First RTN / bleaching experience, what should I do?

Tuna Melt

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Hey All, I just got back after a long weekend away and noticed certain corals were bleaching and a few appeared to have RTN. I don’t think this was a result of something that happened this weekend but I think it was the straw that broke the camel's back. This is my first time experiencing something like this, so I’d love to hear others thoughts and experiences.

Here’s the back story. I set up my Redsea Reefer 170 late this February, I always intended to stock it wall to wall to really achieve that bustling reef feel. As a result, I overbuilt my filtration with a Roller Mat, Skimmer and Algae Scrubber all stuffed into a ~34 gallon system. About a month or two ago, the Algae Scrubber got rolling and began quickly depleting the nutrients in the tank. I increased feeding to keep nutrients up but my tank consumes nitrates faster than phosphates (or my food has a higher phosphorous concentration). I have been dosing Nitrates to keep them around ~3, which I’ve largely failed at, they hover around 1 (slowly increasing the dose to get to ~3). My phosphates hover around 0.03-0.08. This whole time my calcium has been falling. I kept increasing the dose on my dosing pump to no effect. An ICP test from 2 weeks ago pegged It at 345. Today I recalibrated the dosing head and realized the line was clogged and has been since I last replaced the calcium bottle a few months ago. You fool!!

7 corals are affected. 3 Leptoseris, 2 Cyphastrea, 1 Stylophora, and 1 tiny little piece of a Tri Color Valida that broke off the main frag and I glued it to a rock (because why not). I think 1 Cyphastrea, the Stylo, and Tri Color have RTN, and I think the rest have bleached or are bleaching. the Stylo and Tri color are in the line of fire from a gyre and the tissue loss is on the exposed side so I have a feeling that is the cause and thus this is not connected to the broader bleaching event. The remaining Leptos and Cyphastrea are all generally in low flow and low (almost indirect) light. Many of these corals were showing growth up until a few weeks ago. My working theory is that low nitrates coupled with low calcium created this issue, the odd thing is my other coral are fine, almost happy. It seems to really only affect Leptos and Cyphastrea. The last thing I’ll mention before getting to the Pics is that I increased my light intensity from 75% to 100% recently but I’ve done it over 46 days via the acclimation mode on my lights and I still don’t think they are in too much light (currently on day 43 of 46 so at ~97%). Most are getting ~70 par at the full 100% and the highest is the Jack-O-Lantern Lepto that gets ~130.

Here are the coral that I think have bleached:
IMG_0610.jpeg IMG_0609.jpeg IMG_0607.jpeg IMG_0617.jpeg


And here are the ones that I think have RTN:
IMG_0611.jpeg IMG_0606.jpeg IMG_0612.jpeg

Here are my ICP results from 5/18. I dose all the deficient trace elements, via the Captivate Aquaculture but clearly not enough.
1693180214639.png


Lastly, here is an FTS, generally things seem happy and healthy, growth has slowed since the great calcium shortage of summer 23’ but alarm bells are not going off left and right.
IMG_0614.jpeg


Thanks a lot for bearing with me through that wordy explanation. As always, I’d love to hear any and all advice!

- TM
 
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InvaderJim

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Honestly my best advice to you would be to take the algae scrubber and filter roller offline for the time being. I couldn't keep SPS alive to save my life when I had a filter roller running. My tank did a complete 180 about a week after taking it out. Dead tissue regrew, pale corals colored back up. Filter rollers work, but usually too well. The algae scrubber putting you in a constant battle with your nutrients isn't helping either.
 
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Tuna Melt

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Honestly my best advice to you would be to take the algae scrubber and filter roller offline for the time being. I couldn't keep SPS alive to save my life when I had a filter roller running. My tank did a complete 180 about a week after taking it out. Dead tissue regrew, pale corals colored back up. Filter rollers work, but usually too well. The algae scrubber putting you in a constant battle with your nutrients isn't helping either.
Thanks for the tip!

