HELP! Battling tissue necrosis of my SPS!

[sullivansp]

Something I've observed in my tank is that SPS don't immediately change due to a large, stressful event. They usually show 1-2 weeks later. Once you notice your SPS looking poorly, look back a week or two for the trigger event.

Excellent tip! In that case I will be taking more detailed notes in my aquarium log about the current conditions and changes to my husbandry. I typically only record pictures and parameters but rarely any other details unless I am having issues (STN, algae, strange animal behavior, etc).

 

[schuby]

Excellent tip! In that case I will be taking more detailed notes in my aquarium log about the current conditions and changes to my husbandry. I typically only record pictures and parameters but rarely any other details unless I am having issues (STN, algae, strange animal behavior, etc).

LOL! I'm the same. I intend to record if I've changed anything, but I don't always do it. The other side of that is if we record everything we do or see each day, then there's too much to look through to notice a change.

 

[sullivansp]

LOL! I'm the same. I intend to record if I've changed anything, but I don't always do it. The other side of that is if we record everything we do or see each day, then there's too much to look through to notice a change.

Yes exactly! It sometimes feels as though I’m going overboard if I record every minute detail but in times like this I kick myself. In my opinion, having an overwhelming amount of data isn’t necessarily a bad thing. It just depends on my patience and ability to process it all.

 

[HolySmoke]

Just speaking from my personal experience here and definitely agree with the first two suggestions that Chemistry, nutrients and lighting are immensely intertwined. I would never run AlK above 9 unless I had chronic low ph AND crazy high nutrients. I personally shoot for 7.75 410 1350.

My opinion is don't increase nutrients but instead do a 40% water change now since your salt is close to your current levels (fix any Ionic/trace imbalances/possible metals) and then let everything fall to NSW levels slowly and naturally. This is assuming your make up water is PURE. Change one thing at a time and do it slowly.

Second thing I want to add is there are a lot of trace elements that are critical to Acropora basic life functions/gas exchange. Lugols Iodine, potassium, strontium, iron are all important and will be depleted in a growing reef with calcification. Watch the algae on the glass If its not growing you are limited by something and your acros will die a slow death. Watch for coralline algae you should be seeing new tiny spots everyday especially near the water surface.

I would also note to be careful if you are using GAC. If you have even the smallest amount of yellowing compounds in the water and use too much/aggressive carbon you can burn tips VERY easily from increase in water clarity/light penetration/spectrum shift and that will take weeks to recover from. Either use constantly and replace frequently or not at all IMO.

Lastly I am shocked by your nutrient levels by all the fish food and coral food you are feeding which severely pollutes the water. I would stop all the pellets, flakes and reefroids personally and just double your frozen food (PE Mysis/Hikari Mysis spirulina) and maybe a little Aminos at night couple hours after lights out for nitrogen. Reefroids can spike phosphates FAST. Your rocks and sand (aragonite) will suck up all the po4 until it is saturated and then you will have serious issues. I suspect this is what's happening but as the levels fall in the water column it will slowly leech back out and be a buffer. That is why I suggest avoiding foods high in phosphate and let the tank stabilize on its own. Natural is always the best way and don't chase numbers chase results.

Sorry for the novel but wish someone gave me all that advice in 2010 when I thought I was an acropora savant with my Calcium Reactor in my parents basement. Search YouTube for a channel called Coral Euphoria. Abe is a very smart Acropora keeper and his videos are top notch. Clear and to the point.

 

[sullivansp]

Just speaking from my personal experience here and definitely agree with the first two suggestions that Chemistry, nutrients and lighting are immensely intertwined. I would never run AlK above 9 unless I had chronic low ph AND crazy high nutrients. I personally shoot for 7.75 410 1350.

My opinion is don't increase nutrients but instead do a 40% water change now since your salt is close to your current levels (fix any Ionic/trace imbalances/possible metals) and then let everything fall to NSW levels slowly and naturally. This is assuming your make up water is PURE. Change one thing at a time and do it slowly.

Second thing I want to add is there are a lot of trace elements that are critical to Acropora basic life functions/gas exchange. Lugols Iodine, potassium, strontium, iron are all important and will be depleted in a growing reef with calcification. Watch the algae on the glass If its not growing you are limited by something and your acros will die a slow death. Watch for coralline algae you should be seeing new tiny spots everyday especially near the water surface.

I would also note to be careful if you are using GAC. If you have even the smallest amount of yellowing compounds in the water and use too much/aggressive carbon you can burn tips VERY easily from increase in water clarity/light penetration/spectrum shift and that will take weeks to recover from. Either use constantly and replace frequently or not at all IMO.

Lastly I am shocked by your nutrient levels by all the fish food and coral food you are feeding which severely pollutes the water. I would stop all the pellets, flakes and reefroids personally and just double your frozen food (PE Mysis/Hikari Mysis spirulina) and maybe a little Aminos at night couple hours after lights out for nitrogen. Reefroids can spike phosphates FAST. Your rocks and sand (aragonite) will suck up all the po4 until it is saturated and then you will have serious issues. I suspect this is what's happening but as the levels fall in the water column it will slowly leech back out and be a buffer. That is why I suggest avoiding foods high in phosphate and let the tank stabilize on its own. Natural is always the best way and don't chase numbers chase results.

Sorry for the novel but wish someone gave me all that advice in 2010 when I thought I was an acropora savant with my Calcium Reactor in my parents basement. Search YouTube for a channel called Coral Euphoria. Abe is a very smart Acropora keeper and his videos are top notch. Clear and to the point.

Thank you for the excellent information and insight! Your detailed response is just what I needed to keep fighting this. Some of those things you mentioned I have never even considered such as the interplay of GAC and light dynamics.

My phosphate levels have indeed risen from the overfeeding but I think my large clean up crew and dense bristle worm population have kept the detritus breakdown in check til now. Also, I do have algae growing on the glass but rarely coralline except In the top corners where it’s hard to reach with a magnetic cleaner. I will definitely be keeping an eye out for these things now.

I look forward to checking out that YouTube channel you recommended. Thank you again and I really can’t overstate how fantastic your response was.

 

[HolySmoke]

Glad I could help out. As a tinkerer and a perfectionist myself it is very easy to over think things. Keep it simple and consistent. I just reread your post and It is very possible your chaeto stripped all iron out of the water. I think a large water change is in order. When levels fall I would absolutely switch to the blue bucket of Red sea or Tropic Marin Pro.

Everyone has differing opinions on nutrients and every tank is different so listen to your tank but...

I use a nyos kit for nitrates and it is hard to see any color change. (maybe 1 or 2 ppm) My hanna checker ULR usually very low. I rarely test my nutrients and just observe my corals colors, growth, and algae growth. I dose acropower at night and feed my fish heavy in the morning. Occasionally I will pour oyster feast into an mp60 and then immediately turn off flow. Ideally I would like nitrates at 5ppm for some cushion and have phosphates remain low.

In my opinion along as there is ANY amount available you will be fine as long as you are consistent with feedings and filtration.

Watch this video and you will understand why 2 part and not enough large waterchanges will become an issue at some point. I would 1000% drip/dose kalkwasser but only after your levels fall slowly. PH is a very good indicator of tank health if you have proper aeration and indoor co2 levels are within reason.

 

[gpwdr]

Causes and Treatment of Coral RTN (Rapid Tissue Necrosis) and STN

Coral tissue necrosis (RTN and STN) and coral bleaching are caused by an infection due to microscopic parasites. Treatment and prevention is availible.

coralrtn.com