Critique My Nano Plan

[jpmazzone]

I am new to the hobby and have spent a great deal of time researching what I want, can afford and method of attack. I've settled on a 20 gallon Waterbox AIO with one AI 16HD LED light. My plan, which I hope will solicit criticism or affirmation, is as follows:

1. Mix 20 gallons saltwater using a 6 Stage Deluxe Plus 75 GPD RO/DI System and hw-Marinemix Professional Salt Mix in a Rubbermaid garbage can with a heater set at 78 degrees and a small cheap powerhead.

2. Purchase approximately 15 lbs of cured live rock from my LFS and live sand and cook it for three months in the 20 gallons of salt water heated to 78 degrees, flow from a cheap powerhead in a small rubber garbage can with the lid over it. Maintain salinity at 1.025 with no water changes.

3. After 12 weeks, test water for ammonia. If no ammonia, move live rock, sand and approximately 10 gallons of water into new Waterbox Cube 20 Nano AIO Aquarium along with 10 gallons of newly mixed salt water. Perform leak check and ensure that return pump and other items are working correctly. Setup Osmolator Nano 3152 Auto Top Off system and install VorTech MP10mQD powerhead.

4. Test water, if no ammonia is detected, add one clownfish (purchased from LFS) and operate with no light over the next four weeks while testing water parameters.

5. After 4 weeks perform 50% water change and install Prime 16 HD LED Reef Light and acclimate to approximately 100 PAR.

6. A week or so after, add three small frags of zoanthids.

I plan to not use a skimmer and run a filtersock, carbon and some bioballs and/or dark live rock rubble.

Long range fish plans include the clownfish, a lawnmower blenny and a peppermint shrimp.
Clean up crew will consist of snails and hermit crabs as algae starts to grow.
Long range coral plan are zoanthids, neon GSP and montipora.

All livestock will be added slowly over a year. I have the patience of a statue.

I'm grateful if any experienced reefers can offer any advice and tell me where I might have a bad plan. I purposely kept this brief in hopes that someone would read it!

Kind regards,
John

 

[BamaCoastPyrat]

I am new to the hobby and have spent a great deal of time researching what I want, can afford and method of attack. I've settled on a 20 gallon Waterbox AIO with one AI 16HD LED light. My plan, which I hope will solicit criticism or affirmation, is as follows:

1. Mix 20 gallons saltwater using a 6 Stage Deluxe Plus 75 GPD RO/DI System and hw-Marinemix Professional Salt Mix in a Rubbermaid garbage can with a heater set at 78 degrees and a small cheap powerhead.

2. Purchase approximately 15 lbs of cured live rock from my LFS and live sand and cook it for three months in the 20 gallons of salt water heated to 78 degrees, flow from a cheap powerhead in a small rubber garbage can with the lid over it. Maintain salinity at 1.025 with no water changes.

3. After 12 weeks, test water for ammonia. If no ammonia, move live rock, sand and approximately 10 gallons of water into new Waterbox Cube 20 Nano AIO Aquarium along with 10 gallons of newly mixed salt water. Perform leak check and ensure that return pump and other items are working correctly. Setup Osmolator Nano 3152 Auto Top Off system and install VorTech MP10mQD powerhead.

4. Test water, if no ammonia is detected, add one clownfish (purchased from LFS) and operate with no light over the next four weeks while testing water parameters.

5. After 4 weeks perform 50% water change and install Prime 16 HD LED Reef Light and acclimate to approximately 100 PAR.

6. A week or so after, add three small frags of zoanthids.

I plan to not use a skimmer and run a filtersock, carbon and some bioballs and/or dark live rock rubble.

Long range fish plans include the clownfish, a lawnmower blenny and a peppermint shrimp.
Clean up crew will consist of snails and hermit crabs as algae starts to grow.
Long range coral plan are zoanthids, neon GSP and montipora.

All livestock will be added slowly over a year. I have the patience of a statue.

I'm grateful if any experienced reefers can offer any advice and tell me where I might have a bad plan. I purposely kept this brief in hopes that someone would read it!

Kind regards,
John

I am not experienced enough to offer much in advice here. But for a 20 gallon system, I would buy the water from my local fish store (LFS) rather than getting an RODI unit. I can buy RODI water for about 65 cents a gallon from local stores and I believe they sell premixed saltwater at about $1.50/gallon. With a 20 gallon initial fill and 25% weekly water changes, you are looking at 280 gallons for the first year. Do the math and weigh the convenience of having it in your house verse driving to get it and see if it makes sense in your situation to spend the money for an RODI unit in another section of your build.

 

[tinyfellows]

How come you plan on not using carbon?