So you think it’s an issue of too low nutrients? I guess my one hesitation is that my LPS that purportedly like dirty water are all doing pretty well. Things like Trachy, Blastos, Micromusa Lords, elegance, hammer etc.

Best,
TM
 

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Thanks for the tip!

So you think it’s an issue of too low nutrients? I guess my one hesitation is that my LPS that purportedly like dirty water are all doing pretty well. Things like Trachy, Blastos, Micromusa Lords, elegance, hammer etc.

Best,
TM
I don't know exactly what it was causing mine, it wasn't nutrient related as far as I know but the filter roller was pulling something from the water that the SPS needed to thrive. My corals looked just like yours did. Nitrates of 3 and po4 of 0.03 I would say is basically bare minimum. My phosphate maxed out the hanna checker at one point and the corals didn't skip a beat. Dirty that water up, your corals will appreciate it.
 
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I don't know exactly what it was causing mine, it wasn't nutrient related as far as I know but the filter roller was pulling something from the water that the SPS needed to thrive. My corals looked just like yours did. Nitrates of 3 and po4 of 0.03 I would say is basically bare minimum. My phosphate maxed out the hanna checker at one point and the corals didn't skip a beat. Dirty that water up, your corals will appreciate it.
Thanks Jim. Super interesting, wonder if other folks have similar experiences, I'm going to look into this. I'll let you know what I find.
 
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So I guess one question I have is what to do about the RTN. I think it is spreading to other corals, I've seen a few white tips pop up on my Tri Color that was otherwise growing and my Green Slimer has lost some tissue at its base. I'd love a second opinion on if its actual RTN before I go and frag / dip my SPS. Also I imagine Bayers over Coral RX for the dip?
 

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I always intended to stock it wall to wall to really achieve that bustling reef feel. As a result, I overbuilt my filtration with a Roller Mat, Skimmer and Algae Scrubber all stuffed into a ~34 gallon system.
That unfortunately is not how things work in a reef tank. When you have busting reef the corals are the primarily filter and the rest is supplemental. As suggested I would take some out.
You want coral mass not filtration overload.

Also from ICP your calcium was really low!!! That is odd, how is your Alk?
 

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So I guess one question I have is what to do about the RTN. I think it is spreading to other corals, I've seen a few white tips pop up on my Tri Color that was otherwise growing and my Green Slimer has lost some tissue at its base. I'd love a second opinion on if its actual RTN before I go and frag / dip my SPS. Also I imagine Bayers over Coral RX for the dip?
Not uncommon at all for a new 7 month old tank to be unable to sustain SPS. Your biome just isn't ready for these corals. To much instability behind the scenes. I tried a few tester SPS frags at 10 months and they died over time. After a year my tank went through an evolution phase and became much more stable and predictable. I have since added 38 SPS frags which have all grown into thriving SPS colonies. Your tank needs to mature more and have abundant coralline growing then you know it's time.
 

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Hey All, I just got back after a long weekend away and noticed certain corals were bleaching and a few appeared to have RTN. I don’t think this was a result of something that happened this weekend but I think it was the straw that broke the camel's back. This is my first time experiencing something like this, so I’d love to hear others thoughts and experiences.

Here’s the back story. I set up my Redsea Reefer 170 late this February, I always intended to stock it wall to wall to really achieve that bustling reef feel. As a result, I overbuilt my filtration with a Roller Mat, Skimmer and Algae Scrubber all stuffed into a ~34 gallon system. About a month or two ago, the Algae Scrubber got rolling and began quickly depleting the nutrients in the tank. I increased feeding to keep nutrients up but my tank consumes nitrates faster than phosphates (or my food has a higher phosphorous concentration). I have been dosing Nitrates to keep them around ~3, which I’ve largely failed at, they hover around 1 (slowly increasing the dose to get to ~3). My phosphates hover around 0.03-0.08. This whole time my calcium has been falling. I kept increasing the dose on my dosing pump to no effect. An ICP test from 2 weeks ago pegged It at 345. Today I recalibrated the dosing head and realized the line was clogged and has been since I last replaced the calcium bottle a few months ago. You fool!!

