

Curious as to why you would not go through the attic? I have an auto water change system that I run though the attic and have had no problems at all with it. The tubing is insulated up there so it isn't (in theory) getting too hot or cold as the water travels through. Just curious as to why you would never attempt?

 

[EvanStagnaro]

Just elevate the frag tank well above the sump with an overflow box and run the supply and return lines through the walls and it should work fine, especially if your return flow to the frag is not that large. You should be able to eliminate siphoning from the frag tank with an appropriate overflow box on the frag tank. I would have at least two drains (Herbie). and the drain piping from the frag should ideally be relatively short with no pockets that will trap air. You will need to make sure your current sump can handle the additional drain down from the overflow of the frag tank.

Thank you! I think maybe I am not understanding something, or I communicated incorrectly (I think that's it). The lines between the tanks need to move vertically (above the tanks) due to a doorframe in the way of the rooms. There is no direct level line between the main DT and where the frag tank will go. I think you're expecting gravity to let water flow from the frag into the sump, which would be ideal, but first before it can go into the sump, sadly it needs to go up a few feet...

Maybe i'm just not understanding some basic flow? Thanks!

 

[EvanStagnaro]

Pump a small amount to the frag tank, which is elevated above the sump. Overflowbox or drilled return can only drain to the correct baseline height in frag tank in a power outage. Great idea for essentially extending your mature tank to grow frags.

Thanks for your reply! I would just do that and just let it overflow, but unfortunately, the tubing between the tanks needs to go over a doorframe which is higher than the water level in both tanks and obviously the sump. So im thinking a pump is necessary in both directions no matter what?

 

[DCR]

I was afraid you might be talking about pumping both supply and return from your original post. That is almost sure to cause an overflow of either the frag tank or the sump at some point. I would set up two separate systems before doing that.

 

[EvanStagnaro]

I was afraid you might be talking about pumping both supply and return from your original post. That is almost sure to cause an overflow of either the frag tank or the sump at some point. I would set up two separate systems before doing that.

That's kind of the reply I was expecting to get. Curious if anyone has done something like this though and how it's gone, and if they have had proper precautions in place to prevent overflows. But yeah, I can very much see how overflows would easily be possible. Thanks for your reply!

 

[littlefishy]

DCR 100%.
You couldn't just drill a hole in the drywall or baseboard and run a tube or pipe? Drywall is very easy to repair laterand if the base has a flat spot in the profile, it's even easier than drywall.