Help with ICP Results

temple2101

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Looking for help on my latest ICP results. This is only the 2nd time I've done an ICP test (both from ATI) and the first one done in February of 2023 was fairly normal with only iodine being critically low. I decided to do another ICP test recently as I went almost a full year without a water change, only dosing All For Reef. I was a bit surprised to see the results, but I did make some changes recently and something has led to all my montipora (bubblegum digi and a few encrusting montis like sunset) looking bad. The digis have little to no polyp extension now, though color seems OK, and the enscrusting montis seem to be dying except for one. They're losing color and tissue. All other coral (mostly SPS and zoas) look fine. Here's the changes I've made recently:
  1. Added sand to convert from bare bottom
  2. Added a 4 bulb T5 hybrid fixture to supplement 2 XR15 G5 LEDs
  3. Started doing small (<10%) water changes every 2 weeks with Tropic Marin Pro Reef salt
  4. Added a few small caribsea life rock pieces
I have an Apogee MQ-510 par meter so I've validated that I'm not cooking the tank with the added T5s. Any thoughts on what might be causing the issues with the montis and any overall advice on the ICP results and what I should be concerned with? Note that the high silicon is from my DI resin not being changed in over 6 months, that has already been corrected as my RODI water was sky high.

20240909_ICP1.png

20240909_ICP2.png

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Randy Holmes-Farley

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The results show the issues that will arise from a single all in one used without water changes or adjusting dosing for the specific tank.

I’m not sure whether any of these are a big deal, but what size tank is this? Some water changes might be a good idea, but if the tank is large, individual dosing of some items (such as potassium) may be easier.
 
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temple2101

temple2101

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The results show the issues that will arise from a single all in one used without water changes or adjusting dosing for the specific tank.

I’m not sure whether any of these are a big deal, but what size tank is this? Some water changes might be a good idea, but if the tank is large, individual dosing of some items (such as potassium) may be easier.

No water changes is one of those things that in hindsight just wasn’t a good idea, especially going so long between ICP tests.

The tank is 50 gallons with a 40 gallon basement sump. Only about 65 gallons of water though. I think I’m going to do some small but more frequent water changes to see if things improve over the next 30 days and then send off for another test.
 

Uncle99

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The results look good to me except for a bit high CA and a bit low Potassium.

They set CA at 409, which to me is low, I run 450-465ppm with no issues. Your is high, buts not critical IMM.

You’ve added lighting, then see some issues, so maybe just coincidence?
 

killer2001

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I noticed negative effects in my tank when potassium dropped below 370. I would bump up potassium to 400 at least. I like to keep mine around 420 just for a little extra comfort in case it drops too low between testing intervals.

You also may need to incorporate a manganese and iron dosing regime if you have not already. These are just the things I would work on if I received your ICP results.
 

Reefahholic

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They set CA at 409, which to me is low, I run 450-465ppm with no issues. Your is high, buts not critical IMM.

Calculated off Salinity value

I noticed negative effects in my tank when potassium dropped below 370. I would bump up potassium to 400 at least.

Absolutely. It can STN certain SPS at that level. He needs to get that element up. That is probably the most concerning value on this analysis.
 

Reefahholic

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It’s not too bad. Ignore that “critically high” Sr value. It’s fine. I keep mine at 10 mg/L.

Boost your K back to 400-410 first. That’s probably where your issues are coming from. Also correct F and B. F will take several days of corrections. Probably 7-8 days..

Also, water changes would be helpful too boost some of the ultra trace elements if you have a good salt, but they’re probably there… just under the LLOD for this machine.
 

Reefahholic

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You also may need to incorporate a manganese and iron dosing regime if you have not already. These are just the things I would work on if I received your ICP results.

That machine won’t be able to detect them (at least accurately w/o noise) until they’re overdosed at like 2-3 ug/L.
 
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temple2101

temple2101

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Thanks, all! I have a Potassium test kit and Brightwell Potassium coming today as it’s what I could get quickly. I will raise it over the next 2-3 days and monitor more closely going forward. I use Tropic Marin Pro Reef salt and will get back into a consistent water change schedule. Lesson learned!
 
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temple2101

temple2101

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Just wanted to report back that I've increased K to ~400 and have done a couple of 10-20% water changes. I've seen no change in the montis in the tank. Everything else either looks great, or at least much better than the montis. Any thoughts on what I should pursue? The bubblegum digi used to have good PE and color, but now PE is very poor.

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ocboat

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Did you acclimate the corals to the new T5 lighting at all by starting with a short duration?

Edit: I missed the part where you used a PAR meter to measure the output of the new light however 4 new T5 lights would be a significant increase in light.
 
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temple2101

temple2101

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Did you acclimate the corals to the new T5 lighting at all by starting with a short duration?

Edit: I missed the part where you used a PAR meter to measure the output of the new light however 4 new T5 lights would be a significant increase in light.
I did. I started off with 1 hour on the T5s, then increased 10 mins per day until I reached 7 hours total. Along with this, I backed off the LEDs from 70% to 40% schedule intensity. My goal wasn't to dramatically increase par, it was to decrease shadowing and I'm just a fan of the overall look of T5s. My par at the top is 300-350 and 150-200 at the sand bed in a 16" tall tank.
 

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