a new theory in reef photography

JuniorMC8704 · Jan 6, 2009

I think one of the things that most of us run into when taking photos of our reef is never having enough light in the right spot.

I notice that shadows make certain corals very hard to photograph, and proper exposure for one area is drastically off on the other portion of the photo.

Things HDR, while awesome, would be pretty hard to use for reefs.

I just ordered Day Blue filters for my hot shoe flash. They are designed to take 3500K light and turn it into a 6500k(ish) light...

Since my flash is about 6600k in temp, my thought is to stack multiple filters in front of the flash, and ramp it up, hopefully, around 15k-20k...

If this works as planned, this could really change the way I take pics of corals.

The options would be endless...

Ill have them thursday...ill be sure post some results as soon as i have some...

Poseidon · Jan 6, 2009

I don't think it works that way Jr. If you pass your flash through a single filter it will certainly change the color temp to match that of the filter, but any subsequent filters will not change the color temp, they will however decrease output. (I think.) So, in effect any filters after the first will act like neutral density filters do over the lens. I am about 80% certain that this is correct, but maybe Gary would know for sure?

Mr.Firemouth · Jan 6, 2009

I was wondering what the Hoya polarizing filters would do also on the end of the lens?
I am thinking of picking up one.

JuniorMC8704 · Jan 6, 2009

Mike,

I see you point...for $5.50 we will see....worst case, it will be atleast a small step in the right direction.

A poloraizer isnt going to really help for reef photography...maybe cut down on reflection i suppose, but beyond that, i think it will actually make things more difficult. Not to mention, reducing the amount of light that the sensor will pick up in a given time frame...

Mr.Firemouth · Jan 6, 2009

I am going to use these for my FW tanks to help with light....
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/shop/1388/Slave_Flashes_Accessories.html

any ideas on these? i am going to flash one from a tripod thru the side and another from the top.

JuniorMC8704 · Jan 6, 2009

all i see are bulbs...

Saltysteele · Jan 6, 2009

i think you all know my frustration in just this subject, from my previous posts.

i've been thinking of setting up a "photobooth tank" for taking pix of corals. i think for the most part, most of us have, at least our favorites, in the frag rack in addition to the dt.

so, i've been trying to decide how to set up a small tank just for taking pic's. wouldn't need to be plumbed or anything. just something to hold the coral while you take pix. maybe paint the sides, back and bottom black, to kind of have jr's spatula built in.

any thoughts on this idea? with the small tank, it might be easier to get lighting better adjusted with smaller outfits. i know this isn't the same as what your proposing jr, but thought i'd ask for opinions, being the topic is better, more even lighting and how to achieve it.

sorry if it's inappropriate here

JuniorMC8704 · Jan 6, 2009

Ive done that many times...

if you have a sump in the basement type setup, just tie in a tiny tank, and black out 3 of sides, have a simple overflow, and a maxijet return.

go to FAST SIGNS buy the vinyl sheets they cut letters out of, and slap that on the sides and back....much cheaper and easier than paint.

gparr · Jan 6, 2009

Salty,
I've used just such an arrangement, too. You'll have to have at least some level of flow in the tank to get the corals to open once you move them, particularly SPS. It's also helpful if you are pumping the same water that is in the display/frