Desperate need of help with Diagnosis

[ChanceB2002]

Hello, I have had a Fluval EVO for about three months now, when setting the tank up I used some live rock from petco which unknowingly and sadly had some Ich on it which was introduced to my system. I want fallow for a total of 56 days I kept my Display tanks heat elevated at 82 to 86 degrees for the entirety of the fallow and I replaced my sand bed completely, I also put my fish through Copper and did the Tank transfer method to just be extra per captious. I reintroduced my fish into the display tank an one of my clowns has these white spots on him again it doesn’t look like ich to me only because it doesn’t look like the spots it had before but these are more raised and flaky and you can tell he’s got a lot of extra mucus on him , he is acting normal and eating normal he just looks sick. Any help would be appreciated and thank you in advance

 

[vetteguy53081]

Hello, I have had a Fluval EVO for about three months now, when setting the tank up I used some live rock from petco which unknowingly and sadly had some Ich on it which was introduced to my system. I want fallow for a total of 56 days I kept my Display tanks heat elevated at 82 to 86 degrees for the entirety of the fallow and I replaced my sand bed completely, I also put my fish through Copper and did the Tank transfer method to just be extra per captious. I reintroduced my fish into the display tank an one of my clowns has these white spots on him again it doesn’t look like ich to me only because it doesn’t look like the spots it had before but these are more raised and flaky and you can tell he’s got a lot of extra mucus on him , he is acting normal and eating normal he just looks sick. Any help would be appreciated and thank you in advance

This is likely brooklynella which copper would not have had much effect on. The most significant sign is the slime on its body which is noticeable on the fish. Mucus generally starts at the facial area as well as gills and spreads across the body producing lesions as it progresses often confused with ich and can turn into secondary bacteria. Other symptoms will be lethargic behavior, refusing to eat and heavy breathing from the mucus.
Typical treatment is a formalin solution is mixed with in a separate container with either fresh or saltwater. Start with a prolonged 60 minute bath of ruby rally pro then at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank. The longer the fish are exposed to the treatment, the more effective it will be at eliminating this issue.
Since a formalin solution is often not available for immediate use, temporary relief can be achieved by giving the fish a FW bath or dip in water same temperature as display tank. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, as well as reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems.
Treatment is best done in a QT tank using either quick cure (more effective but now harder to find) or Ruby Rally Pro. Ruby takes a little longer and initial treatment generally takes 2-3 days to really start going to work.
With the advanced stage of this- I recommend immediate quarantine of all inhabitants and leaving display without fish for 4-6 weeks.
A quarantine system if you dont have one can be as easy as a second hand tank from a thrift store or as simple as a starter tank kit from Walmart which has most of the essentials

 

[ChanceB2002]

This is likely brooklynella which copper would not have had much effect on. The most significant sign is the slime on its body which is noticeable on the fish. Mucus generally starts at the facial area as well as gills and spreads across the body producing lesions as it progresses often confused with ich and can turn into secondary bacteria. Other symptoms will be lethargic behavior, refusing to eat and heavy breathing from the mucus.
Typical treatment is a formalin solution is mixed with in a separate container with either fresh or saltwater. Start with a prolonged 60 minute bath of ruby rally pro then at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank. The longer the fish are exposed to the treatment, the more effective it will be at eliminating this issue.
Since a formalin solution is often not available for immediate use, temporary relief can be achieved by giving the fish a FW bath or dip in water same temperature as display tank. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, as well as reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems.
Treatment is best done in a QT tank using either quick cure (more effective but now harder to find) or Ruby Rally Pro. Ruby takes a little longer and initial treatment generally takes 2-3 days to really start going to work.
With the advanced stage of this- I recommend immediate quarantine of all inhabitants and leaving display without fish for 4-6 weeks.
A quarantine system if you dont have one can be as easy as a second hand tank from a thrift store or as simple as a starter tank kit from Walmart which has most of the essentials

I have a couple snails in my display tank will they be fine to stay in the display or do they need to be removed as well? Thank you for your response.