How to get copepods to colonize?

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How do I get an established copepod colony in my aquarium.
When we got back into the hobby after a 10 year break, mandarin dragonets were one of our must have fish. We found a lot of information that we didn’t have during our early years in the hobby, and copepods and their importance was one of the first new revelations that we discovered. After purchasing copepods several times, we started culturing our own. This is how www.reefbysteele.com came to be. At that point we didn’t know that copepods could and would reproduce, becoming a stable food source for the other reef inhabitants.

Copepods are quite resilient and hardy. That being said there are best practices to get a solid population of copepods in your tank. There are also mistakes to avoid.

First and foremost is to begin by purchasing healthy pods from a reputable source. There are many companies you can choose from. Hopefully if you have questions they will respond to your requests and provide solid information. Seek a company that guarantees live arrival and service after the sale.

Next, ensure your tank is properly prepared. Although copepods are tough, too much ammonia can definitely eliminate them or at least seriously lessen their populations. This being said, they can be one of the first life forms that can be safely added to your tank, once your tank is cycled. Due to copepods natural environment, surviving in tidal pools, ship hulls as well as open water has allowed them to become tolerant of changing water parameters. Tigriopus are routinely found thriving in tidal pools which experience changing temperatures and salinity. Acartia pods are thought to originate in tropical waters, but are now found in waters all over the planet including arctic waters, this redistribution is largely attributed to transport in ships ballast waters. Some pods spend their lives floating and swimming in open waters, while others like the Tisbe spend their life benthic (crawling in the sand bed and rocks of the reef) and others such as the Apocyclops changes as they progress through their life stages. With the exception of very specialized aquariums, standard water parameters, temperatures, flow and lighting should accommodate most pods we encounter in the market currently.

Choosing the right copepod for your system is also important. Although any copepod colony is a plus for your tank, certain pods are better depending on the needs of the other tank inhabitants. Mandarins can spend their entire day picking benthic Tisbes and Apocyclops from the rock, while sand sifting gobies draw them out of the sifting sands. Dragon wrasses, anthias, pipefish and seahorses hunt their pods out of the water column, collecting Psuedo, Acartia, Tigriopus and Apocyclops as they endlessly cruise the tank or sway effortlessly from their perch attached to strands of macro algae with their coiled tail. Their mixed life stages makes the Apocyclops my number one pick.

How and when we introduce the copepods can play a major role in how well they survive the transition, which plays a role in successfully developing a colony as well. We strongly recommend adding the copepods to the aquarium with return pumps off, and flow pumps at least reduced. Also adding the copepods at least one hour after lights out, will lessen the impact of a feeding frenzy when adding them into a stocked reef. Due to their ability to withstand changes in water parameters, matching salinity is not as important as it is with the introduction of new fish. Bringing your copepods to room temperature is advised, floating the container to match tank temperatures is even better if possible. In a system with a refugium adding 1/4-3/4 of the contents of your order can allow the copepods to breed and multiply without being preyed upon, and they should find their way throughout the system naturally. Without a refugium, if allowed to seek shelter in the sand and rocks as described above, they can and should still be able to reproduce within your system.

IMG_6645.jpeg

Finally providing your copepods with nutritious food is another important step in reaching our colonization goals. Although nuisance algae, detritus and macro algae can provide a stable food source, there is no guarantee that what they eat will provide for their top health and survival, nor that it will ensure that the pods themselves will provide the best nutritional profile when they themselves are consumed. One solid way to assist in both their health and reproduction is by dosing live phytoplankton. A constant source and supply of phytoplankton provides the copepods with the amino acids, fatty acids, and vitamins they need to be at their peak health and nutritional value.

Even if you diligently pursue and execute each of these steps, you may still fail to establish a strong colony, at least on the first try. In these cases, adding additional copepods every two weeks to a month will greatly increase your odds. This can be especially helpful in tanks stocked with the above mentioned pod hunters. Due to the small size of many of the copepods, it can be difficult to determine the populations of copepods within our systems. Generally they are easiest to detect in areas where the glass is not the cleanest, as they will congregate in areas like the back glass where we don’t clear the film algae as often. Viewing these areas at night with a concentrate light beam is beneficial.

At www.reefbysteele.com we culture and ship copepods raised on phytoplankton rich in all the nutrients needed by your tank inhabitants. With 3 or 6 species copepod blends you are sure to find a product with the right species to settle nicely into your reef. And now is the perfect time, as you can take advantage of our current offer of double the pods where we add our Harpa pods to our standard blends adding another species to expand and strengthen the opportunity of successful colonization of your copepods.
 
