How to get copepods to colonize in our tanks?

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Reef By Steele

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How do I get an established copepod colony in my aquarium.
When we got back into the hobby after a 10 year break, mandarin dragonets were one of our must have fish. We found a lot of information that we didn’t have during our early years in the hobby, and copepods and their importance was one of the first new revelations that we discovered. After purchasing copepods several times, we started culturing our own. This is how www.reefbysteele.com came to be. At that point we didn’t know that copepods could and would reproduce, becoming a stable food source for the other reef inhabitants.

Copepods are quite resilient and hardy. That being said there are best practices to get a solid population of copepods in your tank. There are also mistakes to avoid.

First and foremost is to begin by purchasing healthy pods from a reputable source. There are many companies you can choose from. Hopefully if you have questions they will respond to your requests and provide solid information. Seek a company that guarantees live arrival and service after the sale.

Next, ensure your tank is properly prepared. Although copepods are tough, too much ammonia can definitely eliminate them or at least seriously lessen their populations. This being said, they can be one of the first life forms that can be safely added to your tank, once your tank is cycled. Due to copepods natural environment, surviving in tidal pools, ship hulls as well as open water has allowed them to become tolerant of changing water parameters. Tigriopus are routinely found thriving in tidal pools which experience changing temperatures and salinity. Acartia pods are thought to originate in tropical waters, but are now found in waters all over the planet including arctic waters, this redistribution is largely attributed to transport in ships ballast waters. Some pods spend their lives floating and swimming in open waters, while others like the Tisbe spend their life benthic (crawling in the sand bed and rocks of the reef) and others such as the Apocyclops changes as they progress through their life stages. With the exception of very specialized aquariums, standard water parameters, temperatures, flow and lighting should accommodate most pods we encounter in the market currently.

Choosing the right copepod for your system is also important. Although any copepod colony is a plus for your tank, certain pods are better depending on the needs of the other tank inhabitants. Mandarins can spend their entire day picking benthic Tisbes and Apocyclops from the rock, while sand sifting gobies draw them out of the sifting sands. Dragon wrasses, anthias, pipefish and seahorses hunt their pods out of the water column, collecting Psuedo, Acartia, Tigriopus and Apocyclops as they endlessly cruise the tank or sway effortlessly from their perch attached to strands of macro algae with their coiled tail. Their mixed life stages makes the Apocyclops my number one pick.

How and when we introduce the copepods can play a major role in how well they survive the transition, which plays a role in successfully developing a colony as well. We strongly recommend adding the copepods to the aquarium with return pumps off, and flow pumps at least reduced. Also adding the copepods at least one hour after lights out, will lessen the impact of a feeding frenzy when adding them into a stocked reef. Due to their ability to withstand changes in water parameters, matching salinity is not as important as it is with the introduction of new fish. Bringing your copepods to room temperature is advised, floating the container to match tank temperatures is even better if possible. In a system with a refugium adding 1/4-3/4 of the contents of your order can allow the copepods to breed and multiply without being preyed upon, and they should find their way throughout the system naturally. Without a refugium, if allowed to seek shelter in the sand and rocks as described above, they can and should still be able to reproduce within your system.

IMG_6645.jpeg

Finally providing your copepods with nutritious food is another important step in reaching our colonization goals. Although nuisance algae, detritus and macro algae can provide a stable food source, there is no guarantee that what they eat will provide for their top health and survival, nor that it will ensure that the pods themselves will provide the best nutritional profile when they themselves are consumed. One solid way to assist in both their health and reproduction is by dosing live phytoplankton. A constant source and supply of phytoplankton provides the copepods with the amino acids, fatty acids, and vitamins they need to be at their peak health and nutritional value.

Even if you diligently pursue and execute each of these steps, you may still fail to establish a strong colony, at least on the first try. In these cases, adding additional copepods every two weeks to a month will greatly increase your odds. This can be especially helpful in tanks stocked with the above mentioned pod hunters. Due to the small size of many of the copepods, it can be difficult to determine the populations of copepods within our systems. Generally they are easiest to detect in areas where the glass is not the cleanest, as they will congregate in areas like the back glass where we don’t clear the film algae as often. Viewing these areas at night with a concentrate light beam is beneficial.

