Fishless Cycle. What do I do? So confused.

[3000kelvin]

On day 4 of Dr. Tim’s fishless cycle. Added ammonia at 4 drops per gallon minus 20% for substrate/rocks. I’m confused because it looks like my Seachem badge is reading .2ppm for ammonia but my Red Sea kit looks off the charts. My nitrites are also off the charts. I’ve got some nitrates.

Now, Dr Tim says this:
8. High Nitrite – Related to #6. Many times the bacteria can quickly handle the overdosing of ammonia and you will get a zero (0) ammonia reading but the nitrite just gets higher and higher. High nitrite is very common when you rush the process or add too much ammonia too quickly. High nitrite inhibits the bacteria and stalls the cycle. If you have super high nitrite do a 33-50% water change without disturbing the substrate. Do not add chemicals to de-toxify the nitrite,

I didn’t over dose anything, but the results are the results so should I do a water change?? Added photos so you can see my frustration.

 

[Spare time]

I hate how overly complex dr tim makes cycling in the fishless cycling instructions. Just wait till ammonia and nitrite look to be about 0.00, then do a water change and boom you are done. Don't test nitrate until nitrite is gone. Once nitrite is gone and ammonia is at 0.00 or the next closest value, the tank is safe for fish.

 

[3000kelvin]

Took another ammonia reading this morning after I saw the color change on my badge. Looks as if the badge is reading .05 and I’m still not sure what to call the RedSea results. Definitely looks lighter. Assuming I just stay the course right now? Dr Tim’s recipe calls for more ammonia to be added tomorrow.

 

[Spare time]

Something seems off about the red sea color.


Don't add more ammonia. There's literally no need except if you want to slow things down or start with a tank packed full of fish. I think Dr Tim's stated that to just cover all their bases so that people don't do one cycle and then fill the tank to the max with fish

 

[Cell]

I'd trust the ammonia alert badge.

If you can read nitrite, then don't bother testing for nitrate, our hobby test break down nitrate into nitrite so you can't accurately measure it if there is already nitrite present.

Nitrite doesn't hurt anything in our reef tanks. I'm not sure I believe it stalls our cycle either. I would not be concerned by high nitrite.

If you can dose ammonia to around 2ppm and if its gone after 24 hours, you are safe to start stocking slowly. I think Dr. Tim's is a 10 day protocol though.

What kind of rock did you start your tank with? If you enough live rock, you can skip the cycle completely.

 

[Spare time]

I'd trust the ammonia alert badge.

If you can read nitrite, then don't bother testing for nitrate, our hobby test break down nitrate into nitrite so you can't accurately measure it if there is already nitrite present.

Nitrite doesn't hurt anything in our reef tanks. I'm not sure I believe it stalls our cycle either. I would not be concerned by high nitrate.

If you can dose ammonia to around 2ppm and if its gone after 24 hours, you are safe to start stocking slowly. I think Dr. Tim's is a 10 day protocol though.

What kind of rock did you start your tank with? If you enough live rock, you can skip the cycle completely.

I think nitrite has to be extremely high to actually create a real stalled cycled. I'm curious what the value is but it's definitely not something someone would normally encounter unless they just poured an insane amount of ammonium chloride in

 

[3000kelvin]

I'd trust the ammonia alert badge.

If you can read nitrite, then don't bother testing for nitrate, our hobby test break down nitrate into nitrite so you can't accurately measure it if there is already nitrite present.

Nitrite doesn't hurt anything in our reef tanks. I'm not sure I believe it stalls our cycle either. I would not be concerned by high nitrite.

If you can dose ammonia to around 2ppm and if its gone after 24 hours, you are safe to start stocking slowly. I think Dr. Tim's is a 10 day protocol though.

What kind of rock did you start your tank with? If you enough live rock, you can skip the cycle completely.

All of the rock is CaribSea dry rock

 

[zoomonster]

Short answer just dose your bottle starter and forget about it a week or two. You're wasting your time testing before at least a week. You might speed it up a bit with the old dead shrimp method, but I would skip the ammonia. Many test kits are notoriously inaccurate and nitrite and ammonia are just part of starting the cycle. When they are zero then you can think about adding something. I think mine was good to go in about a week using bottle bacteria, recycled live rock, some fresh live rock and a sand bed with live sand mixed in.

 

[3000kelvin]

Ok understood.
Wait for water change then?

 

[zoomonster]

I don't see any need for a water change after it cycles and I never have. I would wait until its tested safe and you have some livestock in there (added slowly) then test. Your tank needs some nitrates which are a result of the cycle and fish/feeding build it up. Same that you need some phosphates which mostly come from feeding or maybe leaching from rock. Excess of either then do a water change.

 

[Cell]

The only reason for a water change after cycling is if nitrates get too high because of excess ammonia dosing.