How to get square cuts on PVC?

[Cantusaurus]

Hey, I am planning the plumbing on my tank upgrade I am doing. My IM 50 INT (internal overflow)

I have all the parts I need. And I am borrowing some Husky 2" PVC cutters from a friend. I also replaced the blade just in case.
I've practiced and it's fairly easy, but I can't get the cuts perfectly square. Some of the best cuts are just slightly off, it's difficult to see, but they are not perfectly flat or square.
I don't think sanding it will get it perfectly flat, wouldn't it just remove burrs (which there aren't any) I will sand it a bit at the end regardless.

Should I just use a utility knife or some sort of blade and sort of cut the areas a bit to get rid of the imperfections? And just sand it at the end? Or do you need to sand the hell out of it/use a sanding tool to get the little edges to all be flat.
I constantly hear how making the pipe square is essential to ensure longevity and less chance of leaks quicker down the line, so I wanna do my best to get this right.


If anyone has tips that would be great. Thanks

 

[zheka757]

you over thinking it! Im assuming you want a perfect cut so you'll have no problems with your plumbing job, you think all the plumbers cut the pipes perfectly in house builds? and house use 40-70psi pressure, and no problems,

 

[FL_Reef]

I used my chop saw with a fine tooth blade and just sanded the burrs off

 

[Herbtaker]

Hey, I am planning the plumbing on my tank upgrade I am doing. My IM 50 INT (internal overflow)

I have all the parts I need. And I am borrowing some Husky 2" PVC cutters from a friend. I also replaced the blade just in case.
I've practiced and it's fairly easy, but I can't get the cuts perfectly square. Some of the best cuts are just slightly off, it's difficult to see, but they are not perfectly flat or square.
I don't think sanding it will get it perfectly flat, wouldn't it just remove burrs (which there aren't any) I will sand it a bit at the end regardless.

Should I just use a utility knife or some sort of blade and sort of cut the areas a bit to get rid of the imperfections? And just sand it at the end? Or do you need to sand the hell out of it/use a sanding tool to get the little edges to all be flat.
I constantly hear how making the pipe square is essential to ensure longevity and less chance of leaks quicker down the line, so I wanna do my best to get this right.


If anyone has tips that would be great. Thanks

Dental floss cuts right through.

 

[Gtinnel]

I’ve never had cuts that weren’t perfectly perpendicular cause an issue with a joint. I’ve almost always used a miter saw to make the cuts on mine though so it cuts them close to square.

I would imagine that you could likely be off by a fairly decent amount and it wouldn’t hurt anything.

 

[BigTimeIssues]

One of those new ryobi or Dewalt battery powered miter saws would be absolutely perfect!

Other than that the cuts don't have to be perfect. You'll be fine..

 

[flashsmith]

I own an irrigation company. Aquarium plumbing really doesn't have any kind of pressure on the pipes at all. When it's all glued up even you won't be able to tell your cuts aren't perfect. The pipe will stop against the socket inside the fitting and that will be that. Now if you were running 120 psi with a 200 hp pump on an 8" line you want it to be flush.

 

[Smite]

A quality set of pvc cutters can help a ton but as others have said it doesn’t matter that much for our application.

 

[Gp!]

I got the Ryobi pvc cutter. Not really necessary but really works well. I'd get it again. Nice cut every time

 

[homer1475]

I used my chop saw with a fine tooth blade and just sanded the burrs off

This +1

Even when we remodeled and had to run all new drain lines in my house. Miter saw, with a fine tooth blade ever time.

 

[Cantusaurus]

Thank you everyone for your advice. It seems I am overthinking it. I appreciate the advice and experiences shared.

My other question is...
With the bulkheads you have to glue the pvc into them the same way with other fittings? I'm guessing it's essential underneath the bulkhead, but is it still necessary above? I feel that's kind of a pain to glue it and put it in the overflow while not making a mess.

 

[Gp!]

With the bulkheads you have to glue the pvc into them the same way with other fittings? I'm guessing it's essential underneath the bulkhead, but is it still necessary above? I feel that's kind of a pain to glue it and put it in the overflow while not making a mess.

Probably not but it depends on what you are doing with it. Threaded bulkheads are nice because of this problem

 

[Rmckoy]

Hey, I am planning the plumbing on my tank upgrade I am doing. My IM 50 INT (internal overflow)

I have all the parts I need. And I am borrowing some Husky 2" PVC cutters from a friend. I also replaced the blade just in case.
I've practiced and it's fairly easy, but I can't get the cuts perfectly square. Some of the best cuts are just slightly off, it's difficult to see, but they are not perfectly flat or square.
I don't think sanding it will get it perfectly flat, wouldn't it just remove burrs (which there aren't any) I will sand it a bit at the end regardless.

Should I just use a utility knife or some sort of blade and sort of cut the areas a bit to get rid of the imperfections? And just sand it at the end? Or do you need to sand the hell out of it/use a sanding tool to get the little edges to all be flat.
I constantly hear how making the pipe square is essential to ensure longevity and less chance of leaks quicker down the line, so I wanna do my best to get this right.