At www.reefbysteele.com we culture and ship copepods raised on phytoplankton rich in all the nutrients needed by your tank inhabitants. With 3 or 6 species copepod blends you are sure to find a product with the right species to settle nicely into your reef. And now is the perfect time, as you can take advantage of our current offer of double the pods where we add our Harpa pods to our standard blends adding another species to expand and strengthen the opportunity of successful colonization of your copepods.
 
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Almiti86

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I used to have a ton of pods and now it seems like there's barely ever any in my system, haven't done a water change in over 6 months and I'm guessing I'm missing some type of trace element for the pods to thrive. I'm sending an icp test this week, I think I'm at least low on iron, is there any elements I should pay specific attention to when the test comes back?
 

Almiti86

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I used to have a ton of pods and now it seems like there's barely ever any in my system, haven't done a water change in over 6 months and I'm guessing I'm missing some type of trace element for the pods to thrive. I'm sending an icp test this week, I think I'm at least low on iron, is there any elements I should pay specific attention to when the test comes back?
 
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Reef By Steele

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Would the pods eventually end up in the filter sock or protein skimmer and just die off?
If your system is providing the necessary nutrients for the pods, or you are dosing phytoplankton to feed them which I recommend, copepods reproduce in the thousands weekly if not faster. Yes some may get skimmed out, and some may get caught in the socks, but if the environment is stable there should be far more that survive. I ran a 210 fallow for moths while I was recovering from surgeries and since no fish we really didn’t wipe the glass like we do on our other tanks. When the algae started covering the glass, it was literally covered with pods. We run a roller mat, skimmer and uv in the system.
Now that we stocked it with three angels and a panther grouper, we clean the glass and I don’t see pods in the glass anymore. Don’t know if it is because they are hiding elsewhere, or if when I cleaned it to get ready for the fish I screwed up and got palytoxin, don’t know what impact that had on the life in the tank.

So yes pods can and will thrive with all filtration systems in place.
 
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I used to have a ton of pods and now it seems like there's barely ever any in my system, haven't done a water change in over 6 months and I'm guessing I'm missing some type of trace element for the pods to thrive. I'm sending an icp test this week, I think I'm at least low on iron, is there any elements I should pay specific attention to when the test comes back?
That is a pretty good question, that I honestly don’t know the answer for. Two points that I would make, if the water is good enough for corals, it is good enough for pods (they can take more abuse than our corals and fish). If you are not seeing pods, I would guess there could be a couple of things in play.

They could be getting eaten by your fish and just not keeping up in the reproduction side. They could have experience some type of die off related to a spike in something in the water, or like I might have done once with palys and scrubbed some rocks with them batting paly toxin poisoning myself, don’t know if it hurt them or not, but did read an article where Julian Strang (I think, famous coral guy) wiped out fish and corals in several of his tanks moving a paly colony around to find its happy place). Or they could be in your system and you just don’t see them.

I rarely see them in my system, but if I let algae build up on the glass somewhere then they come out.
 

monfilsi

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there isn’t anyone in my country that sells copepods and I also can’t import them. I’m trying to culture them from the few I have found in my sump but I haven’t had any luck yet. I Feed them phyto that I culture. Hard to start a culture from scratch with just a few individuals.

I could probably grow amphipods without much trouble. Tank is full of them.
 
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Reef By Steele

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there isn’t anyone in my country that sells copepods and I also can’t import them. I’m trying to culture them from the few I have found in my sump but I haven’t had any luck yet. I Feed them phyto that I culture. Hard to start a culture from scratch with just a few individuals.

I could probably grow amphipods without much trouble. Tank is full of them.
Are you pulling some pods into a separate container with air and feeding phytoplankton?
 

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How often do you dose the photo. I read about a tablespoon per week for about 200 gal tank with skimmer off.
 
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Reef By Steele

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How often do you dose the photo. I read about a tablespoon per week for about 200 gal tank with skimmer off.
I don’t know what phyto you are using. That might not be bad for dead phyto. I dose 1-3 ml per gallon of system water per day. 1 in FOWLR tanks, 2 in mixed reefs and I do 5 in my reef with my Christmas tree worms.
 

monfilsi

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Yup. I have a rock in the sump that collects a few copepods and I shake them into a separate 1L vessel with a slow air supply (~2 bubbles per second). Feeding live phyto (Tetraselmis Suecica). Looking under the microscope to see what survives, but after 3-4 weeks, only thing still alive is the phyto that I regularly top up. Hard to isolate only copepods from whatever else might be coming along for the ride from the rock. Never see any egg sacks when I do see copepods under the microscope.