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Reef By Steele

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Great writeup! But the title is a little confusing, It makes it sound like you’re asking how to colonize them, not giving detailed instructions on how to do that.
Thanks. It is a question I hear a lot. Maybe I should change the title to a period vs question mark? What do you think?
 

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Oh I have questions!
  1. Phyto and pod culturing systems seem relatively common, though I have never tried it myself. Can pods be setup in a sort of self filling + self draining container system where phyto is dripfed in and pods are pushed into the display tank for feeding? What in your experience could crash these sorts of setups?
  2. Can the various pod species be freely mixed or will one eventually out-compete the others?
  3. Is there much research and facts on the pros and cons of all those different phyto species? I've heard the ones the generate a "golden" colored water are super foods, for example.
 
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Oh I have questions!
  1. Phyto and pod culturing systems seem relatively common, though I have never tried it myself. Can pods be setup in a sort of self filling + self draining container system where phyto is dripfed in and pods are pushed into the display tank for feeding? What in your experience could crash these sorts of setups?
  2. Can the various pod species be freely mixed or will one eventually out-compete the others?
  3. Is there much research and facts on the pros and cons of all those different phyto species? I've heard the ones the generate a "golden" colored water are super foods, for example.
I think a person could possibly set up a system using a doser but not 100% sure how it would work. I saw a set up somewhere here where they set up an auto feeding system in a small fridge. One issue would be setting it up so that after drawing pods from the culture, you would maybe need to have the ability to run RODI through that line to clear the pods so they don’t die in the tubing.

Everything I have read is that mixing pods can and probably will develop into one species taking over. For that I would recommend Apocyclops as they are in my opinion the most versatile. Then maybe gay a blend a few times a year to augment them.

The golds and browns are generally higher in HUFA, highly unsaturated fatty acids, but most of them have amino acids, protein and other nutrients to make the pods more nutritious. A blend covers the spectrum, if culturing your own, I like Chlorella as it just seems to produce well for me. But if space allows, add a diatom like Thalassiosira weissflogii as they are easier than Isochrysis or Pavlova. With proper technique they can be cultured well also.
 

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I'm starting a refugium right now. I got copepods, amphipods and grass shrimp. Can I toss a bit of all of them into the refugium? Or just copepods only?

Thank you!
 
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I'm starting a refugium right now. I got copepods, amphipods and grass shrimp. Can I toss a bit of all of them into the refugium? Or just copepods only?

Thank you!
Copepods and amphipods for sure. Have some ricks or at least a good amount of macroalgae to give them a home.

I am unsure on the grass shrimp as I have always just kept them separate as feeders when I get new fish to ensure they survive well.
 
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I'm starting a refugium right now. I got copepods, amphipods and grass shrimp. Can I toss a bit of all of them into the refugium? Or just copepods only?

Thank you!
Depending on how many. I think they are mostly herbivores. Might double check that. If omnivores I would keep the grass shrimp out of the fuge to keep them from eating the amphipods. But if mostly herbivore might put just a few in there to see if you can get them to breed in there.
 

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certain larger pods definitely like piles of mulm and detritus …
my theory is those spots are just collection point due to tank currents and a lot of it is actual “ biologically inert” habitat from urchin spines and poo, cast off shells, carpaces , chunks of coraline, et …
but those piles also collect food …
again, just my sample but my observations is that certain pods prefer this type of habitat
 

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Depending on how many. I think they are mostly herbivores. Might double check that. If omnivores I would keep the grass shrimp out of the fuge to keep them from eating the amphipods. But if mostly herbivore might put just a few in there to see if you can get them to breed in there.
The shrimp is alive and well and breeding in the tank! I got more pods from you so my tank is exploding with pods! Dosing phyto to keep the population up but so far the shrimp isn't attacking anything other than green hair algae and some leftover mysis here and there.

None of my community nano fishes are eating the shrimp! I have tons! haha love them. Lil saltwater neos
 
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The shrimp is alive and well and breeding in the tank! I got more pods from you so my tank is exploding with pods! Dosing phyto to keep the population up but so far the shrimp isn't attacking anything other than green hair algae and some leftover mysis here and there.

None of my community nano fishes are eating the shrimp! I have tons! haha love them. Lil saltwater neos
That is awesome. Glad the shrimp are working out as you had hoped. Also thanks for the shout out on our pods. Hearing from happy customers make @Ocean_Queenie and I feel really great about what we are doing.
 

