Bulkhead leak - Need a fix!

[enlighten]

Let the larger bulkhead dry and re tightened but it comes loose quite easily when the pipe moves. Should I attempt to seal it from the bottom with aquarium sealant? Should I replace the bulkhead completely with a schedule 80? If I go the latter route, would it be worth to remove the ball valves completely? Tank is empty, so this is my chance to do plumbing right from how the previous person set it up. Any ideas welcome!

Drain pipe is 1.5" so i assume this is a 2" bulkhead. can someone confirm? return is 3/4"

 

[KStatefan]

If the pipe going into it is 1.5" then it is a 1.5" bulkhead. They are sized by the pipe they use.

I also would not consider this an "Emergency"

 

[blecki]

If the bulkhead 'comes loose' from shaking the pipe then it's not tight to start with.

On the other hand I never understood why people put ball valves on their plumbing. First they suck. If you really want a valve spend a little more and do a gate valve. But, under what circumstances would I ever want to restrict the flow of my drain? Sounds like a recipe for a flood.

 

[Animal20]

Enlighten, I agree with what blecki said about your bulkhead, if you can shake it loose it isn't tight enough. Generally you want it hand tight plus maybe a quarter turn more. BRS sells a 3D printed tool (https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/bulkhead-nut-tool-barr-aquatic-systems.html) you can use to help you grip the bulkhead if getting a good grip on it is the issue. You want to be careful using regular tools as they can allow you to overtighten to the point that you crack the bulkhead. While we're discussing bulkheads also make sure that the rubber flange is on the water side of the bulkhead if you haven't already.
Regarding valves, enlighten also brings up a good point that the ball valve you have has a bad habit of getting stuck over time in whatever position you last had it in. Also, based on the pictures it looks like you have a single drain in each corner of the tank and I agree this may not be the best application for a valve. Typically when there are valves installed on the drains it's part of either herbie overflow which has a primary drain line and an emergency drain or a bean animal drain which has a main drain line, backup drain line and emergency drain line. In both cases the valve is used to adjust water height in the drain and ensure a quiet drain but there are other routes for water to escape if something goes wrong. From what I can tell in your application if one of your drains clogs then the other one becomes the only drain and that can be a significant problem. If I've misinterpreted anything please let me know and I hope this has helped.

 

[rhitee93]

Yeah, I think you should remove all that and start over while you have a chance.

On the subject of valves: Those white box store valves simply don't work as intended. They are almost impossible to open/close when they are new, and just get worse over time. I think it is worth $20/valve to get good ones.

I have a gate valve on my drain line for adjusting the flow, but I put ball valves on the emergency overflow and return lines so I could shut them off if I ever need to isolate the tank completely from the sump.

 

[Subsea]

For reliability, leave valves off drain lines. Even $200 valves will introduce a failure point.

As a senior subsea engineer in deep water drilling on underwater blowout preventer control systems, I mentored corporate design engineers to use the
“kiss“ principle: Keep It Simple, Stupid.

 

[Subsea]

If the bulkhead 'comes loose' from shaking the pipe then it's not tight to start with.

On the other hand I never understood why people put ball valves on their plumbing. First they suck. If you really want a valve spend a little more and do a gate valve. But, under what circumstances would I ever want to restrict the flow of my drain? Sounds like a recipe for a flood.

SOUNDS LIKE A RECIPE FOR A FLOOD

kudos to above post

 

[enlighten]

I read on a few other threads people use a light silicone application to help the seal. Is that something I should consider?

 

[TheSheff]

I read on a few other threads people use a light silicone application to help the seal. Is that something I should consider?

I would likely try getting a new bulkhead and checking to make sure the seal is on the right side before that

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

also make sure that the rubber flange is on the water side of the bulkhead if you haven't already.

This is incorrect!!! The rubber GASKET goes on the FLANGE side of the bulkhead (not the nut side) REGARDLESS of which side gets wet.

I read on a few other threads people use a light silicone application to help the seal. Is that something I should consider?

No.

 

[dadnjesse]

I read on a few other threads people use a light silicone application to help the seal. Is that something I should consider?