 

[bushdoc]

I applaud you for :

• planning
• going slow
• using live rock

Instant reef tank is becoming sort of a norm and you are a welcome exception.
Running skimer on 20 gal is difficult nevertheless as there are very few good options.
I would not recommend to keep Lawnmower blenny in 20 gal tank.
Good luck with your plan!

 

[GatorGreg]

If you're buying cured LIVE rock from your lfs. Then why are you curing or "cooking" again? Just asking. If you buy actual LIVE rock from your fish store that was submerged in saltwater. You transported it wet to your home. It's still live rock man......set your tank up. If it was truly LIVE rock you may only see a very slight ammonia spike for a couple days maybe. Seems like you're going through a bunch of unesscary steps here. Of course this is only if you're truly buying live rock.

I think some new people jumble up the terms "live rock", "cured rock" and "dry rock". They seem pretty self explanatory but you'd be surprised how many people don't understand the difference.

 

[Sidsreef]

I am new to the hobby and have spent a great deal of time researching what I want, can afford and method of attack. I've settled on a 20 gallon Waterbox AIO with one AI 16HD LED light. My plan, which I hope will solicit criticism or affirmation, is as follows:

1. Mix 20 gallons saltwater using a 6 Stage Deluxe Plus 75 GPD RO/DI System and hw-Marinemix Professional Salt Mix in a Rubbermaid garbage can with a heater set at 78 degrees and a small cheap powerhead.

2. Purchase approximately 15 lbs of cured live rock from my LFS and live sand and cook it for three months in the 20 gallons of salt water heated to 78 degrees, flow from a cheap powerhead in a small rubber garbage can with the lid over it. Maintain salinity at 1.025 with no water changes.

3. After 12 weeks, test water for ammonia. If no ammonia, move live rock, sand and approximately 10 gallons of water into new Waterbox Cube 20 Nano AIO Aquarium along with 10 gallons of newly mixed salt water. Perform leak check and ensure that return pump and other items are working correctly. Setup Osmolator Nano 3152 Auto Top Off system and install VorTech MP10mQD powerhead.

4. Test water, if no ammonia is detected, add one clownfish (purchased from LFS) and operate with no light over the next four weeks while testing water parameters.

5. After 4 weeks perform 50% water change and install Prime 16 HD LED Reef Light and acclimate to approximately 100 PAR.

6. A week or so after, add three small frags of zoanthids.

I plan to not use a skimmer and run a filtersock, carbon and some bioballs and/or dark live rock rubble.

Long range fish plans include the clownfish, a lawnmower blenny and a peppermint shrimp.
Clean up crew will consist of snails and hermit crabs as algae starts to grow.
Long range coral plan are zoanthids, neon GSP and montipora.

All livestock will be added slowly over a year. I have the patience of a statue.

I'm grateful if any experienced reefers can offer any advice and tell me where I might have a bad plan. I purposely kept this brief in hopes that someone would read it!

Kind regards,
John

Sounds good. got a plan. if i were to do it id probably just fill the tank and not soak the rock...id put your rock in then your sand then water and cycle it that way. filtration in the tank might benefit from the cycle instead of pre cycling it even tho the bacteria is in the rock there will be some sort of bacteria shift for a week or two.

I am not experienced enough to offer much in advice here. But for a 20 gallon system, I would buy the water from my local fish store (LFS) rather than getting an RODI unit. I can buy RODI water for about 65 cents a gallon from local stores and I believe they sell premixed saltwater at about $1.50/gallon. With a 20 gallon initial fill and 25% weekly water changes, you are looking at 280 gallons for the first year. Do the math and weigh the convenience of having it in your house verse driving to get it and see if it makes sense in your situation to spend the money for an RODI unit in another section of your build.

I've had a nano tank and I always need to do a weekly water change. i was on well water but I didn't pay a dime for water. i still think making your own water is the safest cause you at least know what's in your water and what's being filtered out. i have seen so many people have issues with something in the water from LFS. now that's not to say I don't it either I find myself guilty but usually when I need to do an emergency water change or if I don't have time ill just buy the amount I need and it makes quick work instead of waiting for water being made.

 

[GatorGreg]

I applaud you for :

• planning
• going slow
• using live rock

Instant reef tank is becoming sort of a norm and you are a welcome exception.
Running skimer on 20 gal is difficult nevertheless as there are very few good options.
I would not recommend to keep Lawnmower blenny in 20 gal tank.
Good luck with your plan!

It sounds like he's buying live sand and rock. That live sand and rock already is live my man. It's ready to be brought home and the tank started aka INSTAREEF He's about to pay anywhere from 10 to 20 bucks a pound for some live rock that has life and probably coraline on it and shove it in a trash can of saltwater for 3 months with no light......for what? It seems counter intuitive. He's taking live rock and doing to it what someone would do with dry Marco rock and a fish less cycle. If he's buying live rock........it's already cycled.