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How do I get an established copepod colony in my aquarium.
When we got back into the hobby after a 10 year break, mandarin dragonets were one of our must have fish. We found a lot of information that we didn’t have during our early years in the hobby, and copepods and their importance was one of the first new revelations that we discovered. After purchasing copepods several times, we started culturing our own. This is how www.reefbysteele.com came to be. At that point we didn’t know that copepods could and would reproduce, becoming a stable food source for the other reef inhabitants.

Copepods are quite resilient and hardy. That being said there are best practices to get a solid population of copepods in your tank. There are also mistakes to avoid.

First and foremost is to begin by purchasing healthy pods from a reputable source. There are many companies you can choose from. Hopefully if you have questions they will respond to your requests and provide solid information. Seek a company that guarantees live arrival and service after the sale.

Next, ensure your tank is properly prepared. Although copepods are tough, too much ammonia can definitely eliminate them or at least seriously lessen their populations. This being said, they can be one of the first life forms that can be safely added to your tank, once your tank is cycled. Due to copepods natural environment, surviving in tidal pools, ship hulls as well as open water has allowed them to become tolerant of changing water parameters. Tigriopus are routinely found thriving in tidal pools which experience changing temperatures and salinity. Acartia pods are thought to originate in tropical waters, but are now found in waters all over the planet including arctic waters, this redistribution is largely attributed to transport in ships ballast waters. Some pods spend their lives floating and swimming in open waters, while others like the Tisbe spend their life benthic (crawling in the sand bed and rocks of the reef) and others such as the Apocyclops changes as they progress through their life stages. With the exception of very specialized aquariums, standard water parameters, temperatures, flow and lighting should accommodate most pods we encounter in the market currently.

Choosing the right copepod for your system is also important. Although any copepod colony is a plus for your tank, certain pods are better depending on the needs of the other tank inhabitants. Mandarins can spend their entire day picking benthic Tisbes and Apocyclops from the rock, while sand sifting gobies draw them out of the sifting sands. Dragon wrasses, anthias, pipefish and seahorses hunt their pods out of the water column, collecting Psuedo, Acartia, Tigriopus and Apocyclops as they endlessly cruise the tank or sway effortlessly from their perch attached to strands of macro algae with their coiled tail. Their mixed life stages makes the Apocyclops my number one pick.

How and when we introduce the copepods can play a major role in how well they survive the transition, which plays a role in successfully developing a colony as well. We strongly recommend adding the copepods to the aquarium with return pumps off, and flow pumps at least reduced. Also adding the copepods at least one hour after lights out, will lessen the impact of a feeding frenzy when adding them into a stocked reef. Due to their ability to withstand changes in water parameters, matching salinity is not as important as it is with the introduction of new fish. Bringing your copepods to room temperature is advised, floating the container to match tank temperatures is even better if possible. In a system with a refugium adding 1/4-3/4 of the contents of your order can allow the copepods to breed and multiply without being preyed upon, and they should find their way throughout the system naturally. Without a refugium, if allowed to seek shelter in the sand and rocks as described above, they can and should still be able to reproduce within your system.

IMG_6645.jpeg

Finally providing your copepods with nutritious food is another important step in reaching our colonization goals. Although nuisance algae, detritus and macro algae can provide a stable food source, there is no guarantee that what they eat will provide for their top health and survival, nor that it will ensure that the pods themselves will provide the best nutritional profile when they themselves are consumed. One solid way to assist in both their health and reproduction is by dosing live phytoplankton. A constant source and supply of phytoplankton provides the copepods with the amino acids, fatty acids, and vitamins they need to be at their peak health and nutritional value.

Even if you diligently pursue and execute each of these steps, you may still fail to establish a strong colony, at least on the first try. In these cases, adding additional copepods every two weeks to a month will greatly increase your odds. This can be especially helpful in tanks stocked with the above mentioned pod hunters. Due to the small size of many of the copepods, it can be difficult to determine the populations of copepods within our systems. Generally they are easiest to detect in areas where the glass is not the cleanest, as they will congregate in areas like the back glass where we don’t clear the film algae as often. Viewing these areas at night with a concentrate light beam is beneficial.

