HI700 Hanna LR Ammonia test cloudy; out of range results?

chonsworth

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I have an HI700 Hanna LR ammonia test kit, when I put the reagents in, the sample turns cloudy/milky (like a body fluid...). There's no discernible color like yellow.
I've run the test 3 times, each time I get the blinking 3.00 (out of range result).

To make sure I'm not crazy, I had my wife run the test twice as well with the same result.

I tried my Freshwater API Ammonia test (which appears to be same solution as the API saltwater) - and I get a big beautiful 0ppm yellow result.
I also tried my aquarium coop freshwater ammonia test strip (I don't typically use these but they're used for just such validations) - and that also comes up squeaky clean with nothing.

So... I'm at a loss of what the heck is going on?
Why am I getting radically different (and concerning) results with this kit?
 

killer2001

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HI700 Hanna LR Ammonia is "Freshwater Only".

1681881961689.png
 

gbroadbridge

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I have an HI700 Hanna LR ammonia test kit, when I put the reagents in, the sample turns cloudy/milky (like a body fluid...). There's no discernible color like yellow.
I've run the test 3 times, each time I get the blinking 3.00 (out of range result).

To make sure I'm not crazy, I had my wife run the test twice as well with the same result.

I tried my Freshwater API Ammonia test (which appears to be same solution as the API saltwater) - and I get a big beautiful 0ppm yellow result.
I also tried my aquarium coop freshwater ammonia test strip (I don't typically use these but they're used for just such validations) - and that also comes up squeaky clean with nothing.

So... I'm at a loss of what the heck is going on?
Why am I getting radically different (and concerning) results with this kit?

You do realise that the HI700 is only for freshwater and not suitable for salt water?

edit: Oops, killer2001 already said that :)
 
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brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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want to just use updated cycling science to discern your ammonia status vs any testing? we sure can, if you're dealing in a display reef tank specifically.

post a pic of your setup, I'll ask a couple questions if the pic doesn't answer them already, and we will know:

are you in need of ammonia control help or not

in a reef display, once we discern you aren't in need of ammonia control help, per updated cycling science you'll never need to test that tank again for ammonia as long as it has water in it. There's only one time ammonia won't be in control, in a running normal reef display, and that's when disease or human error/hardware error killed all your fish and you left them in to rot. removing the dead fish will reinstate ammonia control in under an hour.

ammonia control in a reef display after cycling is solely tied to whether or not your setup is littered in dead fish, and no ammonia testing is required to discern that. Ammonia doesn't rise before a fish kill to cause it/it rises strictly only after.

if this isn't a reef display we still have some interesting ways to work your setup without testing, but displays are an absolute gimme in the matter, ammonia testing simply isn't needed to run a reef tank.
 
AS

Matt_B-aqua

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I have an HI700 Hanna LR ammonia test kit, when I put the reagents in, the sample turns cloudy/milky (like a body fluid...). There's no discernible color like yellow.
I've run the test 3 times, each time I get the blinking 3.00 (out of range result).

To make sure I'm not crazy, I had my wife run the test twice as well with the same result.

I tried my Freshwater API Ammonia test (which appears to be same solution as the API saltwater) - and I get a big beautiful 0ppm yellow result.
I also tried my aquarium coop freshwater ammonia test strip (I don't typically use these but they're used for just such validations) - and that also comes up squeaky clean with nothing.

So... I'm at a loss of what the heck is going on?
Why am I getting radically different (and concerning) results with this kit?
So I've had this problem today. I have freshwater tanks, today I tested my friend's water sample who also has freshwater tanks. I did everything like I've done before and my test have been spot on accurate, but when I did his test it came up c1 wich is normal. But then reads L.LO I.e low light according to manual. So then did 2 test samples of the same water sample. I then put 4 drops of reagent A that was cloudy almost like a bloom colour. I then put 4 drops of reagent B in and then it turned cloudy like a milky colour will attach a picture to compare it with what you had. But still don't know what's happening
 

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Randy Holmes-Farley

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I don't know what happened, but that amount of precipitate would cerainly prevent any usefulness of the test.
 

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