Emergency! New Tank cycle

[neopode]

Hey all!

I'm cycling a new tank.
What I've done so far:
RedSea E170 with sump upgrade (~55gal water volume)
Barebottom Dry rock
Marine pure media in sump
Dosed many nitrifying bacteria throughout (Dr Tims, Mitrobacter 7, Fritz, Algaebarn Nitrocycle, Algae barn PNS)
Top Shelf Aquatic live seeded biomedia in sump
Dosed AF reef mud weekly from the start.
UV sterilizer is off
RedSea Roller mat is on
Lights off
2 clownfish in
fed a lot (oops) 2 times daily for about 7 days [fish pecked at it but did not consume all] been feeding every 3 days very little since, but fish are not eating (probably due to chemistry?)

3 days ago (9 days into cycle) used API test kit and found amonia and nirites to be high. Did a 40% water change (5gal x 4 times) and tested about 3-4 hours after. Now reading off the charts.
2 days ago (10 days into cycle) tested amonia and nirite off the charts. Did a 30% water change (5 gal x 3 times).
1 day ago (11 days into cycle) After 10hours from last water change tested amonia and nirite off the charts. Performed another 30% water change (5gal x3 times). Put aerator in tank
Today tested 10 hours since last water change and Amonia, Nirite, and Nitrate (tested with API and Hana checker) all reading off the chart. Performed 30% water change (5gal x3 times) and poured in another Dr tims one and only.

All water changes were taken from the display and refilled into the display. All water changes were using LFS cleaned ocean water.

Super stressed about my tank. Any help is welcomed.

 

[Lavey29]

What is off the charts? Nitrite is irrelevant. Ammonia and nitrates are what you need to test. If you suspect ammonia levels then add nitrifying bacteria.

Stop all that miscellaneous dosing too until you get accurate current levels.

 

[neopode]

What is off the charts? Nitrite is irrelevant. Ammonia and nitrates are what you need to test. If you suspect ammonia levels then add nitrifying bacteria.

The API test kit Amonia max is 8.0ppm, Nirite max is 5.0ppm, and Nitrate is 160ppm. I'm also using the HR Nitrate Hana checker which maxes out at 75ppm.

 

[Lavey29]

The API test kit Amonia max is 8.0ppm, Nirite max is 5.0ppm, and Nitrate is 160ppm. I'm also using the HR Nitrate Hana checker which maxes out at 75ppm.

Did you use rodi water? I suspect you are running the test incorrectly. What is your current salinity?

 

[sc50964]

Ooh boy then you got to take the fish out and find them another home until you tank is cycled.

 

[Lavey29]

Have your lfs test your water. Take your time. Do another good water change with properly prepared salt water

 

[neopode]

Did you use rodi water? I suspect you are running the test incorrectly. What is your current salinity?

Salinity has been a stable 1.025 and temperature has been a stable 78F

 

[Lavey29]

Ooh boy then you got to take the fish out and find them another home until you tank is cycled.

I think it may be a test error. Those fish would be gasping for air and dying if ammonia was that high.

 

[Lavey29]

Salinity has been a stable 1.025 and temperature has been a stable 78F

Ok that good.

 

[sc50964]

I think it may be a test error. Those fish would be gasping for air and dying if ammonia was that high.

But even if you divide that by half, it’s still deadly. Hope the test was seriously screwed up

 

[Lavey29]

But even if you divide that by half, it’s still deadly. Hope the test was seriously screwed up

Agreed

 

[neopode]

LFS says the test won't be accurate since I recently performed a water change, they suggest waiting at least 24 hours before a water test to confirm water chemistry. I probably should wait but I can't sit still with those readings so high for 24 hours and knee jerked water changed.

Fish are a little lethargic near the bottom of the tank. Opening mouth rapidly.

I do have a 20 gal breeder I could try to clean and switch them to if needed!

 

[cpschult]

LFS says the test won't be accurate since I recently performed a water change, they suggest waiting at least 24 hours before a water test to confirm water chemistry. I probably should wait but I can't sit still with those readings so high for 24 hours and knee jerked water changed.

Fish are a little lethargic near the bottom of the tank. Opening mouth rapidly.

I do have a 20 gal breeder I could try to clean and switch them to if needed!

I’d be testing their water..if needed prime will bind ammonia so it won’t harm the fish

 

[Dan_P]

Hey all!

I'm cycling a new tank.
What I've done so far:
RedSea E170 with sump upgrade (~55gal water volume)
Barebottom Dry rock
Marine pure media in sump
Dosed many nitrifying bacteria throughout (Dr Tims, Mitrobacter 7, Fritz, Algaebarn Nitrocycle, Algae barn PNS)
Top Shelf Aquatic live seeded biomedia in sump
Dosed AF reef mud weekly from the start.
UV sterilizer is off
RedSea Roller mat is on
Lights off
2 clownfish in
fed a lot (oops) 2 times daily for about 7 days [fish pecked at it but did not consume all] been feeding every 3 days very little since, but fish are not eating (probably due to chemistry?)

