API vs. HANNA

[Signalhead]

Good afternoon,
There I go again. I'm having these odd reading with my hannas. This is all the test that im doing. For example phospate is 0 using the API. It I use the HANNA ULR .23 another day <.25 on the API and .68 on the HANNA ULR. Is just me or Am I i going crazy? Same issue with the other test. NH3 0 with one and HANNA IS .60

The tank temp is around 76° to 77° on average and the salinity 1.022. All the expiration dates are ok and I have replace the batteries.

Any suggest thank you in advance.

 

[Dread Pirate Dave]

Are they consistent? I'm sure mine are not 100% correct but I think they're close enough. As long as phosphate doesn't read 0 today and 20 an hour later, I feel comfortable using them. I am not trying to pin down exact numbers.

 

[taricha]

API phosphate is not very sensitive, nor is it intended to be. Hanna is the more appropriate for low values of PO4.
Is this a tank that is new or cycling or unstable? I mean is there some reason that ammonia might actually be present?

 

[SuperReefNoob]

Threw away my API kit after it continuously showed 0 nitrate and 0 phosphate, checked again with a Hanna and cross checked to a RedSea kit and my phos and nitrate turned out to actually be 2.1 and 115......

 

[PharmrJohn]

I wouldn't use API.....Ever. My plan to use Hanna for NO3, PO4, Salinity (with a refractometer as backup), and ALK. Milwaukee MW102 for pH, RedSea Calcium Pro for Ca and Acueforest Mg Pro for Mg. For what it's worth.....

 

[AetherealKnight]

I used API in my early days of reefing, once I tried Hanna and Milwaukee I never went back to API, it's just a lot easier and more accurate ime.

 

[PharmrJohn]

I've been using API in my early days of reefing, once I tried Hanna and Milwaukee I never went back to API, it's just a lot easier and more accurate ime.

Oh yeah. Those are more accurate. I used to use Salifert. Back 15 years ago, those were the go to.

 

[Signalhead]

Are they consistent? I'm sure mine are not 100% correct but I think they're close enough. As long as phosphate doesn't read 0 today and 20 an hour later, I feel comfortable using them. I am not trying to pin down exact numbers.

Hello, the numbers are at the same time. We'll close. I do all my API Then move to do the HANNA. sometimes I have issues with my vision am colors

 

[Signalhead]

API phosphate is not very sensitive, nor is it intended to be. Hanna is the more appropriate for low values of PO4.
Is this a tank that is new or cycling or unstable? I mean is there some reason that ammonia might actually be present?

Just trying to do the right things. After a GHA. The tag API Shows 0 HANNA sometimes give my a trace. Thank is about two years. But I did replace the base of the tank few months ago.at that time started doing weekly test. It's been stable.

 

[Signalhead]

Threw away my API kit after it continuously showed 0 nitrate and 0 phosphate, checked again with a Hanna and cross checked to a RedSea kit and my phos and nitrate turned out to actually be 2.1 and 115......

I will be doing the same with the API. Going to the trash when i get back. With regards to HANNA some are easy to use some no so much. As I get older, I'm considering neptune to do that for me.