Harolds Noopsyche K7 testing with 'sticks

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TheHarold

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Note: I won the lights from the Noopsyche giveaway.


The fixtures got here really quickly from Noopsyche, and there weren't any quality control issues.

C0LIARf.jpg


The cord management is quite nice with the supplied mounting hardware. You may like to use a zip-tie or two though.

LnIQvOJ.jpg


Good quality connectors to be used near water- nice touch.

Yh23aQN.jpg



I assembled the stand mounts despite planning on not using them, and they were really stiff and good quality. Plastic near the tank, then the metal parts powder coated for protection.

Here I was making sure nothing would overheat and making sure everything functioned before putting them over my reef.

7IEWzVF.jpg


I have a rimless tank and like keeping it sleek. I felt that 6 light mounts would take away from that aesthetic, and made my own light mounting system.


Assembling the aluminum frame:

3yf4FeF.jpg



Painting:
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Lights mounted:
30p1xXy.jpg


And then above the tank!

M98kXwf.jpg


So far, they seem like really nice lights. I haven't checked with a par meter yet, but they are WAY more powerful than my old lighting- an 8 bulb t5 fixture. Their SPS program would have burned my corals to a crisp at that height!

One drawback I have noticed is the limited user interface using their controller. Although all the lights synced perfectly, you can only have 7 data points. After the "Off"and "On" points, 5 is somewhat limiting. In addition, the light goes instantly to the next setting, without any sort of transition or ramping. This should not effect corals, but is a bit disappointing given the 1% capabilities of the LEDs themselves; a "smoothing" option where it slowly changes to the next point over an amount of time would be nice. Or, I hope, @noopsyche will be able to offer an update with more data points so we can make smoother programs.

This is what I have now, but I have not tested with PAR meter yet. Just eyeballed based on my older program.

8H0VBAN.png


I will keep everyone updated on the coloration and health of my corals! @Dana Riddle Were your par readings at 100% on all channels? The white channel seems crazy bright to me compared to the T5s I have been running.
 
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TheHarold

TheHarold

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How do you know this?

At 100%, the tank was ridiculously bright compared to my 8 bulb fixture. It’s worth noting that my fixture primarily had blue plus bulbs, not coral plus, but this light was somewhat blinding in comparison. I turned the white level to 25% to make it something I was remotely comfortable with- but yeah, I need to par map this. Been busy with the holidays.
 

saltyfilmfolks

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Yea. Eyes are not good meters for brightness nor par.
Most folks actually underestimate the par af t5.
“T5 are easier” is common. It’s usually cuz the t5 gave 3x the par they had or changed to with led.
 
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TheHarold

TheHarold

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Yea. Eyes are not good meters for brightness nor par.
Most folks actually underestimate the par af t5.
“T5 are easier” is common. It’s usually cuz the t5 gave 3x the par they had or changed to with led.
Yea. Eyes are not good meters for brightness nor par.
Most folks actually underestimate the par af t5.
“T5 are easier” is common. It’s usually cuz the t5 gave 3x the par they had or changed to with led.

So I adjusted the settings so my sticks are getting ~350 par during daytime. So far so good; its been a week now and everything seems good: nothing browning out or bleaching.
 
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TheHarold

TheHarold

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@bubbaque you were the one that saved me regarding par. I raised my T5 fixture from 3 inches to 13 inches, and the colors just exploded!

Now I’m trying these Noopsyche lights, but at the same par :)
 

bubbaque

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@bubbaque you were the one that saved me regarding par. I raised my T5 fixture from 3 inches to 13 inches, and the colors just exploded!

Now I’m trying these Noopsyche lights, but at the same par :)
That’s awesome! You were blasting with light that’s for sure.
 

Gino

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Hi Harold, did you change your original settings? What are your new settings to get those new par? How high they are from the water line and from the bottom of the tank? Just to know what to do when mine arrive.
 
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TheHarold

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Hi Harold, did you change your original settings? What are your new settings to get those new par? How high they are from the water line and from the bottom of the tank? Just to know what to do when mine arrive.

Yes I changed my settings to get more PAR. Saltfilmfolks was correct, I didn’t have enough par on those settings. I pretty much doubled all of those settings to get my 350 halfway through the tank. The fixtures are ~10 inches above the waterline.
 

Gino

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Yes I changed my settings to get more PAR. Saltfilmfolks was correct, I didn’t have enough par on those settings. I pretty much doubled all of those settings to get my 350 halfway through the tank. The fixtures are ~10 inches above the waterline.
Can you post those new setting as a guide. Like you did before, I will like to have that setting.
 

TX_Punisher

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So is it possible to run these without their controller?

And is it just me in the photos your light rack is tilted?
 

TX_Punisher

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@noopsyche

Also, will these ever be Apex compatible? Unless you’re running an enclosed top to hide them all it seems you’d need many of these to cover a large tank. 8 for a 750xxl? 16 for a 8” x 3” x 2”?
 

kdino

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Hey! looking great!! what are you doing with yur old brackets?? looking to get rid of them?
 

MSB123

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@noopsyche

Also, will these ever be Apex compatible? Unless you’re running an enclosed top to hide them all it seems you’d need many of these to cover a large tank. 8 for a 750xxl? 16 for a 8” x 3” x 2”?
Personally, I am running a 180 gallon tank, like the 750xxl, and you could 6. Mabye 10 on an 8x3x2
 
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TheHarold

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So is it possible to run these without their controller?

And is it just me in the photos your light rack is tilted?

Yes and yes. These can run at 0, 25, 50, 75, and 100% without the controller. They remember their last state, so you can turn them on and off on those settings. But you cannot control the spectrum.

Yeah probably tilted lol
 

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