Dinoflagellates taken over tank

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LeDart

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Help! I went on a family vacation for 10 days, and had a good family friend come over to my house to take care of my tanks, and when I return my RS 200XL is overrun by Ostreopsis Dinoflagellates (I was struggling with them before I went on the vacation, but it had started to recover.) I currently use a 24 watt UV sterilizer, and am doing a 3 day blackout period. When I returned, the tank was in complete disarray. Dinos are on everything, at least three corals dead, all zoas are closed, all hard corals are bleached or bleaching, and rocks are absolutely coated in dinos. I use IO salt, and an RO/DI filter.
 
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Help! I went on a family vacation for 10 days, and had a good family friend come over to my house to take care of my tanks, and when I return my RS 200XL is overrun by Ostreopsis Dinoflagellates (I was struggling with them before I went on the vacation, but it had started to recover.) I currently use a 24 watt UV sterilizer, and am doing a 3 day blackout period. When I returned, the tank was in complete disarray. Dinos are on everything, at least three corals dead, all zoas are closed, all hard corals are bleached or bleaching, and rocks are absolutely coated in dinos. I use IO salt, and an RO/DI filter.
The effect was from low level toxins produced from the dino. I just answered someone 's message and his dino is near gone.
Its biological deficiencies that are causing the dino structure.
No light is first key followed by the addition of bacteria to overcome the bad bacteria allowing them to thrive
Prepare by starting by blowing this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles. Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15% IF you have light dependant corals) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off. During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as micro bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons. Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX
You can feed fish as normal and if doing blackout, ambient light in room will work for them
 
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LeDart

LeDart

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The effect was from low level toxins produced from the dino. I just answered someone 's message and his dino is near gone.
Its biological deficiencies that are causing the dino structure.
No light is first key followed by the addition of bacteria to overcome the bad bacteria allowing them to thrive
Prepare by starting by blowing this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles. Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15% IF you have light dependant corals) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off. During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as micro bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons. Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX
You can feed fish as normal and if doing blackout, ambient light in room will work for them
Okay, thank you so much, I will do this when I get home from work.
 
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Help! I went on a family vacation for 10 days, and had a good family friend come over to my house to take care of my tanks, and when I return my RS 200XL is overrun by Ostreopsis Dinoflagellates (I was struggling with them before I went on the vacation, but it had started to recover.) I currently use a 24 watt UV sterilizer, and am doing a 3 day blackout period. When I returned, the tank was in complete disarray. Dinos are on everything, at least three corals dead, all zoas are closed, all hard corals are bleached or bleaching, and rocks are absolutely coated in dinos. I use IO salt, and an RO/DI filter.
While thinking this over, consider the possibily that the coral were dying already and dinoflagellates are just taking advantage of the excess nutrients
 

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Just went through a horrible Dino infested experience which overtook my tank. Completely covering rocks,sand bed , glass and equipment. I tried everything and I mean everything(UV,temp,silicates, phyto,blackout) Nothing worked and I was ready to throw in the towel.

I caught a thread by Brandon429 which mentioned the rip/clean method and how it’s perfect for smaller tanks and I decided to try it. All I can say is within 24 hours, my tank Is back to normal. No trace of Dino’s , smell is 100% gone and coral are all opening back up.

Look up the thread for those suffering through this infestation, but in short, I completely emptied the tank. I took all frags off rock and put on a frag rack. Ditched the sand temporarily or permanently, not sure yet. Loving the flow with bare bottom.

Took out the rock and sprayed peroxide, let sit for a few minutes. Sprayed empty tank with peroxide and all equipment and rinsed. Put rock back in and did a 100% water change. Once all parameters were in range, put livestock back in.

I wish I took a picture of the waste water in the buckets. It was black and I clean my tank frequently. I put filter socks on and will probably keep them on this time after seeing all the crud the back compartments held.

Dirty tank was main cause of my Dino’s imo…..but this rip/clean method was nothing short of amazing. Thanks to Brandon429 for all his help!

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Polyp polynomial: How many heads do you start with when buying zoas?

  • One head is enough to get started.

    Votes: 27 10.6%
  • 2 to 4 heads.

    Votes: 145 57.1%
  • 5 heads or more.

    Votes: 65 25.6%
  • Full colony.

    Votes: 10 3.9%
  • Other.

    Votes: 7 2.8%
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