How to deal with ICH? Come here to save your fishes!

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When you see a little white spots on your fishes body. It means you got ich from your tank. And you have to prepare your meds ASAP to kill them. Ich is a very command parasite sickness for fishes. It is easy to deal with but most of people just not treat them in the right way. So, I will share my experience and hope this can help to save your fishes!

First, you need to understand their life cycle. They will parasitic on the body and also the gill of the fish. When you see few of them on the body means they will everywhere within 5-8 days. They usually grow up within 15-30 days(that depend on your water), and then drop from the fish and flow over your tank to parasitic another fish until they checkmate all your fishes. They can't survive in 90 degree water, however, 90% fishes can not alive in that temperature, so raising the temperature is not the way to kill ich. Ich will die within 10-12 days if they don't parasitic on fish for nutrition.

Where ich came from? They usually came from the sick fish you just bought, none clean saltwater from LFS, or due to high pressure. When you buy a new fish that not welcome to their roommate and get attacked, they will get ich very easy as well. So make sure you introduce them well when you get any of new fishes. You can also use Stress Guard when you do water change or adding new fishes. HIGH RECOMMEND!

So now, what to do?

1. Make sure you have a QT if your main tank is a coral tank. I don't have coral cuz I'm just a bit lazy to deal with them, also coral is a bit spoil. so fish tank only for me is enough.

2. Move all your fishes to the QT. Don't make it wrong! When you see one fish with ich, it mean ich is everywhere from your main tank! You can't just treat the sick fish only. Otherwise, you will get very headache when fish becoming sick again and again!

3. Raise the temperature for your QT up to 82-84 degree. That temperature does not hurt ANY kind of your fishes, even clean wrasse. The reason why you raise up the temp. is because you want to get ich grow up much faster. It shorter the ich life cycle from 15-30 days to 3-5 days. And they will drop at that time and leave the body of fishes.

4. Give fishes some extra oxygen, you can get a oxygen pump with batteries from petco, petsmart or LFS. When temperature raised up. Oxygen level drop. So you need to get them more oxygen to breathe.

5. Use your secret weapon, Copper Power or ICH-X. I prefer to use Copper Power because it is much stronger and efficient. Ich-X does works but I will treat in different ways with it. When you use copper power, just make sure you test the copper with 2.5-3ppm(Hanna Instruments Checker is doing a great job), do not over dose your water over 3ppm, because it hurt the kidney of your fish. If you prefer Ich-X, I will recommend you do the water change daily and redose the meds everyday. YES! I'M TALKING ABOUT EVERYDAY! Not every 48hrs. Ich-X is safe to use even over dose a bit, Changing water is helping to clean some volume of ich out of you tank and redose the meds to keep the water efficient to kill the ich. Don't panic if you see more ich on the surface after you dose the meds. That happens because the ich is growing up and they are almost ready to free to swim in your tank. The big difference between Ich-X and Copper Power is, Ich-X will make the water become blue but CP doesn't. However, Ich-X won't always keep your water blue. that usually disappear within 1-2 hours

6. Turn off the skimmer during the treatment if you are treating your main tank, otherwise, the copper level will become much lower and Ich-X will mostly gone!

7. Do not turn on your UV light if you treat copper directly from your fish only tank or QT. It doesn't mean you can't do it, but just not recommend it. Low volume of copper + UV light will not hurt your fish but they don't like it. As same as human doesn't like to swim in the warm water in hot summer. Don't get me wrong, I'm talking about low volume of copper NOT high volume! If you dose high volume ich-x or stabilize copper power to your tank, you should turn off your UV light, otherwise, some of your fish will hurt or die! Plus, UV doesn't kill ich AT ALL. It only helps with Algae. You don't want to use low volume of copper cuz that might not kill ich properly as it usually does.

8. Feed them less than usual. You can use the garlic guard to mix the frozen food or fish dry food. Fishes are starving anything with garlic. And garlic boost their immunity. Some people said it is OK for none dose meds if they eating well. That is completely wrong!!!!!! If you don't dose the meds, you will get 100% dead fish in your tank!!!!

9. You will see almost none ich within 7 days if you do all those steps, but it doesn't mean you are ready to get them home(main tank). Make sure you keep quarantine them 2 better 3 weeks from the main tank, because ich still alive in your main tank even after 10 days without parasitic on fishes. Keep the copper level in your QT the same level with 2 weeks and your fishes will be free of ich.
 
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I had ich once, on one fish in a lowly populated tank. I kept my eye on the fish for signs of stress and bought meds just in case. Fish (boxfish) didnt show stress and other fish didn't pick it up so I let it ride and it vanished and has never returned. Touch wood.
 