7 corals are affected. 3 Leptoseris, 2 Cyphastrea, 1 Stylophora, and 1 tiny little piece of a Tri Color Valida that broke off the main frag and I glued it to a rock (because why not). I think 1 Cyphastrea, the Stylo, and Tri Color have RTN, and I think the rest have bleached or are bleaching. the Stylo and Tri color are in the line of fire from a gyre and the tissue loss is on the exposed side so I have a feeling that is the cause and thus this is not connected to the broader bleaching event. The remaining Leptos and Cyphastrea are all generally in low flow and low (almost indirect) light. Many of these corals were showing growth up until a few weeks ago. My working theory is that low nitrates coupled with low calcium created this issue, the odd thing is my other coral are fine, almost happy. It seems to really only affect Leptos and Cyphastrea. The last thing I’ll mention before getting to the Pics is that I increased my light intensity from 75% to 100% recently but I’ve done it over 46 days via the acclimation mode on my lights and I still don’t think they are in too much light (currently on day 43 of 46 so at ~97%). Most are getting ~70 par at the full 100% and the highest is the Jack-O-Lantern Lepto that gets ~130.

Here are the coral that I think have bleached:
IMG_0610.jpeg IMG_0609.jpeg IMG_0607.jpeg IMG_0617.jpeg


And here are the ones that I think have RTN:
IMG_0611.jpeg IMG_0606.jpeg IMG_0612.jpeg

Here are my ICP results from 5/18. I dose all the deficient trace elements, via the Captivate Aquaculture but clearly not enough.
1693180214639.png


Lastly, here is an FTS, generally things seem happy and healthy, growth has slowed since the great calcium shortage of summer 23’ but alarm bells are not going off left and right.
IMG_0614.jpeg


Thanks a lot for bearing with me through that wordy explanation. As always, I’d love to hear any and all advice!

- TM
You appear to have low calcium and I would double check alk. High phosphates can be a contributor and well as low salinity. Assure you have adequate water flow to their area which is moderate to medium and also light which is medium and shading (area where light is not reaching the coral is a possibility)
What lights are you using?
 
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Tuna Melt

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Thanks for the responses @Pod_01 @vetteguy53081 @Lavey29.

That unfortunately is not how things work in a reef tank. When you have busting reef the corals are the primarily filter and the rest is supplemental. As suggested I would take some out.
You want coral mass not filtration overload.

Also from ICP your calcium was really low!!! That is odd, how is your Alk?
Alk is fine, consistently around 9... My Calcium is so low because the Calcium dosing tube was clogged for the last 2 months and I foolishly didn't realize, I just kept increasing the dose to no effect and then finally I realized something was off. I unclogged the line and I'm slowly trying to bring it up by ~40-50 points a week till I hit 425-450. I test Alk and phosphates about twice a week.

You appear to have low calcium and I would double check alk. High phosphates can be a contributor and well as low salinity. Assure you have adequate water flow to their area which is moderate to medium and also light which is medium and shading (area where light is not reaching the coral is a possibility)
What lights are you using?
My phosphates hover around 0.03-0.08 depending on the amount of growth in my algae scrubber (i clean it weekly), right before I clean it, phosphates are low, then after I remove a big chunk of turf algae, they creep back up to about .07-.08. My Calcium is so low because the Calcium dosing tube was clogged for the last 2 months and I foolishly didn't realize, I just kept increasing the dose to no effect and then finally I realized something was off!! I unclogged the line and I'm slowly trying to bring it up by ~40-50 points a week till I hit 425-450. My salinity consistently comes back lower on ICP tests than my BRS refractometer shows even after multiple calibrations. Regardless I think its pretty stable.

