I have the new 32 bio cube led. My water is perfect I had it tested. My corals are doing amazing, my fish are happy and my rose bubble tip looks awful. He keeps moving around and only opens part way. I have a pair of Oryx percula but they don't seem interested in it. I added the nem a few weeks ago and he just won't settle. The store told me to add more lights so I got a blue led light bar and a white one. Didn't help. I don't want to lose him HELP!
deedubz
nuttier than a squirrel turd
I learned the hard way how difficult an anemone can be for a new reefer, with a young tank, and low output lighting. It was the perfect storm for that poor bta. I really wanted to try again but I made myself wait a few months to. I bought an mh/t5 fixture, I upgrade the 4 cheap powerheads I had to 2 maxspec gyres, and I made sure all my levels were as close to 0 as possible. I now have 3 btas and an lta that are thriving. Anemones really do need good light, flow, and water quality. That said, you have one in your care so let's try to help you save it.
Do you remember which brand/model led strips?
The fact that is taking food is a good sign though. What are you feeding it and how often? I feed mine a piece of salad shrimp every 2-4 days. They also catch pieces of frozen that I feed the fish.
What kind of powerheads are you using? They like medium-high flow, but love intermittent.
How are you testing your water? Do you have a kit or is your lfs checking for you?
What kind of filtration do you have on your tank?
Do you remember which brand/model led strips?
The fact that is taking food is a good sign though. What are you feeding it and how often? I feed mine a piece of salad shrimp every 2-4 days. They also catch pieces of frozen that I feed the fish.
What kind of powerheads are you using? They like medium-high flow, but love intermittent.
How are you testing your water? Do you have a kit or is your lfs checking for you?
What kind of filtration do you have on your tank?
Ph 8.1 amm 0 nitrite .25 nitrate 20. Ok I had the store do it before and they said it was good. and i just did it myself right now and got those. Looks like i need another water change.
The leds Ming dak 2.3w 30 leds
Powerheads factory and Sun sun uv 500l/h
I'm feeding him freeze dried jumbo krill directly 2x a week and he took one today.
My tank gets coral frenzy 2x a week
Jumbo krill 1x
Frozen myosis 1x
Brine flakes 1x
Frozen brine 1x
Marine cuisine 1x
Emerald entree 1x
Frozen bloodhound 1x
I give them a different food every day
I am using ceramic bead, carbon, the incomparable poly filter, chemipure elite and the uv filter.
I have two perculas, as diamond gobie and a lawnmower blenny.
The leds Ming dak 2.3w 30 leds
Powerheads factory and Sun sun uv 500l/h
I'm feeding him freeze dried jumbo krill directly 2x a week and he took one today.
My tank gets coral frenzy 2x a week
Jumbo krill 1x
Frozen myosis 1x
Brine flakes 1x
Frozen brine 1x
Marine cuisine 1x
Emerald entree 1x
Frozen bloodhound 1x
I give them a different food every day
I am using ceramic bead, carbon, the incomparable poly filter, chemipure elite and the uv filter.
I have two perculas, as diamond gobie and a lawnmower blenny.
deedubz
nuttier than a squirrel turd
Nitrites are definitely no good. I'd recommend a water change asap. Even a perfectly healthy anemone can't tolerate ammonia or nitrites. What water do you use, tap or rodi? I can't say that I've heard of those lights, but my guess is the nem isn't getting enough.
Is that as open as the nem gets? Are the tentacles always that short?(really short tentacles typically mean starvation). It's hard for me to tell.. Is that the mouth gaping open? If that's the case, it may honestly be in your best interest to get it out of your tank. That anemone doesn't look too hot. If it does perish, your tank could go downhill fast. A nem can easily nuke a tank and its inhabitants.
I apologize for being blunt, and I'm certainly not trying to be rude. I know from experience that your best chance of success for keeping an anemone is to get the water quality up, go through the initial algae blooms, get some stronger lighting(metal halides, high output t5s, or a higher quality led setup), add some kind of intermittent water movement, and a protein skimmer. I'd also browse the anemone/clownfish section of the forum and read up on how to give yourself the best chance to keep one. I myself almost lost everything when my first died because I didn't read up enough on them. I didn't provide a very good habitat for it and it nearly cost me ALL of my livestock.
Is that as open as the nem gets? Are the tentacles always that short?(really short tentacles typically mean starvation). It's hard for me to tell.. Is that the mouth gaping open? If that's the case, it may honestly be in your best interest to get it out of your tank. That anemone doesn't look too hot. If it does perish, your tank could go downhill fast. A nem can easily nuke a tank and its inhabitants.
I apologize for being blunt, and I'm certainly not trying to be rude. I know from experience that your best chance of success for keeping an anemone is to get the water quality up, go through the initial algae blooms, get some stronger lighting(metal halides, high output t5s, or a higher quality led setup), add some kind of intermittent water movement, and a protein skimmer. I'd also browse the anemone/clownfish section of the forum and read up on how to give yourself the best chance to keep one. I myself almost lost everything when my first died because I didn't read up enough on them. I didn't provide a very good habitat for it and it nearly cost me ALL of my livestock.
