Bryopsis or HA + few questions

itelshot

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I had a lot of hair algae at one time. I accidentally cleaned too much rock with peroxide and knocked off the biology. Dino's came out, did 3 blkouts over the fall. Eventually the stones became heavily overgrown with fluffy unknown shrubs over time as I started to regain the previous light intensity, crisp to the touch, which I eventually identified as possible bryopsis. Before the new year, I cleaned the stones outside the aquarium. Recently started dosing bacteria to tidy things up, to displace the dinos. Nitrate and phosphate I dosed, they are within the normal range. RODI water. The white light I am just starting to get back to normal. The dinos are way less now.
I need help figuring out if it's definitely bryopsis. There may be more than one species, some may be HA.
Number 1 is either this or that. First a tube like this is pulled out, then fluffy twigs grow out of it.
2. already looks more like bryopsis, there is not so much of it, I think only on this place.
Number 3 is a short bush fluff, which has grown for 3 weeks, it is covered almost everything where the light falls directly (probably these bushes and the aquarium overgrown, it was difficult in such a density to see the structure + I did not look very much).
it's probably just HA
4. 99% HA, some growth on the glass (in general there is less fouling on the glass after killing the flora)
5. Most likely another hotspot of some other bryopsis.
Help to identify, advise how to get rid of it. Mechanical cleaning is unlikely to help, a lot of peroxide is probably not desirable. Variant with fluconazole, I think will kill and +- good algae algae like caulerpa, and HA under clean - which is kind of also not very good, because even more shake the biology

photo_2024-01-13_00-44-14.jpg photo_2024-01-13_00-44-17.jpg photo_2024-01-13_00-44-22.jpg photo_2024-01-13_00-44-25.jpg photo_2024-01-13_00-44-28.jpg photo_2024-01-13_00-44-31.jpg
 
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good chance it both by the looks of it
Can it regrow from cells if I'm brushing it outside of tank or constantly sucking through filter to the sump like sometimes do? Cause i don't know what else i can do with it. Fluconazole will beat biology again i think, not a variant.
 

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Can it regrow from cells if I'm brushing it outside of tank or constantly sucking through filter to the sump like sometimes do? Cause i don't know what else i can do with it. Fluconazole will beat biology again i think, not a variant.
Most likely not getting everything when you’re brushing it. How old is your tank and what’s the size. What your clean up crew ?
 
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Add an urchin if you want
Hm, i haven't got any yet, but maybe later. Maybe should ask in local stores about nearest availability, cause now we have problems with it thanks to russia and air delivery...
Btw are they difficult to care or picky?
 
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Most likely not getting everything when you’re brushing it. How old is your tank and what’s the size. What your clean up crew ?
No fish yet, 2 turbo snails, columbelids, old uncountable population of patella snails.
The aquarium is quite old, about 4 years. But improved the water quality, changed the sand and glued a new stone on the old one, increasing rockwork, I only at the beginning of summer to add corals.
I used to have a crab from the local sea - that's how my journey into marine aquariums began).
Briopsis grows most on the "old" base part of the rocks
 

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Honestly, I think you’re trying too much.
Take rocks out and scrub them with H2O2, then add fish and coral to both graze the algae as well as compete for the nutrients.
An urchin and other cuc is advised as well.
 
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Honestly, I think you’re trying too much.
Take rocks out and scrub them with H2O2, then add fish and coral to both graze the algae as well as compete for the nutrients.
An urchin and other cuc is advised as well.
Oddly enough, I cleaned too much stone with peroxide at the end of the summer and struggled with dino... all fall.
Nutrients not so much, I even dose nitrate with phosphate
 

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Looks like Hair Algae to me, not Bryopsis. My Bryopsis reminds me of Turf Grass, and just like turf grass when you pull it up what it’s growing on comes up too. It pulls off pieces of rock. Yellow Tangs love to eat Bryopsis, not so much on Hair Algae. To get rid of my GHA, I did the slow ramp up of Vodka. The mistake I made was not ramping the Vodka dosing back down after the results were achieved. Had to tear all my sump equipment down and do multiple cleanings.
 

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Oddly enough, I cleaned too much stone with peroxide at the end of the summer and struggled with dino... all fall.
Nutrients not so much, I even dose nitrate with phosphate
Cleaning too much would throw you to the other end of the spectrum, there’s a balance in which this method does work well.

