There used to be a calculator where you could put in the size of the tank you wanted to build, etc. - and it would then tell you the minimum thickness of glass you needed, etc.
Anyone know where that is? Or?
Anyone know where that is? Or?
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Odd . Most that give deflection stats say it shouldn't bow more than 0.5 mm.Aquarium Glass Thickness Calculator
The aquarium glass thickness calculator finds required aquarium thickness, volume, glass surface area, and weight for any given measurements.www.omnicalculator.com
Keep in mind that bowing should be considered. For instance, the above calculator says a 48 x 24 x24 is ok with 1/2" glass. I had a tank that size and thickness and it bowed bad.
I'd ask Custom Aquariums... I just got a rimless 180 gallon 6X2X2, and they used 5/8" glass. It bows maybe 1/8 (3.18) across the front,
With a safety factor of 4.2, the one I shared says 5/8 inch thick glass; the OmniCalculator one says 5/8" sides and 7/8" bottom with a safety factor of 3.8. The customaquariums link doesn't work for me.None of these calculators "seems" to be correct...?
96" L x 30" W x 27" H - and they all say 1/2 inch glass...?
Yea those calculators have been around for ages and nobody I know if has challenged the math.None of these calculators "seems" to be correct...?
96" L x 30" W x 27" H - and they all say 1/2 inch glass...?
Anyways used the above...saltwater is denser (1025 kg/m3) than fresh (1000 kg/m3),
Who would be surprised if the quality of the glass is worse nowadays...raise your hand.The quality of glass also depends on the manufacturer. The tensile strength varies from 19.3 to 28.4 megapascals depending on how the glass was produced. Because of this, a safety factor of 3.8 is used to measure the thickness of the glass.
Sorry about that. I am not sure what happened. I think I fixed it.The customaquariums link doesn't work for me.
Yeah, that link works.
Well don't hold me to this but in general tension strength is stronger than sheer strength.That was really my main concern - the size of the Euro-brace...
3/4" glass all around - and a 3/4" single piece (hole cut out in the middle) 4" perimeter Euro-brace...
It appears that the big tank manufactures (Red Sea, Waterbox) put the Euro-brace inside the tank...
Isn't that a lot of weight for just some silicone to hold...?
Seems like it would be more appropriate to have the Euro-brace on the top and not inside...?
Once the silicone is cured, it will show minimal changes in elasticity with ultimate elongation peaking at 513% and a tensile strength capable of withstanding up to 480 psi.
The seam strength comes from the bond between the glass panels. Not the smear on the inside of the seams...........Structurally the "Euro brace" placed on top is nearly useless except to prevent water splashing out of the tank.
Real Euro brace is placed on the inside of the glass - its that simple.
If you want to use a thinner glass to keep your costs down and still maintain an acceptable safety factor, you can simply design your tank as if it were two tanks by installing a front-to-back brace across the top/center of the tank. This effectively turns a 4-foot long tank into two 2-foot long tanks by supporting the top center of the front and back panes of glass.