Finally a Heater that Keeps Temps Stable

[PeterC99]

Last week I installed the new Innovative Marine Helio PTC 400 Watt Aquarium Heater w/ Controller (2 x 200W). Replaced a BRS 300W heater with Inkbird controller which gave me erratic temp ranges.

This heater keeps the temps consistent at 78 degrees and uses significantly less energy. The BRS 300W would used 353 watts (according to my Apex). The Helio has two 200W heating elements, that uses 309 watts when both are on. Also interesting that when the aquarium needs a minor temp increase, only one heating element comes on. Below are the pics from my Apex showing the temp swings before and after Helio install (Jan. 31) and the unit using only one heater to keep the temps stable.

Will update this thread from time to time and let everyone know how the heater performs.

 

[GoReefin]

Oh wow very nice! Mine fluctuates by a couple degrees. I'll look into this one. Thank you for sharing!

 

[driftin]

I've been eying this, and my spidey sense is telling me I'm going to pull the trigger this upcoming summer or fall. Do you have it powered through your Apex as a fail-safe mechanism, or just rely on the Helio controller?

 

[PeterC99]

I do have it powered through the APEX as a fail-safe but this unit lets you set the audible alarm for both high and low temps.

 

[ccurnick]

Last week I installed the new Innovative Marine Helio PTC 400 Watt Aquarium Heater w/ Controller (2 x 200W). Replaced a BRS 300W heater with Inkbird controller which gave me erratic temp ranges.

This heater keeps the heat consistent at 78 degrees and uses significantly less energy. The BRS 300W would used 353 watts (according to my Apex). The Helio has two 200W heating elements, that uses 309 watts when both are on. Also interesting that when the aquarium needs a minor temp increase, only one heating element comes on. Below are the pics from my Apex showing the temp swings before and after Helio install (Jan. 31) and the unit using only one heater to keep the temps stable.

Will update this thread from time to time and let everyone know how the heater performs.

any chance you know how long the cord is from the controller to the heater/probe? Wanting to buy one of these.

 

[Trey]

Thanks for posting. I’m running two BRS heaters on an Inkbird backed up by my apex and the temps fluctuate a bit. I’ll probably look into the IM in the future, when it is time to replace these.

 

[PeterC99]

any chance you know how long the cord is from the controller to the heater/probe? Wanting to buy one of these.

They seem to be 4 feet. Sorry for the imprecise answer but the cords are snaked through my stand and sump so it is difficult to get actual measurement. I also checked the User Manual but couldn’t find those specs.

Wonder if you could get an extension cord for the heating elements if you needed longer cords?

 

[SaltISlife]

You might laugh but my 55w uv sterilizer keeps my 135g consistant at 80-82f lol. I just un plug my heater. The reason for thr fluctuation 2f is due to the tabk being in my bedroom 3rd level so my tenps go up when my lights are on or if ny door is closed.

Then go down at night with the lights off.

 

[piranhaman00]

The Bayite Temp controllers also keep temp within 0.1F for me. Inkbird was about 0.7F.

 

[PeterC99]

You might laugh but my 55w uv sterilizer keeps my 135g consistant at 80-82f lol. I just un plug my heater. The reason for thr fluctuation 2f is due to the tabk being in my bedroom 3rd level so my tenps go up when my lights are on or if ny door is closed.

Then go down at night with the lights off.

What state do you live in? (or country - forgot that R2R is international.)

 

[Flexin]

I was using Colbalt heaters. One is my 32g system and the 300W with two wands in my 90g system (started one year after the 32). Between year 2-3 they each failed and locked on. The replacement on the 32g did it again 2-3 after installed. Prior to this, they did maintain stable temps, so that was great...

I will be interested in long term performance on the IM controller (I will have to look that up). I understanding all heaters fail and the need for redundancy, but I wonder if the increased frequency of in on/off to maintain a stable temp with minor differences just wears them out faster. @Bulk Reef Supply maybe we need an investigates episode

 

[Flexin]

And now that I looked up the price of these heaters, I definitely am curious about how long they last. $200 for a 10-25 gallon system heater (and goes up) seems a bit of a stretch to be honest. The reality also being the ocean is not a steady temp, so struggling to see how this is worth it unless they last for 20 years or more....

 

[Nick Steele]

Is a small temp window that important? My ehime heater on my 20g stays constantly 77.4-78.5 even when it was 40F outside with the sliding glass door wide open not even a foot away from the tank.

 

[Flexin]

The ocean is not a steady temp, so I would say no...

 

[PeterC99]

Is a small temp window that important? My ehime heater on my 20g stays constantly 77.4-78.5 even when it was 40F outside with the sliding glass door wide open not even a foot away from the tank.

It's not only the stable temps but a different design so that the heater is more energy efficient and can't overheat.

 

[zalick]

I'd be a little concerned at the frequent cycling. That constant expanding and contracting increases the wear dramatically. Did you notice issues in your tank with a ~1 degree hysteresis?

 

[PeterC99]

Will see about the cycling. It's a different design that uses a ceramic chip instead of a heating coil.

 

[Hydrored]

Thanks! I just ordered the 700 watt version for my 210, my BRS setup fluctuates all over the place and they are running about 14 months old now.

 

[zalick]

Will see about the cycling. It's a different design that uses a ceramic chip instead of a heating coil.

Very interesting. If this lasts, it's probably a money saver compared With the number of Eheim 300w I've burned through! Currently use finnex titanium. I'll never go back to coils.

I just setup a QT with a cobalt and the stupid thermostat is broken and it stuck on. Thankfully nothing in it. @#$& heaters nuke more tanks.....

 

[DWill]

The Bayite Temp controllers also keep temp within 0.1F for me. Inkbird was about 0.7F.

You beat me to it. I’m not sure how Inkbird became the go to controller. The Bayite is about the same price for the two channel 15A model.

.1° resolution vs 1° On the InkBird and the Bayite is frankly better quality. The only thing that could be better is the temp probe, it’s stainless and will rust/leak after while. That’s easily “fixed” y either covering it in silicone or spending a few dollars to by a better probe.

My experience over the last year has been the Bayite holds calibration better than Inkbird as well. I check the calibration of both my Apex and Bayite once a week using a Hanna temp check. I frequently have to calibrate my Apex but seldom have to calibrate the Bayite, maybe once every six weeks or so I adjust the Bayite.

With the 15A model I run two 100W BRS heaters on the heater channel and two fans on the chiller channel with no problem. I never have the heater and fans fighting one another.

I’ll never own another Inkbird.