Clownfish With Eggs

[Nikon_Guy]

I'm not sure if the board likes postings of pictures that aren't zoa's or if you guys will get bored with my pictures, but I thought these were pretty interesting for those that have never had clowns lay.

If you wan't me to stop posting non zoa pictures let me know.

 

[czieler]

Great pictures!

 

[divecj5]

Yes, please stop with the AMAZING pictures. Just kidding. Those are some incredible captures and the detail is stunning. I'm sure you've posted this before, but what macro lens are you using?

Thanks for the great pictures and I'm sure no one will be bored with those

 

[JGoslee]

Awesome pics! What camera and lens? Also what settings did you use?
We love pics here so post away!

 

[revhtree]

Seriously Nikon Guy when I see that you have started a new thread I get all excited! No kidding, your pics are amazing and we welcome with open arms art like yours.

These pictures are incredible. Makes me want to be a better photgrapher.

 

[revhtree]

NG can you list your equipment, how you set these shots up and what you do for post processing?

 

[czieler]

Yeah....I'd love to know all that too...

I thought my new camera would be great for shots... dunno if its the camera..or the new tank...but I can barely ever get decent shots w/ it.

 

[msman825]

great shots man

 

[Nikon_Guy]

Thanks so much everyone.

Here is a brief explination on how these shots were obtained:

Well, as you most likely can guess, I use Nikon products. These photographs were taken with an old D-100 with a 105mm lens. Camera settings were ISO 200, f11 to provide adequate depth of field, and a shutter speed of 125 to freeze movement. As a strobe flash was used, the white balance was set to flash –3 due to the presence of atinic lighting.

The key to getting these particular shots was an additional light source above available tank lighting. The available light would not of allowed the above camera settings so the shots would of either suffered in clarity or lack of depth of field.

A mono light with a soft box attachment was placed above and to the right of the subjects with the eggs in the shot being the primary focus of the light metering to ensure they didn't get washed. Being as water will diffuse light to a degree the lights were metered to be 2 stops higher than f11 out of the water to provide correct exposure after it (the light) had passed through the water.

Really, the key to good/great photography is lighting the subjects correctly. It doesn’t matter how good the camera or technology is, it can only capture what it sees.

 

[revhtree]

So let me see if I got this.

You used a strobe as well as a mono light source?

Was the strobe camera mounted?

What watt lighting above the tank?

The reason I ask is that I purchased a continious light kit from amovia. (sp?)

I am also getting a flash unit, the 430ex speedlight.

I use Canon.

 

[divecj5]

Thanks for the explanation NG. I'm assuming that this strobe was off camera as you say it was a monolight. What type of monolight do you use and how are you firing the flash? Also, what size and type of softbox are you using?

I'm just curious since I'm pretty serious about digital photography (sort of a side business here and there) and I am looking to get into a single studio flash setup.

 

[da6d2003]

W O W!!! I agree with Rev!

 

[Nikon_Guy]

So let me see if I got this.

You used a strobe as well as a mono light source?

Was the strobe camera mounted?

What watt lighting above the tank?

The reason I ask is that I purchased a continious light kit from amovia. (sp?)

I am also getting a flash unit, the 430ex speedlight.

I use Canon.

Except for the PC tank lights the only light source used was a Novatron M-500 variable strobe mono light. When wanting to create a natural look I found it is best to only use one light source. This replicates what is available in nature (the sun) under normal circumstances.

Because the larger the light source is and the closer you can get it to the subject, the more natural and pleasing light will be, using a soft box creates a wider area of light and also allows you to place it closer to the subject being photographed as it diffuses the light prior to it reaching the subject area.

Although I use a camera mounted flash for taking quick shots of new pieces for my records or just to detail a problem or get a quick identity of something, I don’t like using them for shots that I want to look great. The reasoning is that in nature intense light seldom comes from the side. (there are exceptions) The sun provides light at various angles depending on the time of day but it is almost always overhead. Using a remote light positioned above the tank gives me the natural look that I like and unlike the sun, I don’t have to wait until it gets to the right spot for the lighting to be perfect.

For those of you that don’t have a remote light source, experiment with bouncing your camera mounted flash of a bounce board (can use a piece of white foam board) placed above the tank.

 

[revhtree]

Awesome stuff! So I could use one of my continuous light's with soft box and position it over the tank to get the desired lighting I need?

Do you shoot RAW and what post processing do you do?

Thanks bro!

 

[Nikon_Guy]

Thanks for the explanation NG. I'm assuming that this strobe was off camera as you say it was a monolight. What type of monolight do you use and how are you firing the flash? Also, what size and type of softbox are you using?

I'm just curious since I'm pretty serious about digital photography (sort of a side business here and there) and I am looking to get into a single studio flash setup.

The soft-box is one that I used to use for a “Rembrandt†look for portraiture. (Main light behind and to the right of the subject) It measures one foot by three foot, which makes it quite convenient for using above a tank.

I use radio controllers to fire the flash, but sync cords or even a slave would get the job done.

To do really good studio portraiture I really feel you need at least three lights. Can get by with two if you use well-positioned reflectors for low key or use the two to do high key shots. With one light it will be tough to do high key full figure shots but can do low key full figure with the use of reflectors.


This is just my opinion, others may disagree.

 

[JGoslee]

For those of you that don’t have a remote light source, experiment with bouncing your camera mounted flash of a bounce board (can use a piece of white foam board) placed above the tank.

How do you bounce the flash?Could you explain more in detail how to do this?

 

[Nikon_Guy]

Awesome stuff! So I could use one of my continuous light's with soft box and position it over the tank to get the desired lighting I need?

Do you shoot RAW and what post processing do you do?

Thanks bro!

For stuff that is not going to be enlarged above 11 x 14 or things that will be primarily posted on the web, I think it is more hassle than it is worth to shoot RAW. Besides people sometimes get really offended when I shoot in the RAW!

The only drawback to using a continuous light source is the high amount of heat created and the fact that most lights of that type that I’ve used give off a yellow/golden hue. Nice for shooting women as it gives them a tan but not so nice for vivid colors. This can be corrected somewhat by using a blue filter.

For post processing I use Photoshop 7. Used mainly for cropping and sizing and sometimes for a bit of color correction.

 

[Nikon_Guy]

How do you bounce the flash?Could you explain more in detail how to do this?

Need to know if you are using a seperate flash mount with a swivel head or one built into the camera.

 

[JGoslee]

I'm using the flash thats built into the camera.

 

[Nikon_Guy]

I'm using the flash thats built into the camera.

That makes it a bit tricky, but still can be done.

Fashion a piece of aluminum foil (shiny side up) just below the camera flash and shape it into a funnel of sorts so it forces the light upwards at an angle. (use scotch tape if you have to to fasten it to the camera) Position a piece of white foam board or you can cover a piece of cardboard with aluminum foil (this light won’t look quite as natural but will get the job done) so the light will bounce down into the area you want lit.

Mind you, this most likely wont provide enough light to do a full tank shot, but I bet you will be surprised with how good shots of individual pieces will look.

You may have to play with the camera settings a bit to get the shots just right, but hey, that’s half the fun.