I'm using RedSea ReefLED 90s, the high center of the tank gets ~300 and where the cyphastrea / leptos are gets about 50-120. I measured with a par meter when I initially set up the tank.
Not uncommon at all for a new 7 month old tank to be unable to sustain SPS. Your biome just isn't ready for these corals. To much instability behind the scenes. I tried a few tester SPS frags at 10 months and they died over time. After a year my tank went through an evolution phase and became much more stable and predictable. I have since added 38 SPS frags which have all grown into thriving SPS colonies. Your tank needs to mature more and have abundant coralline growing then you know it's time.
I initially threw in two monit digis to see if the tank could support SPS, they both showed good growth so I went a bit deeper into SPS world. Looks like I got over my skis, then again, this was before the calcium issue and low Nitrate issue.



@Pod_01 @vetteguy53081 @Lavey29 My top priority is to stabilize calcium and Nitrates, with the dosing pump operational again and my manual dosing of NeoNitro I think I should get that down in a few weeks. My question is, should I do something else for the RTNing coral (i.e. dip and frag em). If you guys think the RTN is because of low Calcium and low Nitrates I wont, but if you think there is there something more sinister at play here like a coral infection/predatory protozoa, I probably will (that's my understanding of the root cause of RTN). I just don't have the experience to make a judgment call like that.
 

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Thanks for the responses @Pod_01 @vetteguy53081 @Lavey29.


Alk is fine, consistently around 9... My Calcium is so low because the Calcium dosing tube was clogged for the last 2 months and I foolishly didn't realize, I just kept increasing the dose to no effect and then finally I realized something was off. I unclogged the line and I'm slowly trying to bring it up by ~40-50 points a week till I hit 425-450. I test Alk and phosphates about twice a week.


My phosphates hover around 0.03-0.08 depending on the amount of growth in my algae scrubber (i clean it weekly), right before I clean it, phosphates are low, then after I remove a big chunk of turf algae, they creep back up to about .07-.08. My Calcium is so low because the Calcium dosing tube was clogged for the last 2 months and I foolishly didn't realize, I just kept increasing the dose to no effect and then finally I realized something was off!! I unclogged the line and I'm slowly trying to bring it up by ~40-50 points a week till I hit 425-450. My salinity consistently comes back lower on ICP tests than my BRS refractometer shows even after multiple calibrations. Regardless I think its pretty stable.

I'm using RedSea ReefLED 90s, the high center of the tank gets ~300 and where the cyphastrea / leptos are gets about 50-120. I measured with a par meter when I initially set up the tank.

I initially threw in two monit digis to see if the tank could support SPS, they both showed good growth so I went a bit deeper into SPS world. Looks like I got over my skis, then again, this was before the calcium issue and low Nitrate issue.



@Pod_01 @vetteguy53081 @Lavey29 My top priority is to stabilize calcium and Nitrates, with the dosing pump operational again and my manual dosing of NeoNitro I think I should get that down in a few weeks. My question is, should I do something else for the RTNing coral (i.e. dip and frag em). If you guys think the RTN is because of low Calcium and low Nitrates I wont, but if you think there is there something more sinister at play here like a coral infection/predatory protozoa, I probably will (that's my understanding of the root cause of RTN). I just don't have the experience to make a judgment call like that.
It's hard to stop RTN. Best to frag off good parts and see if they will survive.
 

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Thanks for the responses @Pod_01 @vetteguy53081 @Lavey29.


Alk is fine, consistently around 9... My Calcium is so low because the Calcium dosing tube was clogged for the last 2 months and I foolishly didn't realize, I just kept increasing the dose to no effect and then finally I realized something was off. I unclogged the line and I'm slowly trying to bring it up by ~40-50 points a week till I hit 425-450. I test Alk and phosphates about twice a week.


My phosphates hover around 0.03-0.08 depending on the amount of growth in my algae scrubber (i clean it weekly), right before I clean it, phosphates are low, then after I remove a big chunk of turf algae, they creep back up to about .07-.08. My Calcium is so low because the Calcium dosing tube was clogged for the last 2 months and I foolishly didn't realize, I just kept increasing the dose to no effect and then finally I realized something was off!! I unclogged the line and I'm slowly trying to bring it up by ~40-50 points a week till I hit 425-450. My salinity consistently comes back lower on ICP tests than my BRS refractometer shows even after multiple calibrations. Regardless I think its pretty stable.

