Bubble Algae

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officialreefbros

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I have a 40 gallon tank and it has been a constant battle with bubble algae. My nutrients are not that crazy phosphates are at 0.02 my nitrates are high around 25. I have tried the manual removal and the emerald crab approach and it doesn't seem to work very well. Any ideas on what is good? I have seen mixed reviewed on vibrant but am hesitant due to the refugium I have.
 
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vetteguy53081

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I have a 40 gallon tank and it has been a constant battle with bubble algae. My nutrients are not that crazy phosphates are at 0.02 my nitrates are high around 25. I have tried the manual removal and the emerald crab approach and it doesn't seem to work very well. Any ideas on what is good? I have seen mixed reviewed on vibrant but am hesitant due to the refugium I have.
While Ive used Vibrant successfully, I have then grabbed a small needle and have 3/8 tubing ready and attach to end of tubing with rubber band and pop each one and siphon at same time- You will have removed all spores and foreign material in area.
Had to do this in the past with birdsnest coral and was gone 100%.
Other option is to add pitho crabs or emerald crabs (which I do not trust) which will eat them
 
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officialreefbros

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While Ive used Vibrant successfully, I have then grabbed a small needle and have 3/8 tubing ready and attach to end of tubing with rubber band and pop each one and siphon at same time- You will have removed all spores and foreign material in area.
Had to do this in the past with birdsnest coral and was gone 100%.
Other option is to add pitho crabs or emerald crabs (which I do not trust) which will eat them
I have about 7 emerald crabs in there and they don't really pick it off the rocks
 
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vetteguy53081

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I have about 7 emerald crabs in there and they don't really pick it off the rocks
Often they go after food and coral first which is why I stated I do not trust them.
 

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While Ive used Vibrant successfully, I have then grabbed a small needle and have 3/8 tubing ready and attach to end of tubing with rubber band and pop each one and siphon at same time- You will have removed all spores and foreign material in area.
Had to do this in the past with birdsnest coral and was gone 100%.
Other option is to add pitho crabs or emerald crabs (which I do not trust) which will eat them
The whole ‘spore’ thing has been debunked. Valonia sp. does have a spore phase in its life cycle, but they only produce them at certain times when conditions are right and they are produced on the outside of the bubble. If when removing them, you pop them and leave or release into the water column one or part of its rhizoids (which is the part where it connects to whatever surface it is growing on), then a new one can regrow, but simply popping one will not release spores or anything that will produce another cell (they are single cells with multiple nuclei). Emerald crabs have to pop them to eat them, they’re not swallowing them whole.
 
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LARedstickreefer

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The whole ‘spore’ thing has been debunked. Valonia sp. does have a spore phase in its life cycle, but they only produce them at certain times when conditions are right and they are produced on the outside of the bubble. If when removing them, you pop them and leave or release into the water column one or part of its rhizoids (which is the part where it connects to whatever surface it is growing on), then a new one can regrow, but simply popping one will not release spores or anything that will produce another cell (they are single cells with multiple nuclei). Emerald crabs have to pop them to eat them, they’re not swallowing them whole.

Mine seem to be in spore phase 24/7
 
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areefer01

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Manual removal. Only buy the crabs if you want them in your display. Same applies to any potential fish that may, or may not, get recommended. Crabs, fish, may eat it, or may not. Thus me saying only purchase if you planned on having them. As an aside I personally know a few hobbyist who have had good luck with pithos crabs.

In any case you have a 40 breeder. Great sized display. My suggestion is to just spend a couple hours here and there and remove manually. Similar approach to GHA. Within a couple weeks it will more or less be managed or all together removed.

  • Put on some calm music of your choice
  • Few towels
  • Bowl of rodi water to rinse
  • Nitrile or glove of choice
  • Step stool or ladder if needed
  • Net
  • Small scraper, dental pick, with handle to scrape rock

Pass 1 - net any floaters
Pass 2 - focus on larger pieces, reach in, gently take hold, and pull while slightly twisting left to right - it will come off
Pass 3 - focus on hard to reach pieces, reach in, take hold if you can, if not pinch to pop, and pull off piece you can
Pass 4 - focus on difficult pieces to reach or that are small, use scraper, dental pick, tool, and scrape off
Pass 5 - net any debris
Rinse fingers in bowl as needed

This is more or less what I did when I had an outbreak in my 29 gallon biocube. It was so bad that I had pieces floating around in the currents :) Do not worry about popping the bubble algae as there is no proof that it releases spores. This has been discussed a few times with a recent talk on reef beef by Rich. It is similar to my experience when popping them - nothing happened nor did it spread.

The long and short of it is that buying so called natural predators may, or may not, work. So only buy them if you want them. Other than that practice nutrient control and manual removal. The algae will be gone in no time spending a couple hours a week on it.

Honest.
 
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officialreefbros

officialreefbros

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Manual removal. Only buy the crabs if you want them in your display. Same applies to any potential fish that may, or may not, get recommended. Crabs, fish, may eat it, or may not. Thus me saying only purchase if you planned on having them. As an aside I personally know a few hobbyist who have had good luck with pithos crabs.

In any case you have a 40 breeder. Great sized display. My suggestion is to just spend a couple hours here and there and remove manually. Similar approach to GHA. Within a couple weeks it will more or less be managed or all together removed.

  • Put on some calm music of your choice
  • Few towels
  • Bowl of rodi water to rinse
  • Nitrile or glove of choice
  • Step stool or ladder if needed
  • Net
  • Small scraper, dental pick, with handle to scrape rock

Pass 1 - net any floaters
Pass 2 - focus on larger pieces, reach in, gently take hold, and pull while slightly twisting left to right - it will come off
Pass 3 - focus on hard to reach pieces, reach in, take hold if you can, if not pinch to pop, and pull off piece you can
Pass 4 - focus on difficult pieces to reach or that are small, use scraper, dental pick, tool, and scrape off
Pass 5 - net any debris
Rinse fingers in bowl as needed

This is more or less what I did when I had an outbreak in my 29 gallon biocube. It was so bad that I had pieces floating around in the currents :) Do not worry about popping the bubble algae as there is no proof that it releases spores. This has been discussed a few times with a recent talk on reef beef by Rich. It is similar to my experience when popping them - nothing happened nor did it spread.

The long and short of it is that buying so called natural predators may, or may not, work. So only buy them if you want them. Other than that practice nutrient control and manual removal. The algae will be gone in no time spending a couple hours a week on it.

Honest.
you think it is okay to have my hand in the tank for that long? do you turn off the flow pumps during this? Ill give it a shot
 

chipchipmofo

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I did add a small foxface to my tank and he decimated all the bubble algae in a few weeks.
I aint gonna say u have to keep the foxface there for long.. but my "lfs" will take it back.

I plan to place some emeralds now when bubble algae is under control.
 
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you think it is okay to have my hand in the tank for that long? do you turn off the flow pumps during this? Ill give it a shot

There is no need to do this in one setting. Break it up over a couple days. I don't know how much you have but just spend 10 or 15 minutes and call it a day. Treat it like any other tank maintenance that you would do like using a turkey baster and gently blowing on the rocks, or cleaning the class, or anything similar.

Most of the work will be setting up and getting things ready so we don't make a mess. Then 10 minutes or so clearing out what you can.
 

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There is no need to do this in one setting. Break it up over a couple days. I don't know how much you have but just spend 10 or 15 minutes and call it a day. Treat it like any other tank maintenance that you would do like using a turkey baster and gently blowing on the rocks, or cleaning the class, or anything similar.

Most of the work will be setting up and getting things ready so we don't make a mess. Then 10 minutes or so clearing out what you can.
My bubble algae regrows after a couple of days. I swear that this stuff is the absolute worst.
 
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anthonymckay

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There are enough Vibrant horror stories on the forums that while it may work... I'd stay away from it. I previously had read that a 3-4x dose of fluconazole would eliminate bubble algae, and saw a few videos of this on YouTube. I tried it, and after a few days many of my acros browned out, lots of zoas looked very unhappy, and I lost a few torch heads. So dont go down that route... lol.

Everything that people suggest "will eat bubble algae" is really hit or miss in reality. I have emerald crabs, urchins, tangs, rabbitfish, etc. All were things people said "would definitely eat bubble algae". None of mine do. The only exception is the tangs and rabbit fish. If I break some off a rock, they go crazy eating the pieces floating around. As long as it's attached to the rocks, they dont touch it. As such, I take a small metal pick, and just periodically scrape bubble algae off the rocks and let them eat it as it floats around.
 

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I have a 40 gallon tank and it has been a constant battle with bubble algae. My nutrients are not that crazy phosphates are at 0.02 my nitrates are high around 25. I have tried the manual removal and the emerald crab approach and it doesn't seem to work very well. Any ideas on what is good? I have seen mixed reviewed on vibrant but am hesitant due to the refugium I have.
My foxface and scopas tang both eat them as fast as they appear.
 
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The problem is a foxface or scopas tang is only a solution if you keep it in the tank, and it won't be happy in there long term both being very large fish. Algaecides like vibrant work, but they throw everything out of whack. A varied cuc of different herbivores and omnivores is your best bet imo
 
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