having high nutrient can turn sps to different color?

[DQM5]

hey guys, so I have this red table acro, it was red at first and then it started to turn green on the base. is this from having nutrient or low light?

• Alk 7.7
• Cal 440
• No3- 0.25-1.00
• Po4- 0.25

I'm running AI Hydra 52hd about 8-9 inches above the water line.

1st and 2nd is picture is about 2 week ago and the 3rd pics is current, with orange filter.

also that's my light schedule, maybe too much white?

 

[nautical_nathaniel]

It can, varying levels of trace elements will also affect coloration in SPS corals, especially Acropora and Monitpora.

Lighting is also a factor in coloration, so it may be a combination of both.

 

[DQM5]

It can, varying levels of trace elements will also affect coloration in SPS corals, especially Acropora and Monitpora.

Lighting is also a factor in coloration, so it may be a combination of both.

It can, varying levels of trace elements will also affect coloration in SPS corals, especially Acropora and Monitpora.

Lighting is also a factor in coloration, so it may be a combination of both.

so having high nutrient doesn't play a factor in some sps color changing?

 

[nautical_nathaniel]

so having high nutrient doesn't play a factor in some sps color changing?

It can, high nutrients are known to "brown out" acropora. I know personally mine exhibit stronger reds and greens when nitrates are lower.

 

[DQM5]

It can, high nutrients are known to "brown out" acropora. I know personally mine exhibit stronger reds and greens when nitrates are lower.

oh ok, hmm maybe my nitrates are low, I noticed some of my other sps like pc rainbow turning green at the base and now its starting to shoot off yellow.

 

[Graffiti Spot]

I would not worry about color on fragments. They will change as they grow into a colony. Green in red corals is probably because of light. High nutrients will shift colors to colder deeper hues, not a whole color all together persay.

 

[Stephen Petruzzo]

I went through a small phase of high nutrients when I was switching from different nutrient export methods. My rose milli went from a nice pink to greenish around the base. When nutrients went down, the green disappeared and it was completely pink again

 

[Michael Llabona]

I'd say it's likely light related. My red planet is red up top, pink and green mid way, mostly green down low. Obviously this is specific to red planet but it could be a similar situation

 

[Monterey Bay Coral]

High phosphate can lead to this. I would try and lower it.

 

[DQM5]

I went through a small phase of high nutrients when I was switching from different nutrient export methods. My rose milli went from a nice pink to greenish around the base. When nutrients went down, the green disappeared and it was completely pink again

so many factors, I'll do a water change this weekend and feed less.

I'd say it's likely light related. My red planet is red up top, pink and green mid way, mostly green down low. Obviously this is specific to red planet but it could be a similar situation

the tip is pinkish red and the base turning green , the red table was on direct light for a week or so.

High phosphate can lead to this. I would try and lower it.

I think it might be high phosphate, Water change and feed less. Thinking of doing wet skim on the protein skimmer instead of dry skim

 

[29bonsaireef]

I have noticed high nutrients will lead to more greens or deep solid colors in corals. Multi tone corals will become more of one single color. This is with high light and high nutrients. Lower nutrients and high light will bring out the best natural colors, just my experience. I always expect frags to change colors as they grow, might just need time.

 

[jda]

More contrast and brighter color with lower N and P. Dark, saturated mono colors under higher N and P. To each their own.

You can do more to change the color of corals with lights than you can with nutrients.

I also like to have low nutrients and lots of quality light.

 

[DQM5]

More contrast and brighter color with lower N and P. Dark, saturated mono colors under higher N and P. To each their own.

You can do more to change the color of corals with lights than you can with nutrients.

I also like to have low nutrients and lots of quality light.

I'm gonna do a wc this weekend, my light schedule on top 4th pics. you think I should lower the whites?

 

[jda]

I am not a fan of LED over acropora, so I have no idea. I doubt that it will matter much. Adding a few T5s with fuller spectrum could do some wonders - it is higher quality of light that can color acropora better.

 

[Charlie’s Frags]

I have an sc 50 and a hydra 52 hd and I can’t believe you’re not melting your acros at those settings. I’ve had acros bleach at 75% blues , 10% White , 5% red and green and 30% Violet and UV.

 

[Charlie’s Frags]

I just noticed your peak time is only 4 hours, maybe that’s how they survive.

 

[DQM5]

I just noticed your peak time is only 4 hours, maybe that’s how they survive.

Yeah only 4 hours, hahaha nice man, 2 of my sps corals are turning green, which is weird. But I’m trying to lower my phosphate and see how that will do.

 

[DQM5]

Here is my pc rainbow. It was reddish brown at first and then after a month, it turned green. Now it is shooting off a red or yellow color.

 

[Hans-Werner]

Blue light, iron and phosphate enhance green fluorescent pigmentation in my experience. So it is rather too much blue than too much white.

 

[Luno]

Also was the frag encrusted? Imo acros usually turn green as a safety. After damage or after being fragged. Not all the time but I've seen it way too many times for it to be a coincidence.

So many reasons but I would put light and specific trace elements at the top of the list

Also I always find this article from reef builders an interesting read

https://reefbuilders.com/2008/09/03/guide-of-sps-coral-coloration-make-them-more-vivid-bright/