3 days ago (9 days into cycle) used API test kit and found amonia and nirites to be high. Did a 40% water change (5gal x 4 times) and tested about 3-4 hours after. Now reading off the charts.
2 days ago (10 days into cycle) tested amonia and nirite off the charts. Did a 30% water change (5 gal x 3 times).
1 day ago (11 days into cycle) After 10hours from last water change tested amonia and nirite off the charts. Performed another 30% water change (5gal x3 times). Put aerator in tank
Today tested 10 hours since last water change and Amonia, Nirite, and Nitrate (tested with API and Hana checker) all reading off the chart. Performed 30% water change (5gal x3 times) and poured in another Dr tims one and only.

All water changes were taken from the display and refilled into the display. All water changes were using LFS cleaned ocean water.

Super stressed about my tank. Any help is welcomed.

Take the fish out until you figure out what is going on.

What is the ammonia level of the ocean water used in the water changes?

Forget about testing nitrite and nitrate until you determine whether the ammonia test is correct or not. Have the LFS test your water.

 

[KrisReef]

Put the clownfish in a bucket of clean water and take them back to the store. Leave them there for a couple of weeks and then bring them back.

 

[jabberwock]

I agree with all the advice so far. Also, if you did a 5 gallon water change 3 times, that does not equal a 30% water change. If you remove 15 gallons all at once, and replace 15 gallons all at once, THAT would give you approximately a 30% water change.

When you take out 5 and add 5 three times, the water is mixing and reducing the effectiveness of your water change (if I am understanding this correctly).

 

[neopode]

I agree with all the advice so far. Also, if you did a 5 gallon water change 3 times, that does not equal a 30% water change. If you remove 15 gallons all at once, and replace 15 gallons all at once, THAT would give you approximately a 30% water change.

When you take out 5 and add 5 three times, the water is mixing and reducing the effectiveness of your water change (if I am understanding this correctly).

That's what I suspected which is why I decided to clarify how I performed it!

 

[vetteguy53081]

Hey all!

I'm cycling a new tank.
What I've done so far:
RedSea E170 with sump upgrade (~55gal water volume)
Barebottom Dry rock
Marine pure media in sump
Dosed many nitrifying bacteria throughout (Dr Tims, Mitrobacter 7, Fritz, Algaebarn Nitrocycle, Algae barn PNS)
Top Shelf Aquatic live seeded biomedia in sump
Dosed AF reef mud weekly from the start.
UV sterilizer is off
RedSea Roller mat is on
Lights off
2 clownfish in
fed a lot (oops) 2 times daily for about 7 days [fish pecked at it but did not consume all] been feeding every 3 days very little since, but fish are not eating (probably due to chemistry?)

3 days ago (9 days into cycle) used API test kit and found amonia and nirites to be high. Did a 40% water change (5gal x 4 times) and tested about 3-4 hours after. Now reading off the charts.
2 days ago (10 days into cycle) tested amonia and nirite off the charts. Did a 30% water change (5 gal x 3 times).
1 day ago (11 days into cycle) After 10hours from last water change tested amonia and nirite off the charts. Performed another 30% water change (5gal x3 times). Put aerator in tank
Today tested 10 hours since last water change and Amonia, Nirite, and Nitrate (tested with API and Hana checker) all reading off the chart. Performed 30% water change (5gal x3 times) and poured in another Dr tims one and only.

All water changes were taken from the display and refilled into the display. All water changes were using LFS cleaned ocean water.

Super stressed about my tank. Any help is welcomed.

To begin with cycling, typically you want to add your bacteria and then ammonia chloride. Then you want to monitor ammonia , When your ammonia is steady at zero for 5 days and Nitrate is steady at 20 or below- You are cycled. Ignore nitrIte Unless sky high
The tank will go through two phases in which ammonia will rise then fall and nitrate will rise and fall which is normal. When fish are added, the bacteria population will increase with the new bio load, converting waste to nitrate.
Currently what you are doing is called chasing numbers and will get you off to a very negative start. You are stressing instead of taking time to enjoy your tank and experience.
As mentioned , Api tests will give false readings especially the ammonia levels and I would place my confidence in the Hanna results. If youre nervous about numbers, simply take a water sample to a store that does NOT use Api kits and have them test your ammonia and nitrates and compare readings- then you'll know where your levels truly are at

Reduce these water changes which indicates you are establishing or trying to establish zero numbers which the bacteria and tank needs to do on its own.

 

[LordofCinder]

Honestly you are going too fast. Should not cycle a tank with fish, and not too cool that you only feed them once every 3 days.

Its a heck of a lot of money wasted on water changes too. Usually there is no need to change the water while the tank is cycling.

Buying water from the LFS is always questionable, you don't know the source, the age, how it was kept, if any contaminants in it?

Suggest that you slow down, do more research, buy a rodi unit and proper test kits (not API)

 

[jabberwock]

So, I highly recommend that you rehome the fish until you get your cycle done. Even if they survive it, they will be physically diminished and not live for very long.