Ai Prime settings for mixed reef Waterbox cube 20

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Pick a color thats visually pleasing without maxing out the power. Keep UV and violet medium to low or only high for brief periods (particularly UV) as these often melt the plastic. Play around with the demo mode till you figure it out.
 
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Pick a color thats visually pleasing without maxing out the power. Keep UV and violet medium to low or only high for brief periods (particularly UV) as these often melt the plastic. Play around with the demo mode till you figure it out.
Thanks for the advice will do that
 
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Actually just did that, gonna give the Saxby a try for a bit. Anything I need to know about par levels that will help my case here I’m in the dark when in comes to that
i run a modified version of this schedule (had a little too much green and red for my liking) and the time is a little different
but i’ve got my primes / hydra 15 or so inches off the water surface & it’s doing great

as far as par, honestly couldn’t tell ya sorry
ask around locals and maybe you can borrow/rent a par meter
 
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i run a modified version of this schedule (had a little too much green and red for my liking) and the time is a little different
but i’ve got my primes / hydra 15 or so inches off the water surface & it’s doing great

as far as par, honestly couldn’t tell ya sorry
ask around locals and maybe you can borrow/rent a par meter
Thanks shcrimps, gonna see how the schedule looks when the lights are on tomorrow see if I need to make any adjustments
 

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Actually just did that, gonna give the Saxby a try for a bit. Anything I need to know about par levels that will help my case here I’m in the dark when in comes to that
Someone else can chime in on PAR but, with two fingers on your screen, move left/right to change time schedule. I use Saxby starting from 8 .m. and left as is. Two fingers up/down to change intensity.
 
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Someone else can chime in on PAR but, with two fingers on your screen, move left/right to change time schedule. I use Saxby starting from 8 .m. and left as is. Two fingers up/down to change intensity.
Thanks was tryin log to figure out the time thing on it as well appreciated
 
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Actually just did that, gonna give the Saxby a try for a bit. Anything I need to know about par levels that will help my case here I’m in the dark when in comes to that
I use Saxby‘s on twin AI Primes over a 24”x12” tank. I’m waiting on light for another tank before renting a par meter so I don’t know numbers yet. I set the acclimation to 30 days and after three weeks the SPS and LPS all seem ok with the new lights and schedule. I tried all the signature series and WWC AB+ and 24g Fluval settings and found them less appealing. Saxbys makes a lot of sense and has a proven track record. WWC absolutely does too, but I don’t like the hyper blue color. All the fish look muted and dull as do the less fluorescent corals.
 
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On a Waterbox 20, the light should be mounted about 10" above the water level. If you want to do a true mixed reef with some SPS, you'll have to run your schedule (whichever you choose) at a pretty high intensity with a single light.

Any of the main schedules will work... AB+, Saxby, Pirates, etc, but you'll have to pretty much max them out to get SPS PAR.

If you haven't already, watch this video. It'll give you a much better understanding of your light, how it works and how to use it with your tank (basically an 18" cube which is covered in the video). Then you can apply that info to whatever schedule you choose.

 
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A simple schedule is first 4 100%.
The rest at 50%. This will grow anything you want. 10hrs peak with a 1 hr ramp up/down.

This gives a very halide look, imo.

I ran the uv at 140% and melted a couple lens. Been running above for a year now with no melted lens amd great color and growth. A replacement lens is $5.
20g running 2 16's.
20220926_094502.jpg
 

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