 

[Runnin'Reefer]

I am new to the hobby and have spent a great deal of time researching what I want, can afford and method of attack. I've settled on a 20 gallon Waterbox AIO with one AI 16HD LED light. My plan, which I hope will solicit criticism or affirmation, is as follows:

1. Mix 20 gallons saltwater using a 6 Stage Deluxe Plus 75 GPD RO/DI System and hw-Marinemix Professional Salt Mix in a Rubbermaid garbage can with a heater set at 78 degrees and a small cheap powerhead.

2. Purchase approximately 15 lbs of cured live rock from my LFS and live sand and cook it for three months in the 20 gallons of salt water heated to 78 degrees, flow from a cheap powerhead in a small rubber garbage can with the lid over it. Maintain salinity at 1.025 with no water changes.

3. After 12 weeks, test water for ammonia. If no ammonia, move live rock, sand and approximately 10 gallons of water into new Waterbox Cube 20 Nano AIO Aquarium along with 10 gallons of newly mixed salt water. Perform leak check and ensure that return pump and other items are working correctly. Setup Osmolator Nano 3152 Auto Top Off system and install VorTech MP10mQD powerhead.

4. Test water, if no ammonia is detected, add one clownfish (purchased from LFS) and operate with no light over the next four weeks while testing water parameters.

5. After 4 weeks perform 50% water change and install Prime 16 HD LED Reef Light and acclimate to approximately 100 PAR.

6. A week or so after, add three small frags of zoanthids.

I plan to not use a skimmer and run a filtersock, carbon and some bioballs and/or dark live rock rubble.

Long range fish plans include the clownfish, a lawnmower blenny and a peppermint shrimp.
Clean up crew will consist of snails and hermit crabs as algae starts to grow.
Long range coral plan are zoanthids, neon GSP and montipora.

All livestock will be added slowly over a year. I have the patience of a statue.

I'm grateful if any experienced reefers can offer any advice and tell me where I might have a bad plan. I purposely kept this brief in hopes that someone would read it!

Kind regards,
John

Like a lot of people have said already, way to plan my man. If you fail to plan you plan to fail, and you have not failed to plan in the slightest. Some people have already mentioned it, but you probably don't need to do your 12 week cook period. If you purchase live sand and live rock from you LFS, then the rock and sand should be ready to go to stock your tank. I would personally give about a 3 week period to throw some ammonia in (drops or use fish food) to build up a little nitrates and to make sure the live rock and sand is filtering. As soon as your tank can filter 2 ppm of ammonia in 24 hours you're good to go. Then you could give it another 2 weeks to do your water change and get your lights going and add the zoas

 

[Sidsreef]

It sounds like he's buying live sand and rock. That live sand and rock already is live my man. It's ready to be brought home and the tank started aka INSTAREEF He's about to pay anywhere from 10 to 20 bucks a pound for some live rock that has life and probably coraline on it and shove it in a trash can of saltwater for 3 months with no light......for what? It seems counter intuitive. He's taking live rock and doing to it what someone would do with dry Marco rock and a fish less cycle. If he's buying live rock........it's already cycled.

so if you put live rock that's pre cycled in the tank that's new it still needs time because there will be a bacteria shift. the internal surface area of the tank accounts for allot bacterial stability. granit most of your bacteria will maintain on rock and sand but new tanks with live rock still need some cycle time. now you can add a fish immediately cause there's enough stability for numbers.

 

[GatorGreg]

That internal surface area of that tank is nothing compared to the pourousness of that rock and all the bacteria in those pores You're not changing my mind. He may see a very little ammonia spike I give you that. But 3 months in a trash can? Completely unnecessary. If the rock he's buying is truly live rock his tank will be able to take a clown and some zoas within a week or 2. Stocking slow is still smart I agree with you.

 

[Sidsreef]

That internal surface area of that tank is nothing compared to the pourousness of that rock and all the bacteria in those pores You're not changing my mind. He may see a very little ammonia spike I give you that. But 3 months in a trash can? Completely unnecessary. If the rock he's buying is truly live rock his tank will be able to take a clown and some zoas within a week or 2. Stocking slow is still smart I agree with you.

im the one that said he didnt need to do the 3 months in the trash can .... i also did say that rock hold most of your bacteria earlier in my post

 

[DanyL]

I agree with others here, no need to cure the rocks if they are already alive.

I never went through a cycle myself, it's been 15 years since I started and to this day, 2 tank transfers (34g>132g>206g) and a lot more additional live rock later and I still maintain that very same "cycle" I began with.

Only thing you might experience is what I call a mini cycle, where for a period of 2 weeks or so algae will start growing in a good pace, however once it stabilizes and grazed by your CUC (which you'll need to introduce fairly quickly) it'll go away.