I'm using RedSea ReefLED 90s, the high center of the tank gets ~300 and where the cyphastrea / leptos are gets about 50-120. I measured with a par meter when I initially set up the tank.

I initially threw in two monit digis to see if the tank could support SPS, they both showed good growth so I went a bit deeper into SPS world. Looks like I got over my skis, then again, this was before the calcium issue and low Nitrate issue.



@Pod_01 @vetteguy53081 @Lavey29 My top priority is to stabilize calcium and Nitrates, with the dosing pump operational again and my manual dosing of NeoNitro I think I should get that down in a few weeks. My question is, should I do something else for the RTNing coral (i.e. dip and frag em). If you guys think the RTN is because of low Calcium and low Nitrates I wont, but if you think there is there something more sinister at play here like a coral infection/predatory protozoa, I probably will (that's my understanding of the root cause of RTN). I just don't have the experience to make a judgment call like that.
As far as calcium, you can bump that 50 points a day with no problems.
 

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Thanks for the responses @Pod_01 @vetteguy53081 @Lavey29.


Alk is fine, consistently around 9... My Calcium is so low because the Calcium dosing tube was clogged for the last 2 months and I foolishly didn't realize, I just kept increasing the dose to no effect and then finally I realized something was off. I unclogged the line and I'm slowly trying to bring it up by ~40-50 points a week till I hit 425-450. I test Alk and phosphates about twice a week.


My phosphates hover around 0.03-0.08 depending on the amount of growth in my algae scrubber (i clean it weekly), right before I clean it, phosphates are low, then after I remove a big chunk of turf algae, they creep back up to about .07-.08. My Calcium is so low because the Calcium dosing tube was clogged for the last 2 months and I foolishly didn't realize, I just kept increasing the dose to no effect and then finally I realized something was off!! I unclogged the line and I'm slowly trying to bring it up by ~40-50 points a week till I hit 425-450. My salinity consistently comes back lower on ICP tests than my BRS refractometer shows even after multiple calibrations. Regardless I think its pretty stable.

I'm using RedSea ReefLED 90s, the high center of the tank gets ~300 and where the cyphastrea / leptos are gets about 50-120. I measured with a par meter when I initially set up the tank.

I initially threw in two monit digis to see if the tank could support SPS, they both showed good growth so I went a bit deeper into SPS world. Looks like I got over my skis, then again, this was before the calcium issue and low Nitrate issue.



@Pod_01 @vetteguy53081 @Lavey29 My top priority is to stabilize calcium and Nitrates, with the dosing pump operational again and my manual dosing of NeoNitro I think I should get that down in a few weeks. My question is, should I do something else for the RTNing coral (i.e. dip and frag em). If you guys think the RTN is because of low Calcium and low Nitrates I wont, but if you think there is there something more sinister at play here like a coral infection/predatory protozoa, I probably will (that's my understanding of the root cause of RTN). I just don't have the experience to make a judgment call like that.
Im Not convinced this is RTN. The red sea lights you have dont have a lot of PAR for many and may play a role - you may want to verify PAR again. Phos you've identified and nitrate should be at least 12-15
Other causes are:
- Low dissolved oxygen
- Poor water quality related with phosphate levels which you are working on
- Change in water flow
- recent Addition of sand
- Changes in brand of salt
- Bad test kits giving faulty results
- low Levels of minor elements such as Iodine, Potassium, Strontium
 
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Tuna Melt

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It's hard to stop RTN. Best to frag off good parts and see if they will survive.
Understood, so you are in the RTN Camp? Or just a general statement? These two (Stylophora and a piece of a TriColor that I knocked off and glued to a rock) are directly in the way of a gyre set to 60% random flow mode, which may have blasted the tissue to death (though I thought they could withstand strong random flow)
1693585658543.png
1693585703064.png

As far as calcium, you can bump that 50 points a day with no problems.
10-4 I'll increase my dosage, I don't want to throw the Alk out of balance by pumping up calc too fast though.

