Help! Is my retailer trustworthy?

[Zionas]

My retailer in China seems like a very nice guy who’s extremely patient with me. He always takes time to answer my questions whenever he’s convenient, he never gets upset or impatient when I ask too much. Definitely has a great attitude.

However, today I asked him some questions about QT procedures for fish and livestock. Now, it would be a dream for me to have a tank like Paul B’s. However, he has 40+ years experience. I’ve got exactly zero.

My retailer recommends I use RO / DI over tap water, which I know is the best solution.

Regarding quarantine, he thinks for smaller fish usually 3-5 days is enough. As long as they’re healthy and eating well, and a healthy specimen is chosen, QT may not even be that necessary for many smaller fish up to 5”. He also says the FW dip is usually to remove flukes from bigger fish, that it may actually kill many smaller fish. Regarding medication, he says it’s best not to use any medication unless absolutely necessary for many smaller fish, as it may kill them.

Now, this guy has a great attitude but is he trustworthy? Should I take his advice? If not, I’d really appreciate it if someone can walk me through a complete and thorough QT procedure for livestock, including what medications to use. My QT tank will be around 10-15 gallons.


Regarding fish, he has strongly advised me to stay away from butterflies for an 85-gallon (my tank) or even a 100-gallon tank or just in general. I plan to add 2-3 Talbot’s / Azure Damsels but he thinks other than Chromis, all other damsels are aggressive though Talbot’s / YT Blue / Azure / Rolland’s / Springer’s / Starcki’s seem to be the exception to the norm per consensus on most Western forums I’ve read including this one.

He thinks my other selections of fish are all on the easy side: Halichoeres wrasses, Yellow Candy Hogfish, Clowns (Ocellaris), YWG, the Royal Gramma, and dwarf angels (he suggests CB, Flame, Half Black, Rusty, one of the pygmies). He strongly warns against any predatory species such as the Marine Betta, Lionfish, or Anglers. He seems to disagree that uronema is prevalent among BG Reef Chromis and Chromis in general but from what I’ve read on Western sites, uronema is a big killer and C. Virdi are their main carrier. Some have advised me to steer clear of Chromis altogether.

He rates the Pacific Peppermint Hogfish harder to keep than the Yellow Candy. He thinks RG, Yellow Assessor, and Swissguard are OK. He’s also advised against Tangs for a beginner due to tank size and Marine ich. I need to ask him about whether he advocates using fish to cycle a tank but I am personally adamantly opposed to it. Water and LR, maybe some inverts?

As for cycling the tank he feels 3-4 weeks is enough, but I’m on the bit more cautious side and I’d give it 4-5 or even 5-6. Should I listen to him?

I’ve really come across some crap spewing dealers / sellers in China. One of them not only believes it’s OK to put a tang in a 75-80 gallon tank, but even advocates using tangs to cycle a tank! Now that’s..

 

[Crustaceon]

I don’t think he’s too far off as sometimes the QT can be pretty stressful on fish depending on what you’re medicating them with, especially if it involves copper. For new fish though, it’s not so bad though as they typically act healthy and eat within the first few days of being in QT. I always prefer feeding medicated food versus having the fish swim in a soup of medication. It just seems to be less stress-inducing. When I QT new fish, I feed them foods soaked in metroplex + kanaplex and focus. I’m mainly concerned with internal parasites which the metro will take care of. Kanaplex will take care of many of the bacterial issues a fish can develop due to the stress of being introduced to a new tank. Personally, I don’t think a week in QT is long enough unless you plan on continuing medicated feedings in the display for several weeks afterwards. If parasites are involved, you’ll need to medicate for nearly a month to break the lifecycle and it’s just much easier to do that in a QT than in your display. The additional patience is worth it.

 

[Chefwheredyougo]

I'd agree with most of it. As far as predators go, I have a marine betta, it isn't a problem with smaller fish, but ate both of my skunk shrimp. She doesn't eat anything but live shrimp. I've tried all kinds of meaty foods, and no bueno.
For the cycle, that may be long enough, imo, but testing is the only way to know for sure. Start with table shrimp instead of a fish. Damsels are the devil. I had 4, now I have 2 and they terrorize the tank. Luckily, everything is bigger than they are, so when they go on a tear something usually corrects that behavior for them.
Rodi is the best choice, and medicated foods have done best for me. I also FW dip all fish for 5 minutes, regardless of size and have yet to lose anything

 

[Zionas]

I’m thinking of keeping 2-3 Talbot’s or Azure Damsels with a pair of Ocellaris clowns, a Royal Gramma, a Yellow Watchman Goby, and a dwarf angel in an 85-gallon. It’ll be 7-8 fish. Will I be overstocked? And what is the best order to introduce these fish in your opinion?

 

[Zionas]

I’m thinking of keeping 2-3 Talbot’s or Azure Damsels with a pair of Ocellaris clowns, a Royal Gramma, a Yellow Watchman Goby, and a dwarf angel in an 85-gallon. It’ll be 7-8 fish. Will I be overstocked? And what is the best order to introduce these fish in your opinion?

 

[ThRoewer]

... As far as predators go, I have a marine betta, it isn't a problem with smaller fish, but ate both of my skunk shrimp. She doesn't eat anything but live shrimp. I've tried all kinds of meaty foods, and no bueno...

All the marine Bettas I have (and had) eat frozen, flakes, and pick pods like mandarins.
Here one of my pairs eating flakes:

 

[Chefwheredyougo]

All the marine Bettas I have (and had) eat frozen, flakes, and pick pods like mandarins.
Here one of my pairs eating flakes:

I know its possible, just could never get mine to do it. I guess I was more pointing out feeding issues that you MAY face with them.

 

[Chefwheredyougo]

I’m thinking of keeping 2-3 Talbot’s or Azure Damsels with a pair of Ocellaris clowns, a Royal Gramma, a Yellow Watchman Goby, and a dwarf angel in an 85-gallon. It’ll be 7-8 fish. Will I be overstocked? And what is the best order to introduce these fish in your opinion?

I think you will be fine. I'd add the goby first, angel, gramma, damsels, clowns. Maybe clowns before damsels.

 

[PatW]

I think he is wrong on quarantine. In my view, quarantine has two purposes.

The first is seeing that the fish is disease free. To do this, you really need to quarantine for weeks unless you medicate. He is right about medication. A frail fish can succumb to it.

The other purpose of quarantine is to assume your new fish is stressed from all the travel. You put them in a nice little place. You get them feeding and used to your foods. And you fatten them up. Often a new fish is the new kid on the block in a display tank and they get bullied. That can kill a weakened fish.