Help with an ID and solving this problem.

[Adam.derrick.100]

I have done everything I know to get rid of this stuff. Is this cyano? Second; after 3 complete cleanings, 5 water changes, filter replacements, upgrading power heads, a 48 hour blackout period, cutting feedings to every other day and cutting the lights back to 5 hours a day I can’t get rid of this stuff. Could someone confirm what’s in the image and can someone tell me how to get rid it it?

Thx
AD

 

[Tahoe61]

Hi and welcome to R2R.

How old is the tank?

Looks like cyano to me.

How large is the tank and what flow type please.

 

[A-dawg]

So I had the identical thing and for me it was having 0 phosphate. I was originally using a ati test kit and for nitrate and phosphate which can’t read accurate close to 0. I ended up getting a salifert nitrate kit and a Hanna ulr phoshate checker and my phosphate was 0 and my nitrates were about 0 or .1. I dosed a small amount of phosphate and nitrate both seachem brands and in two weeks I had a clean tank.

FYI I did everything you did plus use chemiclean which killed half of my coral. I was so so so happy after this! I always thought it was Cyano but i actually think it was dinos which thrive in 0 nutrient conditions. Man check those two numbers but you HAVE to use a high quality kit that can test down to 0

 

[A-dawg]

Like I said everything points to cyano but Dino’s can look the same at times. I know I was wrong because the chemiclean didn’t work. You can get a 30$ microscope from amazon and confirm what it is which or worth the money.

 

[Adam.derrick.100]

Hi and welcome to R2R.

How old is the tank?

Looks like cyano to me.

How large is the tank and what flow type please.

3 months old. I have been following the BRS and WWC hybrid system for the setup.

 

[Adam.derrick.100]

So I had the identical thing and for me it was having 0 phosphate. I was originally using a ati test kit and for nitrate and phosphate which can’t read accurate close to 0. I ended up getting a salifert nitrate kit and a Hanna ulr phoshate checker and my phosphate was 0 and my nitrates were about 0 or .1. I dosed a small amount of phosphate and nitrate both seachem brands and in two weeks I had a clean tank.

FYI I did everything you did plus use chemiclean which killed half of my coral. I was so so so happy after this! I always thought it was Cyano but i actually think it was dinos which thrive in 0 nutrient conditions. Man check those two numbers but you HAVE to use a high quality kit that can test down to 0

I’m holding off on chemiclean for the last ditch effort.

 

[Adam.derrick.100]

I’m holding off on chemiclean for the last ditch effort.

I do need to upgrade and get a hanachecker.

 

[Subsea]

So I had the identical thing and for me it was having 0 phosphate. I was originally using a ati test kit and for nitrate and phosphate which can’t read accurate close to 0. I ended up getting a salifert nitrate kit and a Hanna ulr phoshate checker and my phosphate was 0 and my nitrates were about 0 or .1. I dosed a small amount of phosphate and nitrate both seachem brands and in two weeks I had a clean tank.

FYI I did everything you did plus use chemiclean which killed half of my coral. I was so so so happy after this! I always thought it was Cyano but i actually think it was dinos which thrive in 0 nutrient conditions. Man check those two numbers but you HAVE to use a high quality kit that can test down to 0

@A-dawg
I agree with the three post that you made on this thread. I do question you connecting ChemiClean with 50% coral mortality. I have used ChemiClean back to back treatments with no ill defects. Did you syphon out dead slime with gravel vac?

 

[Adam.derrick.100]

Hi and welcome to R2R.

How old is the tank?

Looks like cyano to me.

How large is the tank and what flow type please.

Sorry was in a rush when I replied last. I have 2 mp10’s running in lagoon mode at half power and it’s the BioCube32. 33 gallons

 

[A-dawg]

I can never say with 100% certainty it was the chemiclean but I had not changed or done anything and about 5 days after using it my corals started to close up and slowly wither. They just didn’t look the same ever again and half withered away to the point they died. I know it is supposed to be reef safe but if you really start searching the forums there is a lot of people that report the same things. It’s possible when the tank is not really mature and not in peak condition that the chemiclean pushes it over the edge. Like I said when I started doing a lot of search’s I found a lot of people saying they had coral issues or death after chemiclean

To the OP, my tank was new also when I had identical issues as you. I think it’s something to think about. If you do a lot of research on dinos there is a big link to 0 nutrient tanks. People will say cyano will come and to over time and with different conditions, but Dino’s is usually a new tank symptom where nutrients haven’t built up in the sand etc. It might be something different but what you wrote just was deja vu to what I was going through.