As for your nutrients, I had no doubt they would be low, as they’re currently being consumed primarily by the algae.

Introduction of corals in conjunction with physical removal of the algae and improvement in cuc will result in a good competition to the algae, as well as a better biological balance in the system.
 
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Cleaning too much would throw you to the other end of the spectrum, there’s a balance in which this method does work well.

As for your nutrients, I had no doubt they would be low, as they’re currently being consumed primarily by the algae.

Introduction of corals in conjunction with physical removal of the algae and improvement in cuc will result in a good competition to the algae, as well as a better biological balance in the system.
So you say that i should clean it again with peroxide, but slower and in less surface? Cause now I'm scared of dino outbreak again. And what concentration of peroxide is better?
 
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Magic031707

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Just got done going through this. I dosed hydrogen peroxide every night at 1ml/10gals and mb7 during the day at the same amount for about 2 weeks. 98% of it is gone and it worked well for me and the CUC did the rest.
 

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So you say that i should clean it again with peroxide, but slower and in less surface? Cause now I'm scared of dino outbreak again. And what concentration of peroxide is better?
Dino outbreak is caused by biological instability, which is something that is bound to happen in an environment with no live rocks and an aggressive cleaning of your rock work.

This could also happen momentarily with the use of live rocks too, however it’d stabilize on its own rather quickly.

When you have some coral in the system however, they tend to both introduce and keep a beneficial population of bacteria on them, which often times helps to stabilize the system faster when biological instability is caused by various outside factors like cleaning your rocks for example.

That is why when you do use H2O2 to eradicate algae, you never do so to your whole rock work all at once, but little by little, and also only scrub the surface of the rocks where algae is growing.

A 3% H2O2 dripped strategically with a syringe onto spots where algae is growing together with scrubbing it with a brush would be the most affective, yet not so harsh approach.

Of course, make sure to rinse the rocks well before reintroducing them back to the system.
 
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Dino outbreak is caused by biological instability, which is something that is bound to happen in an environment with no live rocks and an aggressive cleaning of your rock work.

This could also happen momentarily with the use of live rocks too, however it’d stabilize on its own rather quickly.

When you have some coral in the system however, they tend to both introduce and keep a beneficial population of bacteria on them, which often times helps to stabilize the system faster when biological instability is caused by various outside factors like cleaning your rocks for example.

That is why when you do use H2O2 to eradicate algae, you never do so to your whole rock work all at once, but little by little, and also only scrub the surface of the rocks where algae is growing.

A 3% H2O2 dripped strategically with a syringe onto spots where algae is growing together with scrubbing it with a brush would be the most affective, yet not so harsh approach.

Of course, make sure to rinse the rocks well before reintroducing them back to the system.
Okay, thank you. I think I'm going to do it in zones, because the bryopsis grows evenly all over that part with the old rock.
How aggressive is the peroxide to the corals? Although I think I've even heard of it being used instead of lugol for dipping.
Also, as far as I understand, the peroxide residue in the aquarium is just harmlessly decomposes into oxygen and water?

IMG_20240203_211849_051.jpg
 
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DanyL

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How aggressive is the peroxide to the corals? Although I think I've even heard of it being used instead of lugol for dipping.
Some corals can tolerate it quite well, while others can be extremely sensitive to it (mostly SPS).

I would steer away from dipping the corals themselves, with the syringe and brush method I suggested earlier you don’t need to.

Also, as far as I understand, the peroxide residue in the aquarium is just harmlessly decomposes into oxygen and water?
I wouldn’t say harmlessly.
Some people dose trace amounts of it for algae or ich control. But unless you’re planning to do it on purpose with good measure and keep it under control - you don’t really want it to get into your water.
 

Magic031707

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Like I mentioned in my post earlier, I am currently using hydrogen peroxide for either Bryopsis or HA, but it work within 2 weeks. I also dip corals a 50/50 ratio of tank water and 3% hydrogen peroxide for 2 minutes. Have been cases I've almost forgot they were in there and they have gone Like 5-6 mins with no ill effects. My buddy dose hydrogen peroxide once a week along with mb7 for maintenance
 

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