Growing red ogo?

Goonter

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I’m trying to grow red ogo gracilaria as a means of filtration and being able to feed it to my tank herbivores. I have some questions:

-how do I know if it is doing well and healthy? I keep seeing different colors on it and I’m not sure if it’s different stages of growth or death.

-when is it time to harvest it?
Should I be harvesting a branch a week or waiting a doing a big amount at once like people do with chaeto?

thanks!

Pics included of some I fed today and also refugium

8F252F19-835A-4DEF-AC8E-CE8D8F956CF0.jpeg FA180235-5157-4599-A215-C5283D00323E.jpeg 96BB7308-FEC3-487B-86BD-01BC532E4857.jpeg 378C00D9-B32F-4DBA-8BD9-B6A9F47D5FA7.jpeg 2F66A208-9858-42A7-A741-0A42AEBBB926.jpeg
 
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MoshJosh

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In my humble experience, becoming pale then clear is death. . . that said I have seen macros die back when first introduced and then take off later. Also, in my experience, it can be hard to grow decorative algaes with chaeto. At least in the same container my chaeto would thrive and other macros would die. . . I may just be terrible at growing macros though haha
 
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Goonter

Goonter

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In my humble experience, becoming pale then clear is death. . . that said I have seen macros die back when first introduced and then take off later. Also, in my experience, it can be hard to grow decorative algaes with chaeto. At least in the same container my chaeto would thrive and other macros would die. . . I may just be terrible at growing macros though haha
Yeah it’s been interesting.. I got some good growth from getting it initially. The part on the feeding clip were just “free floating” pieces… with some joints being green. I was thinking it may be the lighting because the lower half of the plants seem to still be darkish? Also considering that maybe I should’ve harvested it sooner and there is too much of it for the nutrient content?

I’ve tried to do reading on growing red ogo, but haven’t found a ton of info (especially what healthy vs unhealthy looks like).
 
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If your Red Ogo is Gracilaria Parvispora, then what I say applies, because generic names are very misleading.

In general, red macro reproduction is more complex than the greens & browns.


THE REPRODUCTIVE CYCLE OF MARINE PLANTS
reproduction.bmp
The reproductive cycle of marine algae is complex and varies greatly between red, brown and green algae. All marine macro algae produce what is known as gametes. A gamete is a cell that fuses with another gamete during fertilization (conception) in organisms that reproduce sexually. Gametes can be either male or female and are released by the development of reproductive spores on the plant. These are normally visible as a bump or node on the fronds in some species. They are known as cystocarps when formed on red algae and are very pronounced. The spores are then released and attach to a surface or substrate. Germination of the algae spores depends upon several conditions, such as temperature, but the germination is never delayed as in terrestrial plants when conditions are not favorable for reproduction.
Reproduction helps assure each species' survival in the ocean. Note the absence of any reproductive spores on the damaged frond in this species of Halymenia Floresia (pictured below). Many aquarists mistake this orange coloration often seen on this species for new growth, but it is actually dying tissue. The drying out of cell tissue can induce the algae to produce and release reproductive spores and is used as a means of producing algae seed in the mass culture of commercial seaweeds.
sporulation1.jpg

When marine plants release reproductive spores, or gametes, the result is that the plant dies. This is the cycle that often occurs with species of Caulerpa in the aquarium when conditions are favorable for reproduction. When Caulerpa begin the process, they often turn yellow with little white spots appearing on the fronds or blades. A white milky substance is then released into the aquarium water. This secretion is composed of the gametes and the cell tissue of the algae. Clear tissue in most species is usually not associated with reproduction, but rather a sign of nutrient deficiency.

What causes reproduction in marine algae?
Marine macro algae reproduce when their environment changes, or when their "biological clock" say it's time. Some of the conditions known to induce a sexual event in nature are: spring tides, lunar phases, temperature and photo period. Some species of algae are even known to release pheromones or organic chemicals to attract male gametes. Several species of marine algae however, are not affected by photo period alone and can reproduce in both light or darkness. In the aquarium the conditions are artificially maintained, so care must be taken to limit any sudden change in water quality that can induce a sexual event. Species of Caulerpa are known to not release reproductive spores if kept under constant illumination. While this may be true, its growth is typically stunted and the algae cease from productively removing nutrients as the process of photosynthesis is slowed. This is known as the 24/7 lighting cycle and is typically employed by aquarists culturing Caulerpa in the refugium.
Controlling growth
Germinated gametes or spores attach themselves to a surface such as rocks or substrate and then begin their growth. Most live rock, imported or aquacultured, are covered in both fertile and unfertile algae spores. This is why, after several weeks or months of favorable conditions in the aquarium, up sprouts a new plant, seemingly out of nowhere. It also explains why undesirable algae such as micro algae and invasive turf algae can quickly appear and take over the live rock and eventually an entire system. The proper cycling of live rock is crucial to remove many of the undesirable algae that may reside upon the surface of the rock.
Control of both micro and macro algae growth is usually accomplished by limiting excess nutrients in the aquarium by using the correct spectrum bulbs and maintaining the temperature of a system. The turbidity of the aquarium environment will also affect growth in marine macro algae. Species that grow in protected habitats will not grow at the same rate or share the same characteristics if introduced to strong currents in the aquarium. This is evident with many species of Caulerpa, especially C. Mexicana. It will remain short and compact in strong current, while growing tall and wide in a sheltered environment. Overall however, marine micro and macro algae are very resilient and will adapt to almost any artificial conditions including current, lighting, temp, salinity and ph. Another limiting factor of growth in marine algae in the aquarium is the competition for nutrients and sunlight between species. When conditions are favorable for rapid growth, eventually one species will try to dominate the landscape and "choke out" other species or colonies. This can be avoided by diligently pruning the aquascape so that no colony intrudes or outgrows its biomass or given space.​

RED MACROALGAE (RHODOPHYTA)
redalgae.bmp
The genus Rhodophyta is the largest and most diverse group of tropical and temperate marine algae with more than 2,000 species worldwide. Their dominant pigment is phycoerythrin, which gives off rich shades of red, orange and blue. Red macro algae are some of the most varied and striking of all marine algae and are highly sought after as aquarium specimens. Identification can be difficult in some species, such as Gracilaria, and some have slight variations depending on the location and depth. Although this index is not a complete listing, it represents species that are commonly available or sought after by marine aquarists. As new species become available

Not sure what you are calling Red Ogo but it is NOT Gracilaria Parvispora.

In addition to iridescent orange as the precursor to seaweed going sexual, a difference of light intensity does change displayed colors. When I get Bortacladia from the divers, it is a dark burgundy as it is collected in 30’ to 130‘ of water. In low lighting, it stays dark burgundy, under brighter light it displays fire engine red and under intense light Bortacladia displays yellow orange.
 
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Subsea

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“I’ve tried to do reading on growing red ogo, but haven’t found a ton of info (especially what healthy vs unhealthy looks like).”

Without more details, I will speak in generalities. Your red macro does not look healthy, maybe just shipping stress.

Growth in seaweed is not controlled by the most abundant nutrient but it is limited by the least abundant. What are your major nutrients of N P K and minor nutrients with emphases on iron.
 

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