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Hello,

We would Suggest the BRS ones they are super easy to use and they always have the parts in stock. How much water are you going to make per month? I think clean RODI water is the most Important thing so to get a stage 7 filter i think its a good thing even with well water you can never be too careful IMO
Which BRS filters do you use, is it one of these kits below? I was just looking at some of the stuff BRS has for 10% off during the Presidents day sale and realized the RODI filters are significantly less than what I have been buying. For me to replace 5-stages of filters it costs $174 and that is NOT including the membrane. Maybe they last longer than BRS, I don't know. My TDS out of the tap is always over 400, then about 3 after my membrane (the membrane is really good) then 0 after the first DI. Spectrapure is definitely a really good product, but I didn't realize the price difference was so much. Maybe I'm not comparing apples to apples

For $174 I get:
1. 0.2 micron Sediment
2. 0.5 Carbon
3. 1 micron Carbon which stops chloramines
4. DI type1
5. DI type 2

Here are the BRS kits, do you use one of these?


Thanks
 
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Big E

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You buy that stuff from BRS and you're going to pay premium prices on top of being taxed. 10% off is basically 2-3% off in the end. You get much better savings doing some searches outside of the marine vendors.
 

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What is the max par you run your tenuis at to get them to color up? Right now my cherrybomb is sitting at around 550 par and looks phenomenal, and I’m trying to recreate a zone like that in my new tank but not sure if I should have zones above 550.
 
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Yes! It’s called spot check. It was pretty fast turn around time too! For under $25 I’m gonna do it a couple times a year
What is the process and turn around time? Is it like sending off an ICP?
 
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How moderne do You change your
Membranes?

I think I remember reading you were very 3 months

You turned me on To frequent membrane changes

It’s a huge help


We do it every 2 months. we don't play around with this. we run our RODI system super clean
 
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Which BRS filters do you use, is it one of these kits below? I was just looking at some of the stuff BRS has for 10% off during the Presidents day sale and realized the RODI filters are significantly less than what I have been buying. For me to replace 5-stages of filters it costs $174 and that is NOT including the membrane. Maybe they last longer than BRS, I don't know. My TDS out of the tap is always over 400, then about 3 after my membrane (the membrane is really good) then 0 after the first DI. Spectrapure is definitely a really good product, but I didn't realize the price difference was so much. Maybe I'm not comparing apples to apples

For $174 I get:
1. 0.2 micron Sediment
2. 0.5 Carbon
3. 1 micron Carbon which stops chloramines
4. DI type1
5. DI type 2

Here are the BRS kits, do you use one of these?


Thanks


we do but it all from BRS because we have the BRS system. we may pay more but we like the availability of it

we buy each one individually from BRS
 
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What is the max par you run your tenuis at to get them to color up? Right now my cherrybomb is sitting at around 550 par and looks phenomenal, and I’m trying to recreate a zone like that in my new tank but not sure if I should have zones above 550.


our max par is 450. we use Radian g4 pro abplus schedule at 78 % intensity and the corals are 12 inches under the lights
 
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a
On the newer tank you setup, how quickly did you start to see coraline spots showing up? I’m at the point now in my build where I’m throwing in a large cleanup crew and going to feed heavy, but still no spots just yet.
3-4 months and you should see purple dots
 
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Back to the new tank update.

The tank has now been running for 8 months and its time to get the paraments in check. I won’t put any SPS into the system until I think the paraments are optimal and 2-part doser setup with the ato ect… this is literally the 1st time testing paraments ever, so I had no idea what to expect. I think it could take another 4-8 weeks to get everything right before sps go in. but we will see

I have installed the Neptune apex and Triton and calibrated the unit And I have Taken the 1st reading of the new Parameters with the triton. (See screenshot below of the Triton results screen)

Installing the Triton and Calibration

View attachment 1797090

The Triton is reading:

Alk -6.04

Calc -392

Mag -1449

Salt- 19.1

Temp -78.3

ORP -332

View attachment 1797091



PH-I need a new pH probe as the current on is not showing a reading. this will come later

Results conclusion- something is off with the salt I need to adjuster the probe. Alk is reading around 1.0 less then Manuel kits ( Manual test kits results below. Calcium and Magnesium are on track with Manuel kits. Need to raise Alk to 8.4. Magnesium are at good levels and calcium need to come up to 450

I have also tested at the same time with my Manuel test kits (see pic below to check the levels against the triton and to also check n03 and po4)

For my test kits I use

Alk- Salifert

Calcium- Salifert

Mag- Salifert

No3- Red sea pro high range

Po4- Red seal pro

View attachment 1797128


View attachment 1797094

Those test results are

Alk-7.0

Calc- 400

Mag- 1470

No3 64 (this is off the charts and will be a battle to bring down)

Po4-.04-.08

Salt 1.028

Temp 77.4

View attachment 1797096

po4 results

View attachment 1797099

no3 Results

View attachment 1797100

salinity results

View attachment 1797114

Results conclusion of Manuel test – Alk is 1.0 Higher than Triton test Need to Raise alk to 8.4. Mag and Calc are both in line with the triton test. Calc needs to come up to 450. *** the No3 is very high and this will be my main battle to bring down. Salt needs to come down to 1.026.

Stay tuned as I have also sent in a ICP triton test on the same day as the above was tested. It will be interesting to see how the levels compare to the Above. I also rely on triton to test Potassium, Iodine and other important levels as the manually test kits are a pain. I am expecting the triton back in about a week. I will also post shortly my method for raising Alk and Calc Ect to meet the needed levels. Then it will be an ongoing battle to reduce No3 which will be the next task and further posting.

As always, I welcome and encourage any questions that you all may have so don’t hold back and please ask.. for this build I am trying to replicate the same parameters and method from the main SPS system which is shown on the 1st post thread. I have been getting so many questions on my methods that i found it best to show how i replicate the SBB methods in this new build and i hope one day newcomers can follow this thread forum as a guide.
Shane
Love your post and your tanks.
Reading this for the first time so I don't know if this is brought up later, but I also use Salifert to test my alkalinity. And like you my ICP results (ATI) were 1 DKH lower than my Salifert.
Eventually noticed a post that included Randy, Jim Welsh and others that suggested the end point coloration for Salifert ALK test is lavender rather than the pink which Salifert recommended.
Further, another post suggested using blue (the color right after the green color) as the endpoint.
I found that using the "blue" result got a match with subsequent ICP results.
I can recall a few years ago when I (thought) I was keeping my ALK at 7 DKH, assuming the ICP results are accurate, it was really 6!
Seems kind of low, but my Acros showed nice polyp extension, compared to the so so extension since going to 8 DKH.
So wondering what you ultimately found and where you currently keep your ALK levels?
 
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Polyp polynomial: How many heads do you start with when buying zoas?

  • One head is enough to get started.

    Votes: 27 10.6%
  • 2 to 4 heads.

    Votes: 145 57.1%
  • 5 heads or more.

    Votes: 65 25.6%
  • Full colony.

    Votes: 10 3.9%
  • Other.

    Votes: 7 2.8%

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