Closed Loop for Carpet Nem tank?

GlassMunky

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So Im thinking about setting up a closed loop on a 75G RR tank. We just upgraded our main tank to a 210G and moved everything from our old 75G holding tank up into the new tank a month ago, and in doing so, have decided to keep our nems out of the new tank and give them a nem specific tank that doesn't have powerheads for them to wander into. Currently we only have 10 Maxi Mini carpets in a 32G Biocube, but have really wanted a true carpet with some skunks hosting it for a long time. our LFS has a beautiful Blue Haddoni (I think?, it doesn't have verrucae on the foot) which has kind of pushed me into this idea of getting a bigger tank for them. I love the fact they are in an AIO so they can walk around freely without us worrying about ending up in a pump, but the 32G Biocube we have is way too small for a true carpet, and money is kind of tight.

I was was considering using the old 75G RR tank we already have (since we already have all the lights and filters), and using that but adding in a closed loop system for the main flow of the tank rather than using powerheads (We used to run MP40s when it was a reef). Ive never run a closed loop so doesn't really have any experience there, so was hoping for some advice on where the best place for the holes for intake and outtake should be located on the back wall. Was thinking of having like 2-3 outputs and 1-2 intakes? was thinking of having the outputs just be plumbed to be loc-line in the tank so that i could direct the flow some if needed, but really am kind of clueless here. is that a good plan?

Would still keep the RR aspect of the tank and use the sump purly for filtration (skimmer, heater, carbon, ATO) but that sump return would also be flow in the tank. I was also thinking of having the closed loop pump sit inside the sump to help with heat and noise. would that be an issue?

When it comes to maintenance, how do you clean the closed loop pump without the whole tank draining? just have ball valves that can be closed on either side of the pump?

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
 

mfinn

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If you are planning a closed loop, remember there will be a suction bulkhead. You need to plan for that. My closed loop on my 240, I just tee'd off the bulkhead and ran 2 short sections of pipe on each side with a bunch of holes, and a strainer on the ends.
That was a mistake. Sucked up 2 fish and an anemone.
While trying to free the anemone I accidently knocked over 4 gen 3 XR30 Radions into the water.
So plan the strainer carefully, Use a secondary strainer ( box with lots of holes. maybe?)
I have 4 return bulkheads with loc-line y's that provide flow in 8 different directions.
In almost 11 years, I've never cleaned anything but the pump.
 

OrionN

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Close loops do not negated the need for a large area for the pump to suck water in. Close loops is worst then PH in tank because you have to defuse the intake. More water, larger area of defusing so huge contraptions in the tank.
You cannot have intake inside the overflow box because of air bubble.

My advise is to forget it. Just use propeller type PH. There was a time before propeller type PH was invented, close loops make sense but not today. I have beef reefing for a long time. :) :)
 

DanyL

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You cannot have intake inside the overflow box because of air bubble
Why is that?

I had the Red Sea Max S-500 which had a double wall with overflow, and 3 (or 4?) Sicce pumps that provided a fairly good flow across the tank. And in addition to the return line it was well enough to be able to grow out everything from LPS to SPS with no additional flow needed, even when everything was pretty crammed up.

Now days, in my current tank I also have a double wall, but instead of power heads I have my return line split into 4 nozzles across the length of the tank, it contributes to the overall flow of the tank but obviously is not comparable and only comes as a small addition to the 5 wave makers that create the majority of the flow in my tank.
 

Hot2na

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Forget closed loop ..I have a 75 gal tank =I use 2 maxi jet 1200 ( no propeller BS ) on a "pulse" timer (jbj) I think ? 6" sponges on PH strainer intakes... Plenty of flow .place in opposite rear corners of tank facing 45 deg towards front corners .. also have 2 300 gph power filters (penn plax cascade 300 )with sponge on the intake to move more water around and trap dirt .. in that tank have several gigs , 1 large mage ..all are happy -flow wise.
 

Solo McReefer

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1 large mage
priestofdiscontent_A_large_mage_Inside_a_marine_aquarium_34e4363e-084f-4e8e-87db-86bc4806964c-1.png
 

OrionN

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Why is that?

I had the Red Sea Max S-500 which had a double wall with overflow, and 3 (or 4?) Sicce pumps that provided a fairly good flow across the tank. And in addition to the return line it was well enough to be able to grow out everything from LPS to SPS with no additional flow needed, even when everything was pretty crammed up.

Now days, in my current tank I also have a double wall, but instead of power heads I have my return line split into 4 nozzles across the length of the tank, it contributes to the overall flow of the tank but obviously is not comparable and only comes as a small addition to the 5 wave makers that create the majority of the flow in my tank.
I guess if you have double wall and can keep the close loop from sucking up air bubbles then you can put the intake there. There will be a lot of water flow the overflow.
The water flow to the sump then the water for the close loop. Does the overflow design to adequately handle the flow?
 

OrionN

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Never even attempted. Wasn’t worth the trouble and extra space.

Been focusing entirely on the 220 mixed reef
I used large dolphin pumps for my close loops that pump, and heat a lot of water. My intake defuser were screen tubes (2h) next to both side of the overflow box the entire height of the tank,2 inches diameter I also have 2 three ways automatic valves to redirect the flow. The plumping were extensive. The 2 inches valves were expensive 450.00 each in 2000 money.
It works very well and my tank thrives. But a lot of hear. Each of the dolphin pumps draw over 1 amp of electricity. All of that turn into heat.
I have dedicated chiller to keep my tank cool. It cost a lot of electricity. I much prefer MP 60. I have 4 MP 60 on my 320 gal now and I like the flow a lot better. And no heat problem.
 

DanyL

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I guess if you have double wall and can keep the close loop from sucking up air bubbles then you can put the intake there. There will be a lot of water flow the overflow.
The water flow to the sump then the water for the close loop. Does the overflow design to adequately handle the flow?
The overflow was across the length of the tank, so it was adequate enough to compensate.

It also had a partial wall separating the drain pipes from the closed loop, but in such a way that it would overflow from the closed loop section into the drain section.

It was a really well designed system, kind of a shame that Red Sea scratched that whole line.
 

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