I would put 1 fish and some simple coral like zoas or shrooms on day one if I were you, and it's not necessarily rushing things either, you need to maintain your already cycled system with some bio load.

 

[GatorGreg]

I agree with others here, no need to cure the rocks if they are already alive.

I never went through a cycle myself, it's been 15 years since I started and to this day, 2 tank transfers (34g>132g>206g) and a lot more additional live rock later and I still maintain that very same "cycle" I began with.

Only thing you might experience is what I call a mini cycle, where for a period of 2 weeks or so algae will start growing in a good pace, however once it stabilizes and grazed by your CUC (which you'll need to introduce fairly quickly) it'll go away.

I would put 1 fish and some simple coral like zoas or shrooms on day one if I were you, and it's not necessarily rushing things either, you need to maintain your already cycled system with some bio load.

Bingo. The rest of his steps are golden. The first couple steps aren't necessary. People, mostly new reefers make such high drama out of the nitrogen cycle it baffles me. It's just not necessary. The fad of dry rock and fish less cycle has confused alot of people I think. I'm almost certain alot of them are just confusing the terminology and getting all mixed up.

 

[jpmazzone]

Thank you everyone for your replies. This is very helpful.

I spoke to my LFS about the live rock he sells. The live rock did not originate in the ocean rather, he cultivated it himself. The rock looks nice and clean. The reason why I was going to cook it was to kill any photosynthetic organisms to avoid an ugly tank period but, for the reasons you all stated above it seems like that does not get me any advantage. I also learned from the comments that you have to maintain the bio load, which makes sense. I am still going to go very slow as to increase the bio load ever so slightly.

So I will go with the live rock, live sand and one clownfish straight away. After two weeks, check for ammonia and if all is well, I will add some very small zoa frags and take it slow.

Thanks again for taking the time to offer your advice. I really appreciate it!

 

[jpmazzone]

I am not experienced enough to offer much in advice here. But for a 20 gallon system, I would buy the water from my local fish store (LFS) rather than getting an RODI unit. I can buy RODI water for about 65 cents a gallon from local stores and I believe they sell premixed saltwater at about $1.50/gallon. With a 20 gallon initial fill and 25% weekly water changes, you are looking at 280 gallons for the first year. Do the math and weigh the convenience of having it in your house verse driving to get it and see if it makes sense in your situation to spend the money for an RODI unit in another section of your build.

That is a really good point!

 

[jpmazzone]

How come you plan on not using carbon?

Sorry, I do plan to use carbon. I've read that it is a good idea when you have zoas in the tank.

 

[jpmazzone]

Bingo. The rest of his steps are golden. The first couple steps aren't necessary. People, mostly new reefers make such high drama out of the nitrogen cycle it baffles me. It's just not necessary. The fad of dry rock and fish less cycle has confused alot of people I think. I'm almost certain alot of them are just confusing the terminology and getting all mixed up.

Gator, you are absolutely correct. There is no shortage of information overload out there. I really enjoy the BRS videos but, they have this multi-part series on cycling a tank using multiple variables (i.e., live rock-dry sand, dry rock-live sand, etc.). After a while, I was completely lost/overwhelmed so I just settled on my plan above. Now that you've all sorted me out on the rock, I think I am just going to go very slow and maintain good housekeeping in the tank.

 

[tinyfellows]

Sorry, I do plan to use carbon. I've read that it is a good idea when you have zoas in the tank.

Oh I read that wrong I was going to recommend it but you are on it

 

[GatorGreg]

Gator, you are absolutely correct. There is no shortage of information overload out there. I really enjoy the BRS videos but, they have this multi-part series on cycling a tank using multiple variables (i.e., live rock-dry sand, dry rock-live sand, etc.). After a while, I was completely lost/overwhelmed so I just settled on my plan above. Now that you've all sorted me out on the rock, I think I am just going to go very slow and maintain good housekeeping in the tank.

You have a well thought out plan. It's going to go great. Just make sure the live rock you're referring to. Is actually live rock and not just some rock that's been wet a week at your LFS. It should have lots of different hues and possibly some coraline on it. It SHOULD NOT be white.

You're doing fine. I am just pointing out some things to save you some money and keep you from wasting it.


Have your water change equipment ready for when you bring your rock home (buckets, pumps, heaters, salt and water.) Monitor it and change a little water out daily. You should only have to do it for a few days. Be completely prepared for when you bring that rock home. Have a refractometer. Don't even waste your money on a hydrometer. I threw mine away.

 

[GatorGreg]

Also. Make sure you're using your RODI unit correctly. You'd be surprised how easy it is to use it incorrectly. Keep that media clean too.