Cyanobacteria tank to tank contamination

russells55

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Hi all

Just wondering what everyone option is on Cyanobacteria and sharing tank water etc.

I have 3 tanks 90gal , 40 gal and 15

there isn’t much but coral and snails normally in my 15 gal.
I have been letting a few live rocks gather algae and isopods in there for a few weeks and then moving them and some water back into the other 2 tanks.
Between the urchin and lawnmower blemmy I feel this is needed otherwise they just eat everything to death.

However I noticed the 15 gal has some red slime going on (likey over feeding the snails and no flow from the rocks blocking stuff)

Is this a bad practice I have going on. Will this bring red Cyano to the other tanks

Fyi all 3 tanks have had it before In the past.
 

Turtle_reef

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Cyanobacteria, often referred to as "blue-green algae," are photosynthetic bacteria that can form blooms in aquariums. Factors contributing to cyanobacteria blooms include
1. Nutrient excess: High levels of nitrates and phosphates can fuel cyanobacteria growth.
2. Poor water quality: High organic loads, low dissolved oxygen, and unstable pH can create favorable conditions for cyanobacteria.
Inadequate flow: Stagnant water can allow cyanobacteria to thrive.
Risks of Sharing Tank Water
3. Cyanobacteria transfer: If the 15-gallon tank is harboring cyanobacteria, sharing its water with the other tanks increases the risk of spreading the problem.
4. Nutrient transfer: Even if the 15-gallon tank doesn't have a visible cyanobacteria bloom, it might contain higher nutrient levels that could contribute to blooms in the other tanks.
5. Pathogen transfer: Sharing water can also spread other harmful organisms, such as parasites or diseases.

Alternative Approaches could look like
Instead of sharing tank water, consider these strategies to maintain healthy, cyanobacteria-free tanks.

Target feeding: Feed your fish and invertebrates in small amounts several times a day to minimize excess nutrients.
Regular water changes: Perform regular water changes to remove accumulated nutrients and waste.
Improve water flow: Ensure adequate water circulation in all tanks to prevent stagnant areas.
Control algae growth: Use algae eaters like urchins and blenny, but monitor their consumption to avoid overgrazing.
Use a protein skimmer: A protein skimmer can help remove organic matter from the water, reducing nutrient levels.
Consider a refugium: A refugium can act as a biological filter, processing nutrients and providing a habitat for beneficial organisms.

What options do you have with your water system having them all connected? Is there ways to separate each system?
 
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russells55

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Maybe some more info.

Over the last 2 years let’s say as i have been setup these tanks , I had some coral and fish come and go they have all been intermixing.

Such as some fish grow to big for the 40 moved to the 90
Some rocks I didn’t like went to the 15 (big werid shape one with lots of holes that is the heart of the isopods colony)
Xenit tree rock that is over grown but I have been using for frags
Sand full of Nassarius snails that is mixed in with all 3 tanks

Anyways jump to now and there all separate tanks. 90 having lots of coral and 40 not so much.

Just wondering of once a tank had cyano does it always have it looking

I know the causes of it just wondering if a rock with a bit of it will start a bloom in another tank

Or if the bloom was going to happen it already would have
 

Turtle_reef

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it's difficult to guarantee that a tank will never experience cyanobacteria, trying those things I mentioned above can reduce the risk of future outbreaks but also that being said if nutrients are kinda the same in one tank say the 15 and you move it to the 90 or 40 forsure you could get another outbreak even if just having a small amount on one rock and moving it to another tank. And making sure you have enough flow on parts of the tank can help prevent it from settling on the rocks or sand bed, even corals.

Hope that helps a bit.
 

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