They may be talking about silicone grease instead of silicone sealant but I would not use either. Schedule 80 Bulkheads require a larger hole so they most likely would not work. There is a size chart on the Bulkreef site.

How To Select and Properly Install Aquarium Bulkheads

Bulkheads allow you to transfer water from one side of an aquarium to the other and allow for traditional PVC plumbing to be connected. In most aquariums, bulkheads are used for drain and return pipes on your display tank but can be used for many other things too. Some tanks come pre-drilled for...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

 

[Animal20]

This is incorrect!!! The rubber GASKET goes on the FLANGE side of the bulkhead (not the nut side) REGARDLESS of which side gets wet.




No.

Thank you for catching that. I'm not sure what I was thinking when I typed that this morning and I apologize for spreading bad info.

 

[blecki]

I read on a few other threads people use a light silicone application to help the seal. Is that something I should consider?

Don't resort to silicon unless you're dealing with something like a chipped hole preventing a seal. Yes it will seal it up good but the nut still has to be tight or the motion will just pop the silicon off, and you will curse yourself if you ever have to break it down and change the bulkhead.

 

[SpursFan]

Bulkheads are cheap and reuse is questionable without a new gasket. Simply replace and if you need a valve on drain (for siphon drain) it always needs to be a gate valve(spears).

 

[enlighten]

Don't resort to silicon unless you're dealing with something like a chipped hole preventing a seal. Yes it will seal it up good but the nut still has to be tight or the motion will just pop the silicon off, and you will curse yourself if you ever have to break it down and change the bulkhead.

Thats good advice, i got the silicone but it might just be worth replacing the bulkhead instead.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

Thats good advice, i got the silicone but it might just be worth replacing the bulkhead instead.

Silicone on a bulkhead is never a good idea.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Let the larger bulkhead dry and re tightened but it comes loose quite easily when the pipe moves. Should I attempt to seal it from the bottom with aquarium sealant? Should I replace the bulkhead completely with a schedule 80? If I go the latter route, would it be worth to remove the ball valves completely? Tank is empty, so this is my chance to do plumbing right from how the previous person set it up. Any ideas welcome!

Drain pipe is 1.5" so i assume this is a 2" bulkhead. can someone confirm? return is 3/4"

Bulkhead gasket not properly seated. You should be able to remove and salvage water below the overflow line and siphon out overflow chamber and properly tighten By hand or snug with a wrench no more than a 1/4 turn as you dont want to pinch the gasket

 

[enlighten]

Bringing this back! Everything was good and cycling but today we put the canopy on the tank and increased the flow on the return and boom, starting getting leaks at my unions, one of the bulkheads, and various other areas. What did I do wrong? What can I do to improve my plumbing techniques? Tank is filled, running a Reefwave 45 to keep the flow, sump has a wave maker and pump cycling the water. Emptied the chambers for the return flow and disconnected all the plumbing to let it dry before reattaching. Saw some salt creep on top of my unions. Thinking it was coming from the threads that connect the bulkhead to the drain and return.

Please send help, thank you!

 

[enlighten]

I am sure this is wrong, but the left side union touches the wood to the point where it is coming off from tightening. I think loosening it actually make the bulkhead leak here as it a really tight fit. Not sure what other options I have, was thinking something like this but I am sure it is not reef safe.

 

[Bruttall]

If your glued pvc unions are leaking 2 things come to mind, first Primer both sides and use the glue liberally on both pieces to be joined, second twist the pieces as you assemble them.
I feel like some folks skimp on the glue, because it is messy and doesn't lend itself to "pretty" installations, I am function over form myself and the glue is cheap. I run a double 1.5inch drain on my 300g. I put a Spears Gate Valve on the main drain to keep the water level high in the stand pipe to reduce noise, no restriction on the emergency overflow.

As for silicone in a bulkhead, it is suggest not to use this method, silicone does not stick to plastic/pvc. It has a very weak bond easily broken. In a dire emergency (tank full leak type) it is possible to loosen the nut and fill with silicone and get lucky, but I'd only do this as a quick fix until I could tear it down and repair or replace the leaky bulkhead.