Im Not convinced this is RTN. The red sea lights you have dont have a lot of PAR for many and may play a role - you may want to verify PAR again. Phos you've identified and nitrate should be at least 12-15
Other causes are:
- Low dissolved oxygen
- Poor water quality related with phosphate levels which you are working on
- Change in water flow
- recent Addition of sand
- Changes in brand of salt
- Bad test kits giving faulty results
- low Levels of minor elements such as Iodine, Potassium, Strontium
I'll recheck the par levels. The thing is this isn't happening to Acro's, its happening to less light intensive coral so that makes me skeptical if its a lighting issue. With regard to dissolved oxygen, wouldn't that effect the fish first? The water flow comment could definitely explain the Stylo and Tricolor above. But not sure it explains this Cyphastrea which was happy for months with no change in flow:

1693586175887.png


I've been dosing trace elements in accordance with the Captive8 Aquaculture Spreadsheet / Guidance but I've only gotten two ICP tests so its very much a work in progress. No change in salt or sand since setting up the tank. I keep coming back to nitrates, I have been targeting 3-5 but they have hovered in the 1-2 range, you really think they should be as high as 10-15? If so that's a big red flag there.
 

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vetteguy53081

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Understood, so you are in the RTN Camp? Or just a general statement? These two (Stylophora and a piece of a TriColor that I knocked off and glued to a rock) are directly in the way of a gyre set to 60% random flow mode, which may have blasted the tissue to death (though I thought they could withstand strong random flow)
1693585658543.png
1693585703064.png


10-4 I'll increase my dosage, I don't want to throw the Alk out of balance by pumping up calc too fast though.


I'll recheck the par levels. The thing is this isn't happening to Acro's, its happening to less light intensive coral so that makes me skeptical if its a lighting issue. With regard to dissolved oxygen, wouldn't that effect the fish first? The water flow comment could definitely explain the Stylo and Tricolor above. But not sure it explains this Cyphastrea which was happy for months with no change in flow:

1693586175887.png


I've been dosing trace elements in accordance with the Captive8 Aquaculture Spreadsheet / Guidance but I've only gotten two ICP tests so its very much a work in progress. No change in salt or sand since setting up the tank. I keep coming back to nitrates, I have been targeting 3-5 but they have hovered in the 1-2 range, you really think they should be as high as 10-15? If so that's a big red flag there.
They can be as high as 10-15 yes as many run at 20+
I too run a scrubber and strive to maintain my nitrates at even 10 - Used to be 5 as my target. Low nitrate is a red flag as as pointed out, your nutrients are low. Another possibilty that just struck me is Mixed reef. With mixed reefs, both LPS and SPS release toxins and having high grade carbon ( I use ChemiPure blue) helps with toxins IF present.
 
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They can be as high as 10-15 yes as many run at 20+
I too run a scrubber and strive to maintain my nitrates at even 10 - Used to be 5 as my target. Low nitrate is a red flag as as pointed out, your nutrients are low. Another possibilty that just struck me is Mixed reef. With mixed reefs, both LPS and SPS release toxins and having high grade carbon ( I use ChemiPure blue) helps with toxins IF present.
That's a really interesting point, It just struck me that adding a large yellow gorgonian coincided right with when everything really took a turn south. I have some BRS activated carbon in my sump (probs 4 weeks old) I'll swap it out. I'm going to read up on gorgonian releasing toxins
 

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That's a really interesting point, It just struck me that adding a large yellow gorgonian coincided right with when everything really took a turn south. I have some BRS activated carbon in my sump (probs 4 weeks old) I'll swap it out. I'm going to read up on gorgonian releasing toxins
They do shed and release toxins and even sting nearby coral
 

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Understood, so you are in the RTN Camp? Or just a general statement? These two (Stylophora and a piece of a TriColor that I knocked off and glued to a rock) are directly in the way of a gyre set to 60% random flow mode, which may have blasted the tissue to death (though I thought they could withstand strong random flow)
1693585658543.png
1693585703064.png


10-4 I'll increase my dosage, I don't want to throw the Alk out of balance by pumping up calc too fast though.


