Cyano & Calcium Carbonate

[Picassoclown]

Hello everyone. Happy new year! I have been battling a cyano outbreak going on for 1 month and it is unrelenting. I posted previously and had all the big names help out and assist and it looks like it's just starting to break up a little bit. TLDR: I got nitrates up to 8 and have been dosing MB7 religiously now for 2 weeks, weekly water changes of 20%, and a new lighting schedule of mostly blues and lower white spectrum. However, I read a very detailed post by @SunnyX extreme-water-clarity-and-cyano-eradication-made-easy.916381 and how he keeps his tanks absolutely spotless using calcium carbonate mixed in with MB7. I want to give this a shot in my 215 gallon system, but I have a few questions:

1) How much do I add if the outbreak is pretty bad like mine is?

2) Will calcium carbonate lower or raise my calcium/alkalinity levels?

3) How often should I be dosing it?

The pictures starting on the left side of the tank are weekly snapshots of the progress of my tank (sorry for the dirty glass, maintenance day )

Thank you in advance for your help

 

[Lavey29]

I use Sunnys mixture once a week on my tank. For 80g system I dose 7.5ml of carbonate mixed with 15 drops of MB7. Really clears up the tank.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Hello everyone. Happy new year! I have been battling a cyano outbreak going on for 1 month and it is unrelenting. I posted previously and had all the big names help out and assist and it looks like it's just starting to break up a little bit. TLDR: I got nitrates up to 8 and have been dosing MB7 religiously now for 2 weeks, weekly water changes of 20%, and a new lighting schedule of mostly blues and lower white spectrum. However, I read a very detailed post by @SunnyX extreme-water-clarity-and-cyano-eradication-made-easy.916381 and how he keeps his tanks absolutely spotless using calcium carbonate mixed in with MB7. I want to give this a shot in my 215 gallon system, but I have a few questions:

1) How much do I add if the outbreak is pretty bad like mine is?

2) Will calcium carbonate lower or raise my calcium/alkalinity levels?

3) How often should I be dosing it?

The pictures starting on the left side of the tank are weekly snapshots of the progress of my tank (sorry for the dirty glass, maintenance day )

Thank you in advance for your help

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As carbonate can have effect on alk, keep it simple with mentioned treatment below and realize what causes cyano and you will get this out of the tank.
Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the week, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

 

[Picassoclown]

As carbonate can have effect on alk, keep it simple with mentioned treatment below and realize what causes cyano and you will get this out of the tank.
Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the week, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

Hi Vette. Thanks for your reply. You have pointed me in the right direction previously with my cyano battle. Currently I have a different light schedule, which you have approved of, I have been dosing nitrates and phosphates to 8ppm and 0.1, respectively.

My protein skimmer is rated 100 gallons over my system, so I know it is not that issue. I also have not been overfeeding or have been adding any livestock.

My water changes are at 20%, but I feel I may increase that to 25-30%.

As far as the lights out period, I have a lot of different corals in there, will they be okay for that long of a period with no light?

 

[Picassoclown]

I use Sunnys mixture once a week on my tank. For 80g system I dose 7.5ml of carbonate mixed with 15 drops of MB7. Really clears up the tank.

Hi Lavey, always good to read your responses. For an issue such as mine, what would your recommended dose be and can you please break down how much of the carbonate you're using to mix with RO/DI water? How much of an affect has it had on your alkalinity and/or calcium levels? How many times would you recommend I dose a week? I have some livestock on it's way with a delivery on Thursday, the week after, and the week after that. I cannot cancel now as these orders were placed 2 months ago prior to this outbreak.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Hi Vette. Thanks for your reply. You have pointed me in the right direction previously with my cyano battle. Currently I have a different light schedule, which you have approved of, I have been dosing nitrates and phosphates to 8ppm and 0.1, respectively.

My protein skimmer is rated 100 gallons over my system, so I know it is not that issue. I also have not been overfeeding or have been adding any livestock.

My water changes are at 20%, but I feel I may increase that to 25-30%.