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UV can kill ICH. that is one inaccuracy, and the stuff about garlic increasing their immunity is also suspect, or at least certainly not proven. And I'm not sure I agree with feeding less during QT either, but I'm sure that can have some merit in certain circumstances, but I wouldn't make that a rule of thumb.

other than those small items, nice job.
 
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UV can kill ICH. that is one inaccuracy, and the stuff about garlic increasing their immunity is also suspect, or at least certainly not proven. And I'm not sure I agree with feeding less during QT either, but I'm sure that can have some merit in certain circumstances, but I wouldn't make that a rule of thumb.

other than those small items, nice job.
I think its proven to stimulate appetite. so if theres a grey area of whether to feed more/less then garlic is perhaps ideal if the fish stops eating altogether but not ideal generally because that would increase its demand.
without a scientific answer to whether it should eat more or less during QT then it is anecdotal
 
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Subonidio

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When you see a little white spots on your fishes body. It means you got ich from your tank. And you have to prepare your meds ASAP to kill them. Ich is a very command parasite sickness for fishes. It is easy to deal with but most of people just not treat them in the right way. So, I will share my experience and hope this can help to save your fishes!

First, you need to understand their life cycle. They will parasitic on the body and also the gill of the fish. When you see few of them on the body means they will everywhere within 5-8 days. They usually grow up within 15-30 days(that depend on your water), and then drop from the fish and flow over your tank to parasitic another fish until they checkmate all your fishes. They can't survive in 90 degree water, however, 90% fishes can not alive in that temperature, so raising the temperature is not the way to kill ich. Ich will die within 10-12 days if they don't parasitic on fish for nutrition.

Where ich came from? They usually came from the sick fish you just bought, none clean saltwater from LFS, or due to high pressure. When you buy a new fish that not welcome to their roommate and get attacked, they will get ich very easy as well. So make sure you introduce them well when you get any of new fishes. You can also use Stress Guard when you do water change or adding new fishes. HIGH RECOMMEND!

So now, what to do?

1. Make sure you have a QT if your main tank is a coral tank. I don't have coral cuz I'm just a bit lazy to deal with them, also coral is a bit spoil. so fish tank only for me is enough.

2. Move all your fishes to the QT. Don't make it wrong! When you see one fish with ich, it mean ich is everywhere from your main tank! You can't just treat the sick fish only. Otherwise, you will get very headache when fish becoming sick again and again!

3. Raise the temperature for your QT up to 82-84 degree. That temperature does not hurt ANY kind of your fishes, even clean wrasse. The reason why you raise up the temp. is because you want to get ich grow up much faster. It shorter the ich life cycle from 15-30 days to 3-5 days. And they will drop at that time and leave the body of fishes.

4. Give fishes some extra oxygen, you can get a oxygen pump with batteries from petco, petsmart or LFS. When temperature raised up. Oxygen level drop. So you need to get them more oxygen to breathe.

5. Use your secret weapon, Copper Power or ICH-X. I prefer to use Copper Power because it is much stronger and efficient. Ich-X does works but I will treat in different ways with it. When you use copper power, just make sure you test the copper with 2.5-3ppm(Hanna Instruments Checker is doing a great job), do not over dose your water over 3ppm, because it hurt the kidney of your fish. If you prefer Ich-X, I will recommend you do the water change daily and redose the meds everyday. YES! I'M TALKING ABOUT EVERYDAY! Not every 48hrs. Ich-X is safe to use even over dose a bit, Changing water is helping to clean some volume of ich out of you tank and redose the meds to keep the water efficient to kill the ich. Don't panic if you see more ich on the surface after you dose the meds. That happens because the ich is growing up and they are almost ready to free to swim in your tank. The big difference between Ich-X and Copper Power is, Ich-X will make the water become blue but CP doesn't. However, Ich-X won't always keep your water blue. that usually disappear within 1-2 hours

6. Turn off the skimmer during the treatment if you are treating your main tank, otherwise, the copper level will become much lower and Ich-X will mostly gone!

7. Do not turn on your UV light if you treat copper directly from your fish only tank or QT. It doesn't mean you can't do it, but just not recommend it. Low volume of copper + UV light will not hurt your fish but they don't like it. As same as human doesn't like to swim in the warm water in hot summer. Don't get me wrong, I'm talking about low volume of copper NOT high volume! If you dose high volume ich-x or stabilize copper power to your tank, you should turn off your UV light, otherwise, some of your fish will hurt or die! Plus, UV doesn't kill ich AT ALL. It only helps with Algae. You don't want to use low volume of copper cuz that might not kill ich properly as it usually does.