I'll recheck the par levels. The thing is this isn't happening to Acro's, its happening to less light intensive coral so that makes me skeptical if its a lighting issue. With regard to dissolved oxygen, wouldn't that effect the fish first? The water flow comment could definitely explain the Stylo and Tricolor above. But not sure it explains this Cyphastrea which was happy for months with no change in flow:

1693586175887.png


I've been dosing trace elements in accordance with the Captive8 Aquaculture Spreadsheet / Guidance but I've only gotten two ICP tests so its very much a work in progress. No change in salt or sand since setting up the tank. I keep coming back to nitrates, I have been targeting 3-5 but they have hovered in the 1-2 range, you really think they should be as high as 10-15? If so that's a big red flag there.
RTN typically results in coral death in 24 to 48 hours. Seems like you have more STN going on which can be caused by a variety of factors already mentioned in the thread. I had a couple large colonies start RTN due to bacteria or toxin release. I chopped off the dying bleached parts and was able to save the majority of one affected colony.

I will still say that your parameters are unstable which is normal for a 7 month tank and your biome is not ready to sustain most SPS perhaps some easy ones. The affects you are seeing can take weeks or months to show up visible on the outside but inside the corals have been struggling awhile.
 

Pod_01

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Just a suggestion but with the this Alk:
Alk is fine, consistently around 9.
Your Phosphate level:
My phosphates hover around 0.03-0.08.
Especially the 0.03 is not a good combination. If you want to run with PO4 of 0.03 your Alk should be 6.5-7.5. From my experience Alk over this level with low PO4 leads to STN.
 
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Tuna Melt

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So things continued to deteriorate over the last month, the STN slowly spread to all my SPS coral, even the healthy and fast growing ones (interestingly montis were the last to go). Its important to note that many of the leptoseris and cyphastrea were growing for 3+ months and encrusting on the rock, the Montis were showing progress as well. I got calcium back in line and continued to dose Nitrates to ~5-10PPM. I began to suspect Nitrates were the suspect, the more I dosed the worse it got, there are other instances of reefers suspecting Nitrate dosing causing STN/RTN:
and there is also some vaguely connected scientific rhetoric on it
Despite this, I continued to dose nitrate to try and chase the coveted 5-10PPM. Last week, only my two most robust SPS were left, they were showing a bit of STN but seemed to be holding out. I went to a wedding last weekend and threw an autofeeder on for four days while I was gone. When I got back my phosphates had increased from .08 to .18, I miscalculated the autofeeder dose (or the pellet food has a ridiculously high phosphate content relative to LRS). I increased the photo period on my ATS and now it’s testing at .10. The tank looked okay when I got back last week, though the STN had worsened. Last night I noticed it on my LPS for the first time (although a Micromussa amakusensis bit the dust in the first wave).Its possible it had been going on for weeks and I didn't notice it. The Duncan and Hammer are showing extreme STN on the stem and the elegance coral has partially detached from the skeleton.

I know my chemistry has not been great and I've made rookie mistakes galore, but I really think this is a bacterial infection or something similar. The way it moves to adjacent corals and quickly wipes out corals that have been with me for 6 months now points me in that direction. I am considering some sort of tank treatment to try and save what I have left, I would then plan to rejuvenate the biome with live rubble and live sand after the treatment. I'm considering Witch Hazel, Chemi Clean, and Cipro. I also don't know if I should continue dosing nitrate. What do you guys think. Below is my testing log, and above is an ICP from a month ago, I sent out another ICP on Friday. Any advice is welcome, It would be great to save what's left, pulling these half dead coral out can be pretty dejecting :disappointed-face:.

1696295927462.png



CC5CAFC3-A9D7-42BE-8E9B-D145C6B90FF7.jpeg F6165602-74E1-46D4-823A-65F7D4618AAE.jpeg D2EB5037-B637-4139-97CE-1035FCEC58F2.jpeg
 
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