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could be ditoms from silicate in the "real reef rock" if it want cured, also could be a cyano from the No pox. No pox is a bacteria food.(carbon dosing)
either way, just ugly phase stuff, it'l pass...
Check your water source.
+1. I wouldn't go chasing anything to fix it. It will resolve on its own.could be ditoms from silicate in the "real reef rock" if it want cured, also could be a cyano from the No pox. No pox is a bacteria food.(carbon dosing)
either way, just ugly phase stuff, it'l pass...
nope.So you don't think that it will harm any livestock.
nope, unless it persists. then you need to find a source. You could try a bag of gfo over the return pump. itll pull the silicate out.Or that I need to worry about any actual treatment.
One other user here with same scenario,Always get 0 Tds
nope.
nope, unless it persists. then you need to find a source. You could try a bag of gfo over the return pump. itll pull the silicate out.
Assuming its dinos. Hard to tell from pics but it does look like it,
One other user here with same scenario,
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/why-is-my-sand-still-brown.287970/page-3
nope.
nope, unless it persists. then you need to find a source. You could try a bag of gfo over the return pump. itll pull the silicate out.
Assuming its dinos. Hard to tell from pics but it does look like it,
One other user here with same scenario,
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/why-is-my-sand-still-brown.287970/page-3
Not surprising. But Id still stay natural at this point and wait. this works for all of them.His looks very dusty, typical of diatoms. Mine seems thicker and more silky.
Not sure why you wold be using it then honestly. coral does need detectable amounts. and if its stripping the wc hard the Po4 reading is inaccurate(as its being stripped from the water column being tested).Always get a reading of 0 phosphate and 0 nitrate
Not surprising. But Id still stay natural at this point and wait. this works for all of them.
Stop carbon dosing. Double check feeding amount. Use good bacteria supplement. Check that the Ph is is and stays above 8(don't use a buffer use air or kalk to boost)
Not sure why you wold be using it then honestly. coral does need detectable amounts. and if its stripping the wc hard the Po4 reading is inaccurate(as its being stripped from the water column being tested).
But on the upside its probably not a silicate problem, unless its in the added water. see the posted link, he was on rodi 0 tds as well..
keep in mind absolute 0 is not a good thing. and depending on accuracy of your test it can vary. corals need varying amounts of nutrints. No nutrints means no food. ULNS Ultra Low Nutrient Systems. can be tricky and IMO best left to an experienced reefer, or even then one with specific livestock needs.Sorry 0 phosphate and less than 1 ppm of nitrate. Just was using it to make sure it didn't rise really.
keep in mind absolute 0 is not a good thing. and depending on accuracy of your test it can vary. corals need varying amounts of nutrints. No nutrints means no food. ULNS Ultra Low Nutrient Systems. can be tricky and IMO best left to an experienced reefer, or even then one with specific livestock needs.
I would avoid that, esp in a new tank.I'm feeding heavy
not necessarily. It can actually feed directly from the dissolved(rotting) solids in the tank.(thus the my feeding stance)stuff is growing so must be nutrients
I would avoid that, esp in a new tank.
not necessarily. It can actually feed directly from the dissolved(rotting) solids in the tank.(thus the my feeding stance)
Also before there were a lot of organic nutrients on the planet cyanobacterias developed a strategy of feeding of of co2 alone by photosynthesis and giving off O2. So if the Ph is low you have a lot of C02 in the system.
Organics rotting in the sand as well as the nitrifying bacterias and aragonite in the sand is also giving off Co2 as well. (thus check Ph)
yes you are also carbon dosing. So in a way its actually working pretty well.Surely if I was feeding too much I would get nitrate ? Ph is 8.1