Eliminating GHA on sand

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TWYOUNG

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Is there a way to control GHA growth on the sand bed? I'm dosing about 30mls of dibasic sodium phosphate daily to maintain a measurable level, which I'm sure contributes to the problem. I had dinos a few months ago so I can't let my nutrients bottom out. CUC does a decent job on the rock but I have to siphon the algae off the gravel about every two weeks. I filter the water through a 10 micron sock and return it to the display to avoid further lowering nutrients.

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TWYOUNG

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agree, how is the flow in the tank?

I think it needs a lot more attention and effort than just syphoning the algae every 2 weeks, thats a huge accumulation.
What do you suggest? Tank is 9 months old. Not introducing corals until I get algae under control. Todays parameters, alk 9.6, nitrate 2.5, phosphate 0.04, salinity 34.4, AM pH 7.97, ORP 309. I use kalk for alkalinity, all for reef for trace elements. In order to build diversity and prevent a return of dinos I add MB7 and AF Lifesource weekly.
 

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What do you suggest? Tank is 9 months old. Not introducing corals until I get algae under control. Todays parameters, alk 9.6, nitrate 2.5, phosphate 0.04, salinity 34.4, AM pH 7.97, ORP 309. I use kalk for alkalinity, all for reef for trace elements. In order to build diversity and prevent a return of dinos I add MB7 and AF Lifesource weekly.
How stocked with fish and clean up crew are you?
 
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I suggest a pin cushion urchin. Mine puts in serious work. I’ve got zero algae in main tank. Actually have to keep some growing in sump. Manual removal regular wc and urchin is how I finally got over it. It took about a year too. Mine was bad. But now my tank looks amazing
 
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Is there a way to control GHA growth on the sand bed? I'm dosing about 30mls of dibasic sodium phosphate daily to maintain a measurable level, which I'm sure contributes to the problem. I had dinos a few months ago so I can't let my nutrients bottom out. CUC does a decent job on the rock but I have to siphon the algae off the gravel about every two weeks. I filter the water through a 10 micron sock and return it to the display to avoid further lowering nutrients.

View attachment 3056687
this is GHA and cyano bacteria. Filter sock will not be enough with this and reason its multiplying with one ingredient- LIGHT
You will have to treat this like cyano and address the causes before resorting to light adjustment.
Are you using RODI water or tap water from the faucet?
Is this tank at or near a window?
What is your phosphate level and how are you testing?

Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 3-5 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the 5 days, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.
 
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TWYOUNG

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I suggest a pin cushion urchin. Mine puts in serious work. I’ve got zero algae in main tank. Actually have to keep some growing in sump. Manual removal regular wc and urchin is how I finally got over it. It took about a year too. Mine was bad. But now my tank looks amazing
Are urchins going to work on the sand?
 

Double monti 61

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Try adding small substrate stirring invertebrates, some snails,hermit crabs, shrimps,worms and other small creatures.
 

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TWYOUNG

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this is GHA and cyano bacteria. Filter sock will not be enough with this and reason its multiplying with one ingredient- LIGHT
You will have to treat this like cyano and address the causes before resorting to light adjustment.
Are you using RODI water or tap water from the faucet?
Is this tank at or near a window?
What is your phosphate level and how are you testing?

Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 3-5 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the 5 days, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.
7 stage RODI, Hanna phosphate kept above zero with dosing. Same with nitrates. No windows. Reef Octopus skimmer. 10 red and 10 blue leg hermits.
 

vetteguy53081

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7 stage RODI, Hanna phosphate kept above zero with dosing. Same with nitrates. No windows. Reef Octopus skimmer. 10 red and 10 blue leg hermits.
Hmmm- strange but I trust your readings
Follow the cyano regimen I sent- It does work. Light is your enemy
 
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