If anyone has tips that would be great. Thanks

Use a chop saw or mitre saw . Set the saw to 90° and cut
Hold the 2” pipe as it will try to turn when the blade first starts cutting

 

[CrunchyBananas]

You’re overthinking it, I think. My full time job is installing tanks, and hand snips almost never cut straight, it’s never made a difference or caused a leak. Just fully seat the pipe in the fitting and you’re more than good.

You glue into bulkheads like you do any other fitting, just don’t use primer, it melts the abs the bulkhead is made out of. Also, do not glue the stand pipes inside, it’s important to be able to pop them out for adjusting or maintenance.

 

[ReefCheef]

Hey, I am planning the plumbing on my tank upgrade I am doing. My IM 50 INT (internal overflow)

I have all the parts I need. And I am borrowing some Husky 2" PVC cutters from a friend. I also replaced the blade just in case.
I've practiced and it's fairly easy, but I can't get the cuts perfectly square. Some of the best cuts are just slightly off, it's difficult to see, but they are not perfectly flat or square.
I don't think sanding it will get it perfectly flat, wouldn't it just remove burrs (which there aren't any) I will sand it a bit at the end regardless.

Should I just use a utility knife or some sort of blade and sort of cut the areas a bit to get rid of the imperfections? And just sand it at the end? Or do you need to sand the hell out of it/use a sanding tool to get the little edges to all be flat.
I constantly hear how making the pipe square is essential to ensure longevity and less chance of leaks quicker down the line, so I wanna do my best to get this right.


If anyone has tips that would be great. Thanks

If you’re using a hand pvc cutter they will never be perfectly square. It doesnt matter. If you keep the blade super sharp you will get close enough. Like others have said some iteration of a chopsaw is the only way to get a flush cut. Definitely not worth buying or even renting one to plumb a 50gal. Maybe a 5000 gallon. Youre never going to be running enough pressure through your pipes to cause even a tiny bit of concern.

happy reefing

 

[Cantusaurus]

You’re overthinking it, I think. My full time job is installing tanks, and hand snips almost never cut straight, it’s never made a difference or caused a leak. Just fully seat the pipe in the fitting and you’re more than good.

You glue into bulkheads like you do any other fitting, just don’t use primer, it melts the abs the bulkhead is made out of. Also, do not glue the stand pipes inside, it’s important to be able to pop them out for adjusting or maintenance.

View attachment 2948713

Ok, thanks so much! I'm glad I asked, because I was going to use primer when connecting the pipes to the inside of the bulkhead. Also I plan on only using 1 emergency on my tank. The tank came with all the bulkheads and plumbing above the bulkheads, but nothing beneath. I don't really want two emergencies or use it as a trickle filter since I am installing a red sea filter roller, and I don't want to complicate things by making it so 2 pipes connect to one for the filter roller. Should I just glue a stopper into the bulkhead? Or put glue a pipe and put a end cap on top so water doesn't flow through?
Also would I still not want to put primer for whatever I use to block the bulkhead?

(The Innovative Marine INT filtration)

 

[CrunchyBananas]

Ok, thanks so much! I'm glad I asked, because I was going to use primer when connecting the pipes to the inside of the bulkhead. Also I plan on only using 1 emergency on my tank. The tank came with all the bulkheads and plumbing above the bulkheads, but nothing beneath. I don't really want two emergencies or use it as a trickle filter since I am installing a red sea filter roller, and I don't want to complicate things by making it so 2 pipes connect to one for the filter roller. Should I just glue a stopper into the bulkhead? Or put glue a pipe and put a end cap on top so water doesn't flow through?
Also would I still not want to put primer for whatever I use to block the bulkhead?
View attachment 2948743
(The Innovative Marine INT filtration)

In a situation like that, I glue about 8-12” stick of pvc with a cap on the end underneath, and then put an unglued stand pipe inside. I have the pvc like that just in case I want to use it for whatever reason, I can drain the over flow and tie it to whatever.

 

[zheka757]

You glue into bulkheads like you do any other fitting, just don’t use primer, it melts the abs the bulkhead is made out of. Also, do not glue the stand pipes inside, it’s important to be able to pop them out for adjusting or maintenance.

View attachment 2948713

is that right? don't need to use primer? cause I hate how messy it looks mostly because of primer on my plumbing for the tank

 

[homer1475]

is that right? don't need to use primer? cause I hate how messy it looks mostly because of primer on my plumbing for the tank

Clear primer is your friend. Forget the purple stuff, that looks horrible dripping down the pipes.

Although in our application with very low pressure, yes primer is not needed. I still use it, just use the clear stuff so it can't be seen.

 

[Wasabiroot]

I own an irrigation company. Aquarium plumbing really doesn't have any kind of pressure on the pipes at all. When it's all glued up even you won't be able to tell your cuts aren't perfect. The pipe will stop against the socket inside the fitting and that will be that. Now if you were running 120 psi with a 200 hp pump on an 8" line you want it to be flush.

This is something I feel gets forgotten often in our hobby. Unless you are going for cosmetic plumbing (which is perfectly fine) it's just draining water or low powered pumps we use. Save yourself the headache in your next build.