I'll give it another try and start it again this coming weekend.
 
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@Reef By Steele
Yup. I have a rock in the sump that collects a few copepods and I shake them into a separate 1L vessel with a slow air supply (~2 bubbles per second). Feeding live phyto (Tetraselmis Suecica). Looking under the microscope to see what survives, but after 3-4 weeks, only thing still alive is the phyto that I regularly top up. Hard to isolate only copepods from whatever else might be coming along for the ride from the rock. Never see any egg sacks when I do see copepods under the microscope.

I'll give it another try and start it again this coming weekend.
Do you have any pics under the microscope?

Might increase the air supply. I run a little faster to keep the phyto from settling. Of course tetra won’t settle as much as other as it is motile.
 

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I culture pods in a little Tupperware bin. Tigger pods from algea barn. Currently in my basement for the winter but soon they will be outside. Once the water goes green I just add a little fertilizer once in a while. That little tote breeds millions of the little buggers all summer.
 

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Do you have any pics under the microscope?

Might increase the air supply. I run a little faster to keep the phyto from settling. Of course tetra won’t settle as much as other as it is motile.
Just cleaned out the last failed batch. I'll get some pics when I make a new batch in the next couple of weeks.
 

tmhickey2023

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How do I get an established copepod colony in my aquarium.
When we got back into the hobby after a 10 year break, mandarin dragonets were one of our must have fish. We found a lot of information that we didn’t have during our early years in the hobby, and copepods and their importance was one of the first new revelations that we discovered. After purchasing copepods several times, we started culturing our own. This is how www.reefbysteele.com came to be. At that point we didn’t know that copepods could and would reproduce, becoming a stable food source for the other reef inhabitants.

Copepods are quite resilient and hardy. That being said there are best practices to get a solid population of copepods in your tank. There are also mistakes to avoid.

First and foremost is to begin by purchasing healthy pods from a reputable source. There are many companies you can choose from. Hopefully if you have questions they will respond to your requests and provide solid information. Seek a company that guarantees live arrival and service after the sale.

Next, ensure your tank is properly prepared. Although copepods are tough, too much ammonia can definitely eliminate them or at least seriously lessen their populations. This being said, they can be one of the first life forms that can be safely added to your tank, once your tank is cycled. Due to copepods natural environment, surviving in tidal pools, ship hulls as well as open water has allowed them to become tolerant of changing water parameters. Tigriopus are routinely found thriving in tidal pools which experience changing temperatures and salinity. Acartia pods are thought to originate in tropical waters, but are now found in waters all over the planet including arctic waters, this redistribution is largely attributed to transport in ships ballast waters. Some pods spend their lives floating and swimming in open waters, while others like the Tisbe spend their life benthic (crawling in the sand bed and rocks of the reef) and others such as the Apocyclops changes as they progress through their life stages. With the exception of very specialized aquariums, standard water parameters, temperatures, flow and lighting should accommodate most pods we encounter in the market currently.

Choosing the right copepod for your system is also important. Although any copepod colony is a plus for your tank, certain pods are better depending on the needs of the other tank inhabitants. Mandarins can spend their entire day picking benthic Tisbes and Apocyclops from the rock, while sand sifting gobies draw them out of the sifting sands. Dragon wrasses, anthias, pipefish and seahorses hunt their pods out of the water column, collecting Psuedo, Acartia, Tigriopus and Apocyclops as they endlessly cruise the tank or sway effortlessly from their perch attached to strands of macro algae with their coiled tail. Their mixed life stages makes the Apocyclops my number one pick.

How and when we introduce the copepods can play a major role in how well they survive the transition, which plays a role in successfully developing a colony as well. We strongly recommend adding the copepods to the aquarium with return pumps off, and flow pumps at least reduced. Also adding the copepods at least one hour after lights out, will lessen the impact of a feeding frenzy when adding them into a stocked reef. Due to their ability to withstand changes in water parameters, matching salinity is not as important as it is with the introduction of new fish. Bringing your copepods to room temperature is advised, floating the container to match tank temperatures is even better if possible. In a system with a refugium adding 1/4-3/4 of the contents of your order can allow the copepods to breed and multiply without being preyed upon, and they should find their way throughout the system naturally. Without a refugium, if allowed to seek shelter in the sand and rocks as described above, they can and should still be able to reproduce within your system.