As far as the lights out period, I have a lot of different corals in there, will they be okay for that long of a period with no light?

For the corals, provide blue as this is a short period focusing on whites. 25% water is fine. Hold off dosing phosphates for now which in essence providing what cyano likes . . . . lights and phosphates.
Rid this cyano and we can revisit light schedule

 

[Picassoclown]

For the corals, provide blue as this is a short period focusing on whites. 25% water is fine. Hold off dosing phosphates for now which in essence providing what cyano likes . . . . lights and phosphates.
Rid this cyano and we can revisit light schedule

Vette, so just keep the blues on for now? Here is my current lighting schedule as per your recommendations. What power levels are you thinking?

 

[Lavey29]

Hi Lavey, always good to read your responses. For an issue such as mine, what would your recommended dose be and can you please break down how much of the carbonate you're using to mix with RO/DI water? How much of an affect has it had on your alkalinity and/or calcium levels? How many times would you recommend I dose a week? I have some livestock on it's way with a delivery on Thursday, the week after, and the week after that. I cannot cancel now as these orders were placed 2 months ago prior to this outbreak.

Thanks, I used Sunnys recommendation and got a 500ml plastic container with RODI and added the carbonate to that per his instructions in his thread. I use 7.5ml weekly for 80g so you can multiply it out for your large system. Will probably be 22ml dose for you and you add MB7 to that for cyano. 10 drops per 5ml of carbonate so you would need like 45 drops of MB7 with your mix. I have seen no affect on my parameters with weekly dose. You don't need to dose more then once a week. Turn pump off for 30 minutes but leave powerheads on. I usually turkey baste my sand just prior to dose. The 500ml container will last you for many months of use. Just shake it up prior to scooping out your dose amount.

 

[Troylee]

As carbonate can have effect on alk, keep it simple with mentioned treatment below and realize what causes cyano and you will get this out of the tank.
Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the week, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

Calcium carbonate will not raise your cal or alk levels.. I used it every day for a week to get my tank under control and no changes in parameters… I was dosing 7ml with 5ml of mb7 daily for a week in a 60 gallon cube..

 

[Picassoclown]

Thanks, I used Sunnys recommendation and got a 500ml plastic container with RODI and added the carbonate to that per his instructions in his thread. I use 7.5ml weekly for 80g so you can multiply it out for your large system. Will probably be 22ml dose for you and you add MB7 to that for cyano. 10 drops per 5ml of carbonate so you would need like 45 drops of MB7 with your mix. I have seen no affect on my parameters with weekly dose. You don't need to dose more then once a week. Turn pump off for 30 minutes but leave powerheads on. I usually turkey baste my sand just prior to dose. The 500ml container will last you for many months of use. Just shake it up prior to scooping out your dose amount.

Did you change your lighting at all when you were using the calcium carbonate? @Troylee as well

 

[Lavey29]

Did you change your lighting at all when you were using the calcium carbonate? @Troylee as well

I dosed at lights out so fish wouldn't freak and get stressed. No light change.

 

[Troylee]

Did you change your lighting at all when you were using the calcium carbonate? @Troylee as well

I did not… I just did it when I got home everyday in the middle of the day… my fish are used to it now haha!

 

[Troylee]

How did this ever play out? It looks more like Dino’s in the first pic and then some cyano.. maybe you got a mix?

 

[Picassoclown]

How did this ever play out? It looks more like Dino’s in the first pic and then some cyano.. maybe you got a mix?

Hey Troy,

I am still battling it. I made a big post recently about my experience with this stuff. I believe I found my issue, I totally forgot to change out my RO/DI resin after 3 months and I think it has been leaching out silicates into my tank fueling the cyano growth. In addition, 3 of my easier to keep corals have been receding like crazy, which might be from the silicates. I am sending out an ICP test tomorrow and I am making new saltwater as we speak with all new RO/DI inserts. I have a very strong feeling it has been my RO/DI resin this entire time. I will keep you posted on what my ICP test says and how everything starts to look after 2 weeks.