Help preparing for my build… Benefits vs negatives of thicker glass

[mmorrison55]

I’m currently in the early design phase of a custom waterbox tank. Originally, I was looking at a ~200 gallon tank, but after hearing how much the ongoing upkeep cost for a larger tank (approx $1 per gallon on avg). I’m thinking now of going to a tank about 1/2 that size. ~100 gallon.

When I submitted my request to waterbox, they got back to me with the cost and it’s a lot less than I expected, but noticed the build is for 12 mm (1/2 inches) vs 19 mm (3/4 inch) of the larger tank.

I realize for sake of holding the water in the tank, that 3/4 inch glass is not structurally required on a 100 gallon tank, but would there be any benefit or drawback to using thicker glass?

I’m thinking pros might be more crack or chip resistant. Aesthetically it would look “beefier”and perhaps more custom. And for the negative aspects, of course the cost would go up, and there is some argument that distortion would be increased.

Any other positives or negatives that you guys can think of?

Thanks for any feedback,

Mike

 

[BZOFIQ]

Benefit of the panel being thick is at least 2 fold, no bowing and thicker gluing area (patch) for stronger silicone seams.

Drawback is the extra weight that will make it harder to carry into place. Additionally, only few powerheads can properly attach through 3/4" glass.

Hope this helps.

 

[GARRIGA]

Grandchildren and their toy missiles

 

[College_Reefer]

My IM 100 EXT has 3/4 in glass, and I can confirm it makes it one heavy s.o.b to move. The plus is that you don't need euro bracing or anything like that. However, the biggest negative I've found is it truly limits a lot of your options in terms of magnet cleaners, acclimation boxes, powerheads/gyres, and even some brackets for stuff like auto feeders due to magnet strength and overall thickness.

 

[mmorrison55]

Benefit of the panel being thick is at least 2 fold, no bowing and thicker gluing area (patch) for stronger silicone seams.

Drawback is the extra weight that will make it harder to carry into place. Additionally, only few powerheads can properly attach through 3/4" glass.

Hope this helps.

Thanks. I didn’t think about the silicone seam being stronger, but that makes sense as there would be more surface area to bond the two pieces of glass. Possibly less chance of coming undone and leaking in the future.

 

[BZOFIQ]

Thanks. I didn’t think about the silicone seem being stronger, but that makes sense as ther would be more surface area to bond the two pieces of glass. Possibly less chance of coming undone and leaking in the future.

Yep, that's why when I had my 270G built, I requested 19mm glass for the sides and had a brace around the bottom. My side seams are about 1" thick and the bottom seam is way over 1.25" thick.

 

[mmorrison55]

The plus is that you don't need euro bracing or anything like that

I was actually thinking of going with a one piece eurobrace. I like the look based on other tanks I’ve seen, plus I like the idea that it helps reduce the salt creep that rimless tanks can be known for. I’m not sure how much of a problem or issue salt creep really is though, just something I’ve read on the forums.

 

[College_Reefer]

I was actually thinking of going with a one piece eurobrace. I like the look based on other tanks I’ve seen, plus I like the idea that it helps reduce the salt creep that rimless tanks can be known for. I’m not sure how much of a problem or issue salt creep really is though, just something I’ve read on the forums.

Entirely fair! I honestly don't have experience with euro brace tanks, I only have a preference on no euro bracing simply because I don't like the look as much. I couldn't comment on their ability to reduce salt creep but I can tell you that I don't have any in my tank.

 

[Extremeengineer]

However, the biggest negative I've found is it truly limits a lot of your options in terms of magnet cleaners, acclimation boxes, powerheads/gyres, and even some brackets for stuff like auto feeders due to magnet strength and overall thickness.

This. From an engineering standpoint, you don't need 3/4" on a 100g. Maybe you like the way it looks, but it just isn't necessary. The 1/2" already has a safety factor built in, waterbox may be willing to tell you how much, but I would not want to trade off the much broader accessory compatibility for an unnecessarily high safety factor.

 

[mmorrison55]

Entirely fair! I honestly don't have experience with euro brace tanks, I only have a preference on no euro bracing simply because I don't like the look as much. I couldn't comment on their ability to reduce salt creep but I can tell you that I don't have any in my tank.

Oh really? I thought that was a common problem with rimless tanks.

Do you stay on top of it and wipe your outer glass down a lot at the top? Or does it need to be scraped to keep the salt from building up?

Also, as bzofiq mentions about the silicone seam being stronger due to the added surface area, I also wonder if a euro brace wouldn’t increase the bond to help the 4 walls staying together long term. I assume that was the main purpose of them in the 1st place.

 

[College_Reefer]

Oh really? I thought that was a common problem with rimless tanks.

Do you stay on top of it and wipe your outer glass down a lot at the top? Or does it need to be scraped to keep the salt from building up?

Also, as bzofiq mentions about the silicone seam being stronger due to the added surface area, I also wonder if a euro brace wouldn’t increase the bond to help the 4 walls staying together long term. I assume that was the main purpose of them in the 1st place.

The only salt I get on the glass or the rim of the glass is from me spilling when filling up my Hanna vials since I use that thick glass to line them up lol. But in all seriousness, I very rarely if ever have to wipe it down and pretty confidently can say it isn't because its rimless

 

[BZOFIQ]

This. From an engineering standpoint, you don't need 3/4" on a 100g. Maybe you like the way it looks, but it just isn't necessary. The 1/2" already has a safety factor built in, waterbox may be willing to tell you how much, but I would not want to trade off the much broader accessory compatibility for an unnecessarily high safety factor.

True, On my custom euro-braced 270 I only have 19mm (3/4") glass on bottom, rear (because of 4 large overflow holes) and sides (by request to increase silicone patch width)

The front which is 83x25 is actually 15mm thick - zero bowing.

 

[BZOFIQ]

True, On my custom euro-braced 270 I only have 19mm (3/4") glass on bottom, rear (because of 4 large overflow holes) and sides (by request to increase silicone patch width)

The front which is 83x25 is actually 15mm thick - zero bowing.

BTW, I use Reef Octopus Octo Pulse 4 powerheads on this build with great results. This powerhead doesnt get the credit it deserves. One can also use OP2 on up to 21mm glass with optional strong magnet bought separately from CV.

 

[mmorrison55]

BTW, I use Reef Octopus Octo Pulse 4 powerheads on this build with great results. This powerhead doesnt get the credit it deserves. One can also use OP2 on up to 21mm glass with optional strong magnet bought separately from CV.

Thanks. Will keep the reef octo power heads in mind when it comes time.