How long does it take to reduce Phosphate with reactor

[balajeek15]

Makes sense as everyone saying 0.02 is very close to zero and if having up to 0.10 is not a problem, I will keep my Phosphan reactor offline and with regular feeding as I have now I will see if its climbs up or down. will keep you posted.

Now that i have a stratgey for Ni and Phos, i have to worry about getting micro nutrients back and do ICP again.

From Hanna website - precision: ±0.04 ppm (mg/L) ±4% of reading @ 25°C

Sincerely Lasse

thanks for bringing that up.

 

[balajeek15]

Makes sense as everyone saying 0.02 is very close to zero and if having up to 0.10 is not a problem, I will keep my Phosphan reactor offline and with regular feeding as I have now I will see if its climbs up or down. will keep you posted.

Now that i have a strategy for Ni and Phos, i have to worry about getting micro nutrients back and do ICP again. Thank you all.

 

[balajeek15]

pardon me for the dup post.

 

[jda]

Don't worry about it. Every time that I have tested RO or freshly mixed salt, I get zero ppb on the Hannah ULR. As long as you have a reading, then you have some. I usually get between 1 and 3 and my reefs do great.

I would not spend any money on ICP testing. There never seems to be much actionable stuff to come from one... just more questions, usually. People have had more trouble chasing a high tin level or low iodine/iodide level than just living with it, or what have you.

Edit: spend that ICP money on water changes or even investing in a supplement regime to replace more than what you get from a 2/3 part, or whatever. I change water because it is cheap and I am lazy, but people do well without changing water, but they also spend time and money to supplement traces too. Dutch Synthetic Reefing (DSR) is a free method and you can use that is not really a cult or costs much money like the commercial versions. ...Lasse knows a little about this. The people who just don't do anything often fail after a while. I don't do DSR because I am too lazy... water changes just take a few minutes and I can change 200 gallons for $44 when I get the box of IO on sale.

 

[blstravler]

IMO - it ia not a safe level. It's too low for most aquarium and can promote cyano and/or Dino outbreak. NSF values is around 0.04 in most of the natural coral reefs worldwide.

Sincerely Lasse

Can you explain how it causes a Cyano or Dino’s?

 

[jda]

They are both growth limited by higher N and P - each a different level. There is a common thought that the higher N and P grow more microfauna that outcompete dinos and cyano, and while this might be true to a degree, they are basically poisoned by the elevated levels. There is a sweet spot for them right above NSW parameters and below poison levels.

Coralline slows down significantly with elevated N and P levels too... mine will seriously slow down at about .10P and 5N. The stuff is a menace at NSW levels, and if I ever decided to raise them, it would be because of this.

FWIW - I use these values for NSW of .1N and .005-.01P, but as Lasse points out, some reefs are different all over the world. I mostly keep acropora and where they thrive in the south pacific, they are more like what is the Dr. RHF article:

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.php

 

[Lasse]

IMO - Cyanobacteria and dinoflagellates can fix its own N and P in different ways and does not need to relay on inorganic N or P in the water column - therefor they can take over space not covered by other photosynthetic organisms. It is more common with cyanobacteria and dinoflagellates in ULN systems compared with other ways of running the aquarium. There is two huge threads here covering this.

Sincerely Lasse

 

[blstravler]

IMO - Cyanobacteria and dinoflagellates can fix its own N and P in different ways and does not need to relay on inorganic N or P in the water column - therefor they can take over space not covered by other photosynthetic organisms. It is more common with cyanobacteria and dinoflagellates in ULN systems compared with other ways of running the aquarium. There is two huge threads here covering this.

Sincerely Lasse

So it’s more opinion based in the hobby?