IMG_6645.jpeg

Finally providing your copepods with nutritious food is another important step in reaching our colonization goals. Although nuisance algae, detritus and macro algae can provide a stable food source, there is no guarantee that what they eat will provide for their top health and survival, nor that it will ensure that the pods themselves will provide the best nutritional profile when they themselves are consumed. One solid way to assist in both their health and reproduction is by dosing live phytoplankton. A constant source and supply of phytoplankton provides the copepods with the amino acids, fatty acids, and vitamins they need to be at their peak health and nutritional value.

Even if you diligently pursue and execute each of these steps, you may still fail to establish a strong colony, at least on the first try. In these cases, adding additional copepods every two weeks to a month will greatly increase your odds. This can be especially helpful in tanks stocked with the above mentioned pod hunters. Due to the small size of many of the copepods, it can be difficult to determine the populations of copepods within our systems. Generally they are easiest to detect in areas where the glass is not the cleanest, as they will congregate in areas like the back glass where we don’t clear the film algae as often. Viewing these areas at night with a concentrate light beam is beneficial.

At www.reefbysteele.com we culture and ship copepods raised on phytoplankton rich in all the nutrients needed by your tank inhabitants. With 3 or 6 species copepod blends you are sure to find a product with the right species to settle nicely into your reef. And now is the perfect time, as you can take advantage of our current offer of double the pods where we add our Harpa pods to our standard blends adding another species to expand and strengthen the opportunity of successful colonization of your copepods.
I have a question: if I place some rock in the sump, can I grow pods there? And if so, do I need to somehow move them to DT or will any make it up via the return pump alive? Thanks!
 
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Reef By Steele

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Yes rock or bio bricks make good homes for them to breed and reproduce in the sump. They should for the most part work their way throughout the system and will survive the trip through the pump. If you see a massive population in the sump and not a lot in the DT just siphon some out and pour in the DT after dark.

Generally you would see more in the sump vs the DT as it is more closed and they may not feel endangered by fish.
 

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That is a pretty good question, that I honestly don’t know the answer for. Two points that I would make, if the water is good enough for corals, it is good enough for pods (they can take more abuse than our corals and fish). If you are not seeing pods, I would guess there could be a couple of things in play.

They could be getting eaten by your fish and just not keeping up in the reproduction side. They could have experience some type of die off related to a spike in something in the water, or like I might have done once with palys and scrubbed some rocks with them batting paly toxin poisoning myself, don’t know if it hurt them or not, but did read an article where Julian Strang (I think, famous coral guy) wiped out fish and corals in several of his tanks moving a paly colony around to find its happy place). Or they could be in your system and you just don’t see them.

I rarely see them in my system, but if I let algae build up on the glass somewhere then they come out.
or a 3rd reason could be tank is too clean and they dont have food to multiply.
 
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Reef By Steele

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or a 3rd reason could be tank is too clean and they dont have food to multiply.
Yes, I’m pretty sure my tanks will never be that clean lol. But we also really recommend dosing live phyto as it makes the pods more nutritious for the fish with all the amino and fatty acids, and improves the overall water climate.
 

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Yes, I’m pretty sure my tanks will never be that clean lol. But we also really recommend dosing live phyto as it makes the pods more nutritious for the fish with all the amino and fatty acids, and improves the overall water climate.
are there any benefits to certain species of phyto over others? do some consume nutrients faster than others, or say, are some more nutritious than others, or do some multiply in tank faster than others>?
 
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Each has its own benefits. But some overlap. The greens are higher in EPA and the Browns are higher in DHA I think might be the opposite. So the brown diatoms and golden like Isochrysis and Pavlova are higher in HUFA (highly unsaturated fatty acids) so they provide more energy and translate to higher nutritional content. Some have different sized cells so some pods will eat the smaller celled phyto more readily, like Nanno, Iso and Pav, phaeo.

So the blend is the most comprehensive, but if wanting to culture, I would probably suggest Nannochloropsis, and a diatom like Thalassiosira weissflogii
 

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