Some look like ostreopsis and others look like amphidinium. Do they create long streamers with cysts and enter the water column at night? If so, ostreopsis
Dinoflagellates - Microscopic ID
May I add this here, considering I currently have dino’s to deal with. It may be useful to anybody with identifying, although there are lots more strains I believe. Images from left to right are identified below.
humble.fish
What are your current parameters? Alk, cal, mg, n03, p04, salinity and ph
0 Nitrates and 0 Phosphates will actually encourage dinos. They can survive and thrive in low nutrient systems. See below.
Zero Nitrates + Zero Phosphates = DINOFLAGELLATES
Well, I have dinoflagellates. I tested my nitrates and phosphates yesterday, and the results were zero for both. I understand that I need to raise my nitrates and phosphates, but I am not sure what I should be using to do so. I have been looking through the R2R forums, and I have seen...
www.reef2reef.com
Your first step is to raise you nutrients. Get nitrates up to 5-10 and phosphates to 0.03-0.10. You can do this by dosing nitrate and phosphate products. And then you have to hold them in that range. If you have a skimmer or refugium turn the skimmer off and reduce lighting hours on the refugium. Also stop doing water changes for the time being.
Do the dinos look better at night or early morning? If so theyre a species that go into the water column at night. A properly sized uv sterilizer will work wonders against water bourne dinos.
Lastly after your nutrients are stable and not hitting 0, you need to add bateria to outcompete the dinos. The dr tim product line is great for this along with adding live phytoplankton. I had great success beating my dinos with adding dr tims refresh, waste away, ecobalance and algae barns live phyto mix
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