His tentacles have been that length since I got him 3 weeks ago honest to God he hasn't changed an ounce since I got him. He looked like that in the bag. I kinda thought he was DOA but once I got him acclimated he perked up a little. I placed him at the top of my rocks where the lighting is best and flow moderate. And he climbed all the way to the bottom where he now. He's been there a couple days so he might have picked a spot finally.
That was part of a shrimp he was eating earlier not his mouth.
I'll do water change after supper have to feed my kid.
That was part of a shrimp he was eating earlier not his mouth.
I'll do water change after supper have to feed my kid.
And ty I have wanted a bonded pair of onyx as long as I can remember and my wonderful husband found them for me for our anniversary. The male has a lot more orange but the female has little. I'm in love with them their names are Search and Rescue.
Amoo
Professional Thread Derailer
Since you're reading Nitrites I'm assuming API test kit?
That piece of shrimp is WAAAAAAAAAY too big for a Nem that size. Like seriously just a quarter of that. In regards to feeding in general, read this: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/feeding-your-nem-stop-and-read-this-first.321885/
That piece of shrimp is WAAAAAAAAAY too big for a Nem that size. Like seriously just a quarter of that. In regards to feeding in general, read this: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/feeding-your-nem-stop-and-read-this-first.321885/
Amoo
Professional Thread Derailer
Crap didn't mean to hit post.
You're lighting is simply not going to work for that Nem and honestly whoever sent you that as a throw in for an order should be ashamed of themselves. Talk about setting people up for failure.
So you have a few choices here:
1: You can take the Nem to your LFS and trade it in for Credit
2: You can spend some money and upgrade your lights, hopefully keep up on your husbandry to keep your parameters in check and we can try to help you keep it alive.
3: 90%+ Chance the Nem will die if you do nothing
My personal recommendation would be to go with Option 1, but if you choose Option 2 I can help with suggestions. Hopefully you don't see Option 3 as a real option, but I wanted to add it, not to be rude, but to be honest.
You're lighting is simply not going to work for that Nem and honestly whoever sent you that as a throw in for an order should be ashamed of themselves. Talk about setting people up for failure.
So you have a few choices here:
1: You can take the Nem to your LFS and trade it in for Credit
2: You can spend some money and upgrade your lights, hopefully keep up on your husbandry to keep your parameters in check and we can try to help you keep it alive.
3: 90%+ Chance the Nem will die if you do nothing
My personal recommendation would be to go with Option 1, but if you choose Option 2 I can help with suggestions. Hopefully you don't see Option 3 as a real option, but I wanted to add it, not to be rude, but to be honest.
Amoo
Professional Thread Derailer
This appears to be your tank: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produ...Dux3q19e2VTX70IqsquTwsc_prmgHVORoCthwQAvD_BwE
This appears to be the specs on your LED:
So 12" away from the light, I'm assuming in air, you're getting 53 Par.
These appear to be your mingdak lights:https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mingdak®-Underwater-Submersible-Saltwater-Freshwater/dp/B013NF4NQA
At 2.3W total you're getting less light from those then if you just walked into the room and turned on a bulb and had bleed over into the tank. They might make things look pretty, but are sadly not worth much in regards to adding to PAR.
So the PAR MINIMUM you need is around like 150-200.
If you have no idea what that even means, watch this from BRS, they explain a bit about PAR with the cheapest LED light you can get:
It would be your choice as you can get something with better output that wouldn't be so hideous over your tank for around $150-$200
Something like
this from reefbreeders https://www.reefbreeders.com/shop/superlux/
this from sbreeflights https://sbreeflights.com/sbox-reef-lights/1-sbox-basic.html
this from AI https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/prime-hd-led-module-black-body-aqua-illumination.html
this from Kessil https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/kessil-a160we-tuna-blue-led-light.html
Hope that gives you an idea of what it would take to even start to think about keeping this thing.
This appears to be the specs on your LED:
So 12" away from the light, I'm assuming in air, you're getting 53 Par.
These appear to be your mingdak lights:https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mingdak®-Underwater-Submersible-Saltwater-Freshwater/dp/B013NF4NQA
At 2.3W total you're getting less light from those then if you just walked into the room and turned on a bulb and had bleed over into the tank. They might make things look pretty, but are sadly not worth much in regards to adding to PAR.
So the PAR MINIMUM you need is around like 150-200.
If you have no idea what that even means, watch this from BRS, they explain a bit about PAR with the cheapest LED light you can get:
It would be your choice as you can get something with better output that wouldn't be so hideous over your tank for around $150-$200
Something like
this from reefbreeders https://www.reefbreeders.com/shop/superlux/
this from sbreeflights https://sbreeflights.com/sbox-reef-lights/1-sbox-basic.html
this from AI https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/prime-hd-led-module-black-body-aqua-illumination.html
this from Kessil https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/kessil-a160we-tuna-blue-led-light.html
Hope that gives you an idea of what it would take to even start to think about keeping this thing.
BoomCorals
2500 Club Member
In addition, stop feeding the nem. That stresses them actually. You can feed a healthy nem or a nem that is bleached and needs the food. But yours is neither so I'd definitely stop feeding for now!
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