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I have actually found it to be the blue providing more par. I have a different light though for my main tank. I do have a blade on another tank that I just took one of the presets and liked the par it provided. If i turned my blues up to 80% I would cook my tank.I would turn the UV up to 80% as well. Turning the blue channels up to 100% would be a good idea if you do a 60 day adaptation period. You get more PAR from white light than from blue and 50% white is likely what hurt your coral. The schedule looks good to me.
This is my AI schedule for comparison:
Forgot to add…this is one prime over a tank 10g less, and these are my settings for gonipora and zoa.I run my prime at 75-80% for the blues and uv, 5-10% green, 0 red, and whites around 15%
This is over a 15g Waterbox with the gooseneck mount
Interesting. I have measured PAR under all the channels individually and together. At work now but can post numbers later. I have 6 AI hydra 32 HD over this tank and a couple of hydra 64 over another tank. Always funny to find different results from similar lighting.I have actually found it to be the blue providing more par. I have a different light though for my main tank. I do have a blade on another tank that I just took one of the presets and liked the par it provided. If i turned my blues up to 80% I would cook my tank.
I was just getting ready to say that about the uv. The store that sold me the unit said to not run the uv above 30 because it will melt the lenses. The store I tend to buy the sps frags from said uv irritates sps and they recommend against uv.I would NOT turn up the uv to 80%.
That will/could melt your lense.
However, I would get it off zero. Maybe start at 20%
Thread '2x Ai Prime 16HD - lenses melting on both' https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/2x-ai-prime-16hd-lenses-melting-on-both.1037948/
I do have the acros directly under the light, maybe 5 inches under the water. All I can say is I slowly raised the whites to 50% and I lost aI have the same light over a Waterbox 35.2. I've got my lights turned up to around 110% for blues and 65% UV running a modified Zaxby schedule which I turned up a little. I believe the whites are around 50% as well. I am only getting around 250-300 PAR 4" under my water line and 150 PAR at the bottom of the tank directly under the light. The back corners are only getting around 65 PAR. My tank is roughly 18" deep. I too am concerned about melting lenses and don't want to turn it up anymore, so I ordered a Noop K7 Pro III which is a way more powerful light for the money. The Prime 16HD is good for softies and lower light SPS but I don't see it growing Acros very well unless they are centered under the light at the very top or you buy a second one. Right now mine is set about 8" over the water.
Well depending on your acros, they may be just what they need. I haven't put any in my tank yet because i know I'm not going to get the amount of light I need for acros unless I use two. I do have a birdsnest, digitata, and an anacropora that seem to do well with my current set up, but they also don't need but a couple hundred par. What are your water parameters like?I do have the acros directly under the light, maybe 5 inches under the water. All I can say is I slowly raised the whites to 50% and I lost a
Lot of coral. Even some acros. I’m just trying to find that sweet spot. Some people are telling me to set all channels at 100 %…that seems excessive to me
pH 8.2Well depending on your acros, they may be just what they need. I haven't put any in my tank yet because i know I'm not going to get the amount of light I need for acros unless I use two. I do have a birdsnest, digitata, and an anacropora that seem to do well with my current set up, but they also don't need but a couple hundred par. What are your water parameters like?