8. Feed them less than usual. You can use the garlic guard to mix the frozen food or fish dry food. Fishes are starving anything with garlic. And garlic boost their immunity. Some people said it is OK for none dose meds if they eating well. That is completely wrong!!!!!! If you don't dose the meds, you will get 100% dead fish in your tank!!!!

9. You will see almost none ich within 7 days if you do all those steps, but it doesn't mean you are ready to get them home(main tank). Make sure you keep quarantine them 2 better 3 weeks from the main tank, because ich still alive in your main tank even after 10 days without parasitic on fishes. Keep the copper level in your QT the same level with 2 weeks and your fishes will be free of ich.
All my fish got ich I could not identify Wich fish was the culprit..... Try many things ... with no results. QtT tank ....I'm against copper %100%

Copper to me would be like if you have a tapeworm and the doctor says " YOU KNOW WHAT WE ARE GOING TO DIP YOU IN CYNADE JUST FOR A WEEK" BUT DON'T WORRY THE DOSE WON'T KILL YOU I KNOW ,IM A DOCTOR "

So I prepare a delicious concoction the fish could not resist with metronidazole medication ( make by seachem) and boala!!! No ich since then.

So I do believe what the main stream says
 

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Yeah, seems a bit odd to join and then immediately make a bunch of posts pushing products to treat ich, and bolding those products in your post, while there is already plenty of good info on this forum for treating ich that doesn't read like an advertisement or product dosing instructions and a thread title that sounds like it should belong on a youtube video.

Also for those interested in a non-copper proven effective way to treat ich and other parasites, check out HTTM (hybrid tank transfer method). Copper does work well, it helps to be able to accurately measure the level of copper in the tank, so you'll want a copper test kit to make sure you're doing it correctly.
 

bert236

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All my fish got ich I could not identify Wich fish was the culprit..... Try many things ... with no results. QtT tank ....I'm against copper %100%

Copper to me would be like if you have a tapeworm and the doctor says " YOU KNOW WHAT WE ARE GOING TO DIP YOU IN CYNADE JUST FOR A WEEK" BUT DON'T WORRY THE DOSE WON'T KILL YOU I KNOW ,IM A DOCTOR "

So I prepare a delicious concoction the fish could not resist with metronidazole medication ( make by seachem) and boala!!! No ich since then.

So I do believe what the main stream says
Except that dipping a human in cyanide for a week would kill them lol. Also is copper not more effective for ich and safer than metroplex since you can actually test for a therapeutic dosage?
 
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Subonidio

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Except that dipping a human in cyanide for a week would kill them lol. Also is copper not more effective for ich and safer than metroplex since you can actually test for a therapeutic dosage?
I just put a pinch in the food add focus to bind it , add garlic they were going nuts ..... metronidazole it's a human grade medicine ....I don't know about copper do you like some in your water ..... c'mon is just a little
 

bert236

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I just put a pinch in the food add focus to bind it , add garlic they were going nuts ..... metronidazole it's a human grade medicine ....I don't know about copper do you like some in your water ..... c'mon is just a little
Just because something is “human grade” doesn’t change the fact you can’t test for it and also is a horrible way to base what is good for fish because plenty of “human grade” stuff would kill fish and coral. Obviously this medicine is safe for fish but that’s a very generalized way to choose what is effective. From the limited amount I have looked into it copper seemed to be the most effective for ich and the most recommended. Those are the reasons I asked the question. There is copper in my drinking water I’m sure and there is 100% in many peoples drinking water so really not sure what that is about. It’s all about the level of copper.

I’m not even saying metro is bad or worse than copper I was just asking what facts you had that this way is as superior as you are making it out to be. Always trying to learn so when the day inevitably comes I’m ahead of the game and have lots of info.
 
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Subonidio

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Just because something is “human grade” doesn’t change the fact you can’t test for it and also is a horrible way to base what is good for fish because plenty of “human grade” stuff would kill fish and coral. Obviously this medicine is safe for fish but that’s a very generalized way to choose what is effective. From the limited amount I have looked into it copper seemed to be the most effective for ich and the most recommended. Those are the reasons I asked the question. There is copper in my drinking water I’m sure and there is 100% in many peoples drinking water so really not sure what that is about. It’s all about the level of copper.

I’m not even saying metro is bad or worse than copper I was just asking what facts you had that this way is as superior as you are making it out to be. Always trying to learn so when the day inevitably comes I’m ahead of the game and have lots of info.
Recommend by who???

Fish stores?

Read more my friend !!!!

Copper is bad for fish

Just like chemotherapy for humans!!!!

I was putting out there my own experience with ich!!!!

Nothing worked


No QT tank isolation

No leaving the tank running with out fish for. 2 months

Ich it's a nasty

I used Metro and worked ..... I didn't have to do nothing else but come up with a way my fish would take it .....