At www.reefbysteele.com we culture and ship copepods raised on phytoplankton rich in all the nutrients needed by your tank inhabitants. With 3 or 6 species copepod blends you are sure to find a product with the right species to settle nicely into your reef. And now is the perfect time, as you can take advantage of our current offer of double the pods where we add our Harpa pods to our standard blends adding another species to expand and strengthen the opportunity of successful colonization of your copepods.
I am currently building a centrally filtered 9 tank system of a total of approx. 1,100 gallons. I plan to add several refugiums to that volume , yet! Even with the new bacteria, IDK how long it'll take for the FULL system to cycle, but I'm thinking to set up valves where I can open & add tanks as I'm ready! I have a 150 gal. per day RO/DI LiquiGen system. The main pump is a Reeflo Golden Hybrid Hammerhead / Barracuda ( 6,100 GPH ) , with an Orlushy 12000 for ONE of the secondary pumps. I'm using DIY "TOTER" Trash Bins for "FILTH-tration" ( LOL) . . . .a 45 gal. will be in my 1900 built basement, and a 96 gal. will be on the main floor in my "FILTH-tration" room. Filter media is layers of 6" thick sponge foam, Poly-fil & Floss, and rock. . . . . .LOTS of ROCK! . . . .I plan on 3 lbs per system gallon, as I can afford to add it over time. So far, I have about 350 lbs to start with. The tank roster is : 45 gal. acrylic tank water bridged through my home office wall to my acrylic 75 gal. Office tank ; a 75 gal. glass "Breakfast Bar" tank ; a 65 gal. ; a 120 gal that'll be a Mixed reef ; 2- 125 gal. tanks & a 66" L x 45" H x 18"W "HIGH BOY" peninsula - 230 gal. tank that I plan to daisy chain together for a total 480 gal. / 17.5 ft. swim space system! In a system such as this, I will have a vast variation of inhabitants - from Reef friendly Wrasses , LARGE species Tangs, Butterflyfish, Anthias, Blennies, et al ! Pretty much the full spectrum. I very much want to establish Pods & Phyto BEFORE I add ANY fish to the system at all! My thought being to give them a chance to get WELL established - both in the substrate, rocks & Refugiums, as well! Could you please guide me in what to plan to get once I'm getting things WET at last!? I'm looking to soon start my quarantine tank ( 40 gal ) . I have a Tidal 55 & a small U V sterilizer to go on that tank. Thanks!
 

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When feeding plankton to filter feeders and copepods how often and how much per litre of tank water this must be a question ask often
 
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Reef By Steele

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I recommend dosing our live phytoplankton at a rate of 1-3 ml per gallon. 3.785 liters per gallon. So roughly 1 ml for every 3 l up to 1 to 1. The lower range for newer less densely stocked tanks, mid range for reasonably stocked tanks and the higher range for tanks with lots of filter feeders like feather dusters, Christmas tree worms, plus NPS like sun coral and some gorgonia.
 

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I recommend dosing our live phytoplankton at a rate of 1-3 ml per gallon. 3.785 liters per gallon. So roughly 1 ml for every 3 l up to 1 to 1. The lower range for newer less densely stocked tanks, mid range for reasonably stocked tanks and the higher range for tanks with lots of filter feeders like feather dusters, Christmas tree worms, plus NPS like sun coral and some gorgonia.
Thanks because when I put some in I always say or I will give more. Great info thank you my friend
 
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Reef By Steele

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Thanks because when I put some in I always say or I will give more. Great info thank you my friend
Other thing to look at is your nutrients. If they start to drop significantly lower your dosage, if they are going up increase dosage. However this is only with live. Dead phytoplankton can cause nutrients to rise if dosing more than is being consumed.
 

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I recommend dosing our live phytoplankton at a rate of 1-3 ml per gallon. 3.785 liters per gallon. So roughly 1 ml for every 3 l up to 1 to 1. The lower range for newer less densely stocked tanks, mid range for reasonably stocked tanks and the higher range for tanks with lots of filter feeders like feather dusters, Christmas tree worms, plus NPS like sun coral and some gorgonia.
I don't SPEAK metric! Help me out! BWAHAHAHAHAH!
 

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The shrimp is alive and well and breeding in the tank! I got more pods from you so my tank is exploding with pods! Dosing phyto to keep the population up but so far the shrimp isn't attacking anything other than green hair algae and some leftover mysis here and there.

None of my community nano fishes are eating the shrimp! I have tons! haha love them. Lil saltwater neos
Pics or video please!
 

kiwikoxo

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Pics or video please!
It's nighttime here so the shrimp is hiding really well! Some are preggos again. Idk if the babies are surviving or not but I do notice tiny shrimps.

6EXrc32_4jLDi6_5vjwuQ_480000.jpg

6EXrc32_37M8sh_2L17Yi_480000.jpg

6EXrc32_3HyDod_3HfGMC_480000.jpg


The white specks on the GHA is pods! Lots of pods! I brought phyto from algae barn and it was weak and smelly! Buy from steele! He gave me the most pods out of everyone! The shrimp is actually the feeder shrimps lol but none of my fishos is going after them.


So they are mine now. Ohana means no one gets left behind.

 

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