Devastated, just how could this have happened?

HAAAAAAAA

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I was at college and I get a message from my mother saying (your two fish are dead)

Just how could've this happened? Just two days ago they seemed fine in the quarantine tank, even today morning the tang was swimming around just fine, the only things i can think about is


I bought the fish the exact time it came in stock at the lfs which could've of added stress

The shipment was delayed by 3 hours

I did a methylene blue dip for 1 hour whilest drip acclimating since methylene blue is known to make ammonia less toxic

can't think of ammonia killing them because I used atleast 4 sponges taken from an established tank to put it in the quarantine tank within a cannister filter
Could any of these would've added the killing blow?!

IMG_20241014_171501.jpg IMG_20241014_171440.jpg
 

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if you can kill a lion fish something definitely major happened …
Still I think that you think it still might of been ammonia and that’s also what I’m still thinking …
Bumping for additional opinion
 
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if you can kill a lion fish something definitely major happened …
Still I think that you think it still might of been ammonia and that’s also what I’m still thinking …
Bumping for additional opinion
The lion when I first got it wasn't moving much nor was it eating in the first day I got it
 
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Good luck figuring this one out, not enough information here without testing the water.
The salinity is the same as the water which was shipped in the bag 1.018
Ph 8.2
Ammonia 0.50 but most likely because the fish were dead in the water for 3 hours prior to me testing
 

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The salinity is the same as the water which was shipped in the bag 1.018
Ph 8.2
Ammonia 0.50 but most likely because the fish were dead in the water for 3 hours prior to me testing
Yep, unfortunately there is no way to know now without sending the fish out for an autopsy. With ammonia that high, that is probably a contributing factor.
 

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There is 0 reason to drip fish if salinity matches/is close. You are just adding stress. Please don't do that next time.

How long ago did you get the fish?
What size QT?
What do you have for flow/surface agitation?
Are they in any medications?
 

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How big was the QT tank and how long was it setup for?

The sponges certainly would help but they would still likely need to settle and will only do so much. Is this established tank also 1.018 or higher like a normal reef aquarium?

My main question is how big the tank is for 2 rather high and large bioload fish.

For the future, I run a QT tank all the time. When there are no fish I just turn the heater off and still add a bit of coral food as a food source for little critters possibly in there. Water change water from the main tank goes into this to keep numbers reasonably close to the main tank.

Sorry for the loss. See if anyone can help you from this point. We have almost all had similar experiences, me included.

- Paul
 
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There is 0 reason to drip fish if salinity matches/is close. You are just adding stress. Please don't do that next time.

How long ago did you get the fish?
What size QT?
What do you have for flow/surface agitation?
Are they in any medications?
The outflow of the cannister filter is pushed towards the surface creating a fountain of surface irritation

I did the drip acclimation incase the ph might've been lower and also considered the change of salt

The the quarantine tank is 10 gallons mostly because the fish were small

The fish have been in the qt for 2 whole days

I dosed praziquantel and metronidazole yesterday and within 24 hours there was no distress, the dose was finely calculated
 
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How big was the QT tank and how long was it setup for?

The sponges certainly would help but they would still likely need to settle and will only do so much. Is this established tank also 1.018 or higher like a normal reef aquarium?

My main question is how big the tank is for 2 rather high and large bioload fish.

For the future, I run a QT tank all the time. When there are no fish I just turn the heater off and still add a bit of coral food as a food source for little critters possibly in there. Water change water from the main tank goes into this to keep numbers reasonably close to the main tank.

Sorry for the loss. See if anyone can help you from this point. We have almost all had similar experiences, me included.

- Paul
Qt was 10 gallons mostly because the fish were small

The tank was set up a day prior to the fish

The salinity of the established tank is higher about 1.021, the established tank has been running for about 2 years

I appreciate the help
 
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My vote is that this was an ammonia issue. The timing is right. The acclimation strategy was wrong.
I really hope that wasn't the issue but if it was, i am greatly disappointed in myself

Thank you for the help provided
 

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Change of salt doesn't matter, pH won't be harmful but staying in the bag can be.

I know Biota and Dr Reef both say DO NOT DRIP and it voids their guarantee. More venders are stating this practice because it leads to more issues than it helps.

The one major benefit of a QT or obs tank is you can match salinity to the bag and plop and drop.
 
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How big was the QT tank and how long was it setup for?

The sponges certainly would help but they would still likely need to settle and will only do so much. Is this established tank also 1.018 or higher like a normal reef aquarium?

My main question is how big the tank is for 2 rather high and large bioload fish.

For the future, I run a QT tank all the time. When there are no fish I just turn the heater off and still add a bit of coral food as a food source for little critters possibly in there. Water change water from the main tank goes into this to keep numbers reasonably close to the main tank.

Sorry for the loss. See if anyone can help you from this point. We have almost all had similar experiences, me included.

- Paul
I Also wanted to add that the fish weren't eating for that 2 days so I do wonder, if it was an ammonia spike, where did it come from?
 

Tamberav

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Was there any fast breathing?

You probably should get an ammonia badge for your QT just because it is $7 and could be helpful. The sponges should have done the job, I do tend to put in a little fritz 9 with the media anyways.
 
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Change of salt doesn't matter, pH won't be harmful but staying in the bag can be.

I know Biota and Dr Reef both say DO NOT DRIP and it voids their guarantee. More venders are stating this practice because it leads to more issues than it helps.
I did not know that, I have followed this principle for the last 2 years and had not seen a fish death like this but nonetheless, I'll stop doing this if it causes the fish more stress than it should, i really appreciate the help and knowledge
 
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Was there any fast breathing?

You probably should get an ammonia badge for your QT just because it is $7 and could be helpful. The sponges should have done the job, I do tend to put in a little fritz 9 with the media anyways.
No, not particularly
 
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Change of salt doesn't matter, pH won't be harmful but staying in the bag can be.

I know Biota and Dr Reef both say DO NOT DRIP and it voids their guarantee. More venders are stating this practice because it leads to more issues than it helps.

The one major benefit of a QT or obs tank is you can match salinity to the bag and plop and drop.
Could you please elaborate the right way to acclimate? I see conflicting answers such as floating and drip acclimating being worked for almost everyone, but I would like to have your take
 

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