Help me with these numbers

[laezur]

I don’t usually test but I’m trying to get my tank into a position it can support SPS so it’s necessary, and I wanted some help with my current readings, this is my first set of tests only for nitrate and phosphate, definitely elevated. LPS are enjoying it, but I want to Bring these down

Niterate between 30-50 ppm
Phosphate 0.1

To put some things into context, I change about 15% water every Saturday, with Coral Pro Salt, I do not run the skimmer currently (broken and expensive to replace), I do run 12 hours of sump lighting to a very small DIY refugium with chaeto and live rock in the sump. I feed 1 cube of mysis and 1 cube of brine per day, I cut them in half and mix and feed half a cube of each in the morning and half a cube of each in the night.

I currently have an algae problem on the back wall and on the tops of the rocks where the highest amount of light is. I’ve just added 6 more turbos and 6 more hermits with 2 urchins.

Thanks!

P.S does anyone have recommendations for a skimmer purchase on the Red Sea 170? My Magus curve 5, when it was working, was never at the correct water depth and always produced micro bubbles

 

[Uncle99]

I might bring that nitrate down to 5-10ppm and leave phosphate at .1ppm
You’ll need to maintain Alk around 10-11dkh (your salt mix) CA in the 430-450ppm and solid MG at 1400 ish.
To move to stoneys, all this chemistry interacts so all must remain stable.

 

[laezur]

I might bring that nitrate down to 5-10ppm and leave phosphate at .1ppm
You’ll need to maintain Alk around 10-11dkh (your salt mix) CA in the 430-450ppm and solid MG at 1400 ish.
To move to stoneys, all this chemistry interacts so all must remain stable.

Will the regular weekly water changes maintain this Alk or do I need to look at purchasing something to do so? CA and MG I imagine also replenish but I’ll start testing those with my next change to see how much is being used

 

[Uncle99]

At the beginning, the water change should suffice, especially using coral pro (I’ve used the same forever) and light coral load.

You’ll need to watch Alk weekly, before the WC change to ensure that it does not flux much. Alk is super important and it’s level and flux affects other chemistry.

As you add stoneys, you’ll come to a point whereas your WC just doesn’t keep you on point.

Then you’ll need to add ALK and CA manually daily, to maintain.

Then once you get some manual history of dose amount, you can use a doser to deliver it on the hour.

I just use a Jebao DP4 cost $80 running hourly for 5 years now.

It keeps Alk, at any time, at 180-185ppm, day in day out.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I don’t usually test but I’m trying to get my tank into a position it can support SPS so it’s necessary, and I wanted some help with my current readings, this is my first set of tests only for nitrate and phosphate, definitely elevated. LPS are enjoying it, but I want to Bring these down

Niterate between 30-50 ppm
Phosphate 0.1

To put some things into context, I change about 15% water every Saturday, with Coral Pro Salt, I do not run the skimmer currently (broken and expensive to replace), I do run 12 hours of sump lighting to a very small DIY refugium with chaeto and live rock in the sump. I feed 1 cube of mysis and 1 cube of brine per day, I cut them in half and mix and feed half a cube of each in the morning and half a cube of each in the night.

I currently have an algae problem on the back wall and on the tops of the rocks where the highest amount of light is. I’ve just added 6 more turbos and 6 more hermits with 2 urchins.

Thanks!

P.S does anyone have recommendations for a skimmer purchase on the Red Sea 170? My Magus curve 5, when it was working, was never at the correct water depth and always produced micro bubbles

The nitrate high for coral ( you want <15-20 and phos is at acceptable max in some cases - advised is normally .04-.08
Assure youre not getting false readings and increase water changes and even add media such as rowaphos

 

[KKY]

How many fish do you have? I might reduce feeding a bit if possible. And change your filter sock/pad more often (if you are using one). You can run sump light 24/7, I keep mine always on and don’t see any issue.

 

[laezur]

The nitrate high for coral ( you want <15-20 and phos is at acceptable max in some cases - advised is normally .04-.08
Assure youre not getting false readings and increase water changes and even add media such as rowaphos

I have some phosi-ex in there right now and marine snow on hand that I don’t use, but all of that won’t touch the nitrates, will it? I assume my high nitrates are mostly down to the lack of skimming

 

[laezur]

How many fish do you have? I might reduce feeding a bit if possible. And change your filter sock/pad more often (if you are using one). You can run sump light 24/7, I keep mine always on and don’t see any issue.

Currently have 6 fish. I could reduce feeding, I recently upped feeding to see if my clowns would produce offspring and I just like keeping them fat and healthy

 

[Uncle99]

I have some phosi-ex in there right now and marine snow on hand that I don’t use, but all of that won’t touch the nitrates, will it? I assume my high nitrates are mostly down to the lack of skimming

I would agree with your assessment.
Or more macro algae or longer light time, or both.
I’d maintain feeding and work with the nutrient export side of the equation.

 

[KKY]

Currently have 6 fish. I could reduce feeding, I recently upped feeding to see if my clowns would produce offspring and I just like keeping them fat and healthy

Got it, I also like to keep them fed. But with your current system less feeding may be necessary until you have fast enough nutrients export

 

[biom]

Magus Curve 5 is a good budget skimmer and I think they solved micro bubbles issues with the newer models.