That's it!!!!


You go ahead and try copper ....I can't use copper because I have acros. I dismantle my tank just to get the fish to a QT tank ?

I tried , did not work!!!
 

Subonidio

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Yeah, seems a bit odd to join and then immediately make a bunch of posts pushing products to treat ich, and bolding those products in your post, while there is already plenty of good info on this forum for treating ich that doesn't read like an advertisement or product dosing instructions and a thread title that sounds like it should belong on a youtube video.

Also for those interested in a non-copper proven effective way to treat ich and other parasites, check out HTTM (hybrid tank transfer method). Copper does work well, it helps to be able to accurately measure the level of copper in the tank, so you'll want a copper test kit to make sure you're doing it correctly.
I'm not pushing anything I was just sharing my own experience I wish I would get pay by seachem!!!! ...lol

Just saying that is what I did

And worked!!!!

How many people quit just for that nasty ich??

I have 30 years of experience ....I'm an old school reefer ......

It's the same as years ago everyone was talking about you have to hit 0 on your Nitrates and phosphates !!!!

Everyone chasing that number

I never did ....

I have colonies that are 15 years old

I remember posting that my Nitrates where at 20 and I have acros .... every body want it to kill me . Saying that was impossible to keep acroporas at. That high number!! .... just because the main stream says something that means it's the best solution.

That's all
 

polyppal

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When you see a little white spots on your fishes body. It means you got ich from your tank.

Ich will die within 10-12 days if they don't parasitic on fish for nutrition.

You can also use Stress Guard when you do water change or adding new fishes. HIGH RECOMMEND!

3. Raise the temperature for your QT up to 82-84 degree. That temperature does not hurt ANY kind of your fishes, even clean wrasse. The reason why you raise up the temp. is because you want to get ich grow up much faster. It shorter the ich life cycle from 15-30 days to 3-5 days. And they will drop at that time and leave the body of fishes.

5. Use your secret weapon, ICH-X. The big difference between Ich-X and Copper Power is, Ich-X will make the water become blue but CP doesn't. However, Ich-X won't always keep your water blue. that usually disappear within 1-2 hours

Plus, UV doesn't kill ich AT ALL. It only helps with Algae.

8. Feed them less than usual. You can use the garlic guard to mix the frozen food or fish dry food. Fishes are starving anything with garlic. And garlic boost their immunity. Some people said it is OK for none dose meds if they eating well. That is completely wrong!!!!!! If you don't dose the meds, you will get 100% dead fish in your tank!!!!

9. You will see almost none ich within 7 days if you do all those steps
200.gif


April Fools Day was last friday.

Anybody reading this for advice:
dont follow this advice. you can learn the facts about marine ich and how to treat it here:
 
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bert236

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Recommend by who???

Fish stores?

Read more my friend !!!!

Copper is bad for fish

Just like chemotherapy for humans!!!!
If you have to ask who is recommending copper please don’t tell me I need to read more. There are so many threads and articles about it from unconnected sources. Your comment is full of hyperbole and again none of the facts I was asking for. I just hear way less about your method than copper so I figured I would ask since you seem to be a very ardent supporter of it.
You go ahead and try copper ....I can't use copper because I have acros. I dismantle my tank just to get the fish to a QT tank ?
That would be why you qt the fish before it goes into the tank. I know that isnt or can’t be the case for everyone but some of us do have dedicated qt tanks where copper can be used. I did see a pic of your tank though (went creeping to find pics and luckily you posted recently about it) I really like it. Very natural looking and some beautiful colonies. I can see why you wouldn’t want to tear that apart lol.

Just because you used something and it didn’t work doesn’t mean it didn’t work for many other people. I wouldn’t even want to count the amount of threads on here, humblefish, reef central and more that copper has worked safely on. You said you tried it and it didn’t work but that you couldn’t use it because of acros?
 

bert236

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I'm not pushing anything I was just sharing my own experience I wish I would get pay by seachem!!!! ...lol

Just saying that is what I did

And worked!!!!

How many people quit just for that nasty ich??

I have 30 years of experience ....I'm an old school reefer ......

It's the same as years ago everyone was talking about you have to hit 0 on your Nitrates and phosphates !!!!

Everyone chasing that number

I never did ....

I have colonies that are 15 years old

I remember posting that my Nitrates where at 20 and I have acros .... every body want it to kill me . Saying that was impossible to keep acroporas at. That high number!! .... just because the main stream says something that means it's the best solution.

That's all
I don’t think that was aimed at you pretty sure it was to the original poster and no one is questioning your reefing abilities.
 
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