Euphyllia nutrient levels. Anyone with real experience?

VintageReefer

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HI713 - phosphate
HI782 - nitrate
HI772 - alkalinity
HI783 - magnesium
HI758 - calcium

I manually enter values in aquarium tracking app and it makes the graphs / charts for me and let’s me enter manual dated notes

App is Called Aquarium Manager
 

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oldbob50

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I don't think that there are ideal phosphate/nitrate values that are universal for every tank. I've had these frogs and hammers for 5.5 years and they have thrived in low nutrient and high nutrient conditions. They are growing like weeds and have been fragged off and thinned many times. (Yesterday I sold $200 worth of the frogs.) My current phosphate runs around 0.4 to 0.6 and my nitrates are undetectable. Notice that does not seem to have a bad effect on any of the corals or nems in the tank. There is no spurious algae issues because of the high phosphate. While I test for the basic parameters to make sure noting is way out, I'm not concerned about the fact that I don't come anywhere close to the ideal phosphate/nitrate ratio. I do dose Kalk with an IV bag daily and lately I have been dosing nitrate just so I can get a reading at all. In my tanks I think that the bio diversity in the tank is far more of a factor than the chemical makeup of the water.
Frogs and hammers.jpg
 

steveschuerger

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Haha, I don’t keep track honestly and just keep an eye on what the corals are seeming to like. Overall seems to be working
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MoshJosh

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My nutrients are usually just above or at 0. . . I keep euphylia alive but they grow slowly in comparison to other corals in my tanks and much slower than "dirtier" tanks I have seen.
 

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Sir, how do you have hammer growing out of a sheet of plexiglass ! I know you have all sorts of secrets to cram all this coral in every single nook and cranny of every single irregular surface

I look at my rock and am like how do I get coral to attach here? Coral epoxy? What if I mount it and then the coral doesn’t like the flow of lighting and then I can’t remove it.
 

steveschuerger

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Sir, how do you have hammer growing out of a sheet of plexiglass ! I know you have all sorts of secrets to cram all this coral in every single nook and cranny of every single irregular surface

I look at my rock and am like how do I get coral to attach here? Coral epoxy? What if I mount it and then the coral doesn’t like the flow of lighting and then I can’t remove it.
It’s on a frag rack that’s drained to look natural so it’s not as noticeable
1711763669975.png
 

X-37B

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I have run all my tanks for the last 7+ years at no3 <5, po4 <.1. It works well for all corals, imo.
Alot of people run much higher but im not an advocate of dirty levels, lol.
Always remember that the numbers you see are what your export system is not removing.
An old 20+ head 4 year old frog spawn that started as 2-3 heads.
This one also has a clown living it.
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manaman

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I love these discussions. People will debate PO4 and NO3 levels without really understanding what is going on. I think people are more inclined to argue about things to be right. The facts are for the most part corals are not interested in inorganic PO4 and NO3. Microbes are though as they use these compounds in cell replication. They are not "nutrients" they do not get metabolized for energy. The majority of people are just p*ssing in the wind if they think these 2 parameters are directly affecting coral, there is a caveat to this and that's rapid swings especially po4 they dont like it, corals do not "absorb" inoganic no3 and po4 like a magic sponge. It's a huge complex subject and there are many forms of nitrogen and prosperous. Ammonium for example, corals and macroalgae prefer NO4 over any other Nitrogen source. This is why you can have people with low "nurient" levels (which are NOT nutrients!) Having success.
 

EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal

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It is pretty common to hear euphyllia likes 'dirtier' water with nitrates at 10-15ppm and phosphate around .05-.1ppm.
Has anyone any real experience with lower vs. higher nutrients, and if so what did you learn in terms of color, growth etc.?
It's more about stability than specific numbers.
 

EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal

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I agree, but besides parameters being stable, I would also add on there are conditions that are directly related to torch health. Lighting and flow are very important
What's your point in replying to my post? The OP isn't asking about lighting or flow...
 

EricR

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...for the most part corals are not interested in inorganic PO4 and NO3...
I believe this is likely accurate, although I probably know less than most on here.
...but these ARE testable indicators that can be used to make some decisions -- noticing changing trends and acting is likely more useful than ignoring (IMO)
 

VintageReefer

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What's your point in replying to my post? The OP isn't asking about lighting or flow...

Well I certainly hope I didn’t offend you! My post is advice related to the OP concern / question of ideal conditions for euphyllia health and color and growth

The conclusion many of us state is high vs low doesn’t matter, and it’s more about stability. And I agreed and added on, lighting and flow are also important.

That’s the point of my post and how it’s relevant to the thread. Guiding op in the right direction for success
 

manaman

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I believe this is likely accurate, although I probably know less than most on here.
...but these ARE testable indicators that can be used to make some decisions -- noticing changing trends and acting is likely more useful than ignoring (IMOIMO
You are 100% correct and you may have less experience but this has nothing to do with understanding basic core concepts. They are indeed "indirect indicators" We can't as hobbyists test for organic N&P (another huge complex system) so use inorganic as a rough guide as to what is going on. It's a lot of best guess situations and deductive reasoning but can easily give a false representation of what is truly happening. Many times reefers are like that chimp launched into space on a rocket. They go along for the ride without a clue what's going on outside line of sight, or they have watched a few videos of other chimps riding rockets. The No3 Po4 argument is a pointless one. Too many complex variables to consider comparing one closed system to another. Each mature system will often require a different level of inorganic compounds to balance the ecosystem.
 

Reefing_addiction

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You are 100% correct and you may have less experience but this has nothing to do with understanding basic core concepts. They are indeed "indirect indicators" We can't as hobbyists test for organic N&P (another huge complex system) so use inorganic as a rough guide as to what is going on. It's a lot of best guess situations and deductive reasoning but can easily give a false representation of what is truly happening. Many times reefers are like that chimp launched into space on a rocket. They go along for the ride without a clue what's going on outside line of sight, or they have watched a few videos of other chimps riding rockets. The No3 Po4 argument is a pointless one. Too many complex variables to consider comparing one closed system to another. Each mature system will often require a different level of inorganic compounds to balance the ecosystem.
What makes your tank happy might kill mine and vice versa!
Our numbers are the same but coral x dies in my tank and thrives in yours

Some people run ULNS on purpose mine is doing it by itself and it’s driving me nuts but the things in my tank are happy (especially those pesky Dino’s!)

Just need to find your happy spot
 

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People say my parmeters will starve corals to death lol
E96173F2-BF10-4FE1-8952-E76C62C9242C.jpeg E083F576-9692-46FA-A310-7EDCE42A4762.jpeg

Everyone thinks they are an expert…..
I’m not…yes I know something’s but it’s relative to me …I share my knowledge but that doesn’t make it gospel.

I really strongly dislike stuck up know-it-alls
 

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