for those thinking about fluconazole, dr tims re-fresh and waste away

melonheadorion

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i wanted to put this out there for anyone that has considered any of these products, or had concerns.

for starters, i was battling a hair algae and bryopsis issue that wasnt going away. the hair algae was easy to remove, but bryopsis was getting worse over time.

my phophates were in a good spot at .05 or so, with nitrates being on the higher end of about 20. since the algae was feeding off of it, it would be safe to say that my levels were probably higher than .05 and 20. i read many people using fluconazole with success, and no ill effects, so i gave it a shot. it got rid of the bryopsis easy. hair algae, it changed a little, but it actually seemed to have increased teh growth of it at the end, and seemed to have introduced another type of algae. that was after the 3 week recommendation of the reef flux, and doing a 30% water change.

not saying that it didnt work, because it did work, but didnt work enough for me as it had for others. perhaps i needed to do another dose of fluc. ive read that sometimes it has to be done a second time for a multitude of reasons.

to try to fix what was causing the worsening algae that was coming out after the fluconazole, i tried battling it with bacto balance to bring down my phosphates and nitrates. i didnt want to bottom it out, obviously, so i got it to a .03 phosphate and 15 nitrates, so i was happy with where the two were at, at that point, but i still had an ever increasing issue with whatever algae i had going. it was similar to hair algae, but a little more coarse. taking rock out of the tank, and scrubbing was an option, but that option was short lived because it would just come back stronger. after doing this a couple times, i decided to go with the dr tims route to try to battle whatever is feeding it.

ive had a bottle of dr tims re-fresh and waste away for a while, that i never opened. the directions worried me. most specifcaly, the part where it says it may harm shrimp and inverts. i didnt want to kill anything, so i shelved it. i decided to give it a go because i was getting tired of the algae that was just getting worse.
i followed the directions to a T for both re-fresh and waste away. ive head horror stories of people not following, and they paid dearly for it.

for those that are going to use re-fresh. it did NOT harm any inverts. i did the recommended week of dosing for my tank, and there were no casualties, nor slight signs of anything bad. however, i didnt see much taking place with re-fresh either. it did a little, but not enough where i can say it was working. from what the directions say, my assumption is that it gets rid of mostly film algae type of stuff from rockwork and surfaces. my rocks are still quite green, so i may need to continue doing dosing of the re-fresh? anyhow, what i did notice is that with the dosing of re-fresh, any time i scrubbed away long hair algae (or whatever it was), it wasnt coming back strong like it would have before.
the waste away, because of the really bad stories of this, and people not following instructions, i did exactly as the directions said, and was more cautious. i started with a 1/4 dose, and then increased by another cap 48 hours later, and then another cap 48 hours after that.. i wasnt at a full dose, but it didnt seem that it was doing much, from what i could see. based on the instructions, it says to me, that it is supposed to break down the organics so that it can be skimmed out. my skimmer wasnt "freaking out" as many claimed would happen. i barely got any skimmate to be honest. what i did notice during the time from going from one, to the other was that i noticed that i was starting to get dinos. the treatment somehow seemed to have bottomed out my phosphate to 0. this shouldnt have happened, but somehow it did. so, for the last week, ive had the start to a dino outbreak, but as of yesterday, when i completed the 14 day refresh/waste away cycle, i did my partial water change, and dinos dont seem to be coming back. they are there a slight amount, but not like they were. my phosphate is still undectable with a color chart. i would assume i have some, but i the color chart seems to be 0. through the last week, i kept up with turkey basting the rock, and dosed phosphate in small amounts, so maybe it was all of that, but it seemed to be right after my water change, so i will chalk it up to the water change. i dunno.

another thing to mention during this, about half way through, i noticed my zoas, hammer, and dragon soul torch closed/retracted. after i completed the 15% water change yesterday, they have completely turned around. i think it was even just before the water change that they started coming around, but i dont recall.

the dr tims treatment seems to have done a little, and is keeping the scrubbed areas of the rock from coming back, like it did in force previous. i do give it the benefit of the doubt in which the instructions really dont get you up to a full dose of the waste away, if youre being cautious. myself, i went cautious the whole way. for a full dose of waste away, it would be 10 caps. the first dose was 1.5 caps. the second was 2.5 caps, and the last was 3.5 caps. i decided to follow the instructions and do the water change as recommended. i may follow through and do a second cycle of it, but want to see how things react, seeing as how im trying to eradicate this dino issue first.

my next go 'round, i will definately try to get to a full dose, if i decide to do the whole regimen again, but may just do as weekly doses to see what that does.

in all, im not entirely impressed. it seemed to have done something, but not to the extent that i expected. more specifically for removing surface algae. the "what does it do" examples dont really give a clear picture as to what you can expect. im having to make assumptions, and my assumptions may be wrong. my expectation of the re-fresh was that it would get rid of the nasty green that my rocks have (where there isnt hair algae present), but its had no change to that at all. maybe it just comes down to having to do regular doses of it.

i would love to hear stories and whatnot from others that have used it.

for those that have thought about using either of these, i hope this is useful to help you decide. in no way am i saying that these products dont work. i definately saw changes, but my system didnt get the outcome i hoped for. i almost lean toward an issue with skimming, since i didnt get the skimmate that others raved about, but my skimmer is more than adequate for my system, so im at a loss
 

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i wanted to put this out there for anyone that has considered any of these products, or had concerns.

for starters, i was battling a hair algae and bryopsis issue that wasnt going away. the hair algae was easy to remove, but bryopsis was getting worse over time.

my phophates were in a good spot at .05 or so, with nitrates being on the higher end of about 20. since the algae was feeding off of it, it would be safe to say that my levels were probably higher than .05 and 20. i read many people using fluconazole with success, and no ill effects, so i gave it a shot. it got rid of the bryopsis easy. hair algae, it changed a little, but it actually seemed to have increased teh growth of it at the end, and seemed to have introduced another type of algae. that was after the 3 week recommendation of the reef flux, and doing a 30% water change.

not saying that it didnt work, because it did work, but didnt work enough for me as it had for others. perhaps i needed to do another dose of fluc. ive read that sometimes it has to be done a second time for a multitude of reasons.

to try to fix what was causing the worsening algae that was coming out after the fluconazole, i tried battling it with bacto balance to bring down my phosphates and nitrates. i didnt want to bottom it out, obviously, so i got it to a .03 phosphate and 15 nitrates, so i was happy with where the two were at, at that point, but i still had an ever increasing issue with whatever algae i had going. it was similar to hair algae, but a little more coarse. taking rock out of the tank, and scrubbing was an option, but that option was short lived because it would just come back stronger. after doing this a couple times, i decided to go with the dr tims route to try to battle whatever is feeding it.

ive had a bottle of dr tims re-fresh and waste away for a while, that i never opened. the directions worried me. most specifcaly, the part where it says it may harm shrimp and inverts. i didnt want to kill anything, so i shelved it. i decided to give it a go because i was getting tired of the algae that was just getting worse.
i followed the directions to a T for both re-fresh and waste away. ive head horror stories of people not following, and they paid dearly for it.

for those that are going to use re-fresh. it did NOT harm any inverts. i did the recommended week of dosing for my tank, and there were no casualties, nor slight signs of anything bad. however, i didnt see much taking place with re-fresh either. it did a little, but not enough where i can say it was working. from what the directions say, my assumption is that it gets rid of mostly film algae type of stuff from rockwork and surfaces. my rocks are still quite green, so i may need to continue doing dosing of the re-fresh? anyhow, what i did notice is that with the dosing of re-fresh, any time i scrubbed away long hair algae (or whatever it was), it wasnt coming back strong like it would have before.
the waste away, because of the really bad stories of this, and people not following instructions, i did exactly as the directions said, and was more cautious. i started with a 1/4 dose, and then increased by another cap 48 hours later, and then another cap 48 hours after that.. i wasnt at a full dose, but it didnt seem that it was doing much, from what i could see. based on the instructions, it says to me, that it is supposed to break down the organics so that it can be skimmed out. my skimmer wasnt "freaking out" as many claimed would happen. i barely got any skimmate to be honest. what i did notice during the time from going from one, to the other was that i noticed that i was starting to get dinos. the treatment somehow seemed to have bottomed out my phosphate to 0. this shouldnt have happened, but somehow it did. so, for the last week, ive had the start to a dino outbreak, but as of yesterday, when i completed the 14 day refresh/waste away cycle, i did my partial water change, and dinos dont seem to be coming back. they are there a slight amount, but not like they were. my phosphate is still undectable with a color chart. i would assume i have some, but i the color chart seems to be 0. through the last week, i kept up with turkey basting the rock, and dosed phosphate in small amounts, so maybe it was all of that, but it seemed to be right after my water change, so i will chalk it up to the water change. i dunno.

another thing to mention during this, about half way through, i noticed my zoas, hammer, and dragon soul torch closed/retracted. after i completed the 15% water change yesterday, they have completely turned around. i think it was even just before the water change that they started coming around, but i dont recall.

the dr tims treatment seems to have done a little, and is keeping the scrubbed areas of the rock from coming back, like it did in force previous. i do give it the benefit of the doubt in which the instructions really dont get you up to a full dose of the waste away, if youre being cautious. myself, i went cautious the whole way. for a full dose of waste away, it would be 10 caps. the first dose was 1.5 caps. the second was 2.5 caps, and the last was 3.5 caps. i decided to follow the instructions and do the water change as recommended. i may follow through and do a second cycle of it, but want to see how things react, seeing as how im trying to eradicate this dino issue first.

my next go 'round, i will definately try to get to a full dose, if i decide to do the whole regimen again, but may just do as weekly doses to see what that does.

in all, im not entirely impressed. it seemed to have done something, but not to the extent that i expected. more specifically for removing surface algae. the "what does it do" examples dont really give a clear picture as to what you can expect. im having to make assumptions, and my assumptions may be wrong. my expectation of the re-fresh was that it would get rid of the nasty green that my rocks have (where there isnt hair algae present), but its had no change to that at all. maybe it just comes down to having to do regular doses of it.

i would love to hear stories and whatnot from others that have used it.

for those that have thought about using either of these, i hope this is useful to help you decide. in no way am i saying that these products dont work. i definately saw changes, but my system didnt get the outcome i hoped for. i almost lean toward an issue with skimming, since i didnt get the skimmate that others raved about, but my skimmer is more than adequate for my system, so im at a loss
It seems you are trying to use chemicals to solve an issue that could be resolved with more CUC and nutrient control.

If you have algae, I don't care what your tests say, you have either nitrate or phosphate issues.

Resolve them and the algae will die from lack of nutrients.
 
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OP
melonheadorion

melonheadorion

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It seems you are trying to use chemicals to solve an issue that could be resolved with more CUC and nutrient control.

If you have algae, I don't care what your tests say, you have either nitrate or phosphate issues.

Resolve them and the algae will die from lack of nutrients.
this write up wasnt a request to try to figure out why im having issues. i know issues are caused by nutrients. this was intended to, mostly give those that want to use these options, info that generally concerns them. mostly about the re-fresh. i went with a bacteria route to try to reduce the nutrients that are the source of the cause. if i went chemical, i would have used chemiclean, which i didnt, because i dont want to rely on chemicals to fix something that will come back if the underlying issue isnt fixed.
so, if the issue is nutrients, that means that there is something leaching those nutrients to keep it alive. dr tims waste away, which is not a chemical as advertised, is a bacteria to help remove those organics before they break down to nutrients, and was the reason why i went this route. again, to tackle the underlying issue.

CUC isnt doing muchj in regards to the rock. they all seem to end up on the glass, and arent doing significant amounts to rockwork at all, which is why i rely on scrubbing the rock

fluconazole is as close as i have gotten to "chemical" use, and thats just a anti fungal medication
 

gbroadbridge

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this write up wasnt a request to try to figure out why im having issues. i know issues are caused by nutrients. this was intended to, mostly give those that want to use these options, info that generally concerns them. mostly about the re-fresh. i went with a bacteria route to try to reduce the nutrients that are the source of the cause. if i went chemical, i would have used chemiclean, which i didnt, because i dont want to rely on chemicals to fix something that will come back if the underlying issue isnt fixed.
so, if the issue is nutrients, that means that there is something leaching those nutrients to keep it alive. dr tims waste away, which is not a chemical as advertised, is a bacteria to help remove those organics before they break down to nutrients, and was the reason why i went this route. again, to tackle the underlying issue.

CUC isnt doing muchj in regards to the rock. they all seem to end up on the glass, and arent doing significant amounts to rockwork at all, which is why i rely on scrubbing the rock

fluconazole is as close as i have gotten to "chemical" use, and thats just a anti fungal medication
I understand.

I have used both Dr Tim's Waste Away and Re-Fresh.

I respect Dr Tim, as he is a biologist in good standing.

Having said that I've no success treating algae with his products in newish tanks.

You simply need to understand that new tanks go ugly and that is a part of keeping a reef tank.

It will go away in a few months.

Keep scrubbing with that tooth brush for the next couple of months.
 
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melonheadorion

melonheadorion

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I understand.

I have used both Dr Tim's Waste Away and Re-Fresh.

I respect Dr Tim, as he is a biologist in good standing.

Having said that I've no success treating algae with his products in newish tanks.

You simply need to understand that new tanks go ugly and that is a part of keeping a reef tank.

It will go away in a few months.

Keep scrubbing with that tooth brush for the next couple of months.
the uglies were one thing,, and i understand that. i dont expect to put up a tank and have uglies stay forever. this was beyond the "uglies". at the start, there was hair algae/bryopsis covering at least 50% of the rockwork. a little hair algae, i would accept as the ugly stage, but this was well beyond what should have been there, and isnt as new as one would expect with an ugly stage. its still a new system of course, being under a year old, but it is also not 3 months old. the green film, im not too worried about, but knowing that the hair algae is fueled by organics is what my resolution was intended to go for.
more specifically, before the dr tims treatment, i was elevated to a 25 nitrates. even after a 30% water change, nitrates didnt drop in the slightest. i understand that it wouldnt have halved my nitrate level, but it didnt even touch it. this is ultimately why i went the bacteria route. i wanted to try to get those organics into the water so that they could be skimmed out, instead of just sitting in the tank, leaching into the water.

another thing i do want to mention. although with the phosphates being 0, and having to worry about dinos at any point, the phosphates and nitrates being low right now, have weakened the hair algae (or whatever it is), so its coming apart slowly. enough so that i can turkey baste some of it away.
 

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It seems you are trying to use chemicals to solve an issue that could be resolved with more CUC and nutrient control.

If you have algae, I don't care what your tests say, you have either nitrate or phosphate issues.

Resolve them and the algae will die from lack of nutrients.
Do you, or anyone else, have a compelling example of algae issue I’m a reef tank being resolved successfully due only to nutrient control?
 

gbroadbridge

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Do you, or anyone else, have a compelling example of algae issue I’m a reef tank being resolved successfully due only to nutrient control?
Well it worked for me :)

There can sometimes be a lot of bound phosphate in rock, algae will thrive on that.

To reduce that 'hidden' phosphate needs a lot of GFO, but eventually the algae will get outcompeted.
 

Thales

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Well it worked for me :)

There can sometimes be a lot of bound phosphate in rock, algae will thrive on that.

To reduce that 'hidden' phosphate needs a lot of GFO, but eventually the algae will get outcompeted.
Thanks for replying - just to be clear, you did nothing else to try to day with the algae besides nutrient control? No herbivores, no manual removal, no lighting changes, no bottled magic? Just lowered nutrients? N and P? Do you have numbers and pics of before and after and how long did it take? Thanks!
 

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Thanks for replying - just to be clear, you did nothing else to try to day with the algae besides nutrient control? No herbivores, no manual removal, no lighting changes, no bottled magic? Just lowered nutrients? N and P? Do you have numbers and pics of before and after and how long did it take? Thanks!
I don't believe that is what I said.

My tank (which is a 75 gal display total about 90 gal) has about 50 snails, as well as a scopus tang and a foxface rabbitfish.

They all keep algae down, but in my case the biggest source of gha was bound phosphate in some previously used rock which was by no means live when it was dumped in the tank.

Nutrient control was the overwhelming factor in resolving the algae issue.

This was achieved by the judicious use of MB7 and dosing organic carbon as well as about 2kg of rowaphos over many months.

Unfortunately there are no magic potions to resolve algae issues.
 

Thales

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I don't believe that is what I said.

My tank (which is a 75 gal display total about 90 gal) has about 50 snails, as well as a scopus tang and a foxface rabbitfish.

They all keep algae down, but in my case the biggest source of gha was bound phosphate in some previously used rock which was by no means live when it was dumped in the tank.

Nutrient control was the overwhelming factor in resolving the algae issue.

This was achieved by the judicious use of MB7 and dosing organic carbon as well as about 2kg of rowaphos over many months.

Unfortunately there are no magic potions to resolve algae issues.
Gotcha. Maybe you misunderstood my question, or thought I was asking a different question -

"Do you, or anyone else, have a compelling example of algae issue In a reef tank being resolved successfully due only to nutrient control?"

'Due only nutrient control' is central to what I am asking. You responded "Well it worked for me", so I was following up. Thanks again.
 
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MartinM

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It seems you are trying to use chemicals to solve an issue that could be resolved with more CUC and nutrient control.

If you have algae, I don't care what your tests say, you have either nitrate or phosphate issues.

Resolve them and the algae will die from lack of nutrients.
Well known to be untrue - nothing desirable can outcompete bryopsis, our corals/clams/inverts would starve *well* before bryopsis would. See the 300 page thread on the subject :)
 

gbroadbridge

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Well known to be untrue - nothing desirable can outcompete bryopsis, our corals/clams/inverts would starve *well* before bryopsis would. See the 300 page thread on the subject :)
I was talking about GHA, not bryopsis.

Seems I missed the fact that the OP appears to have both.
Only way I've defeated bryopsis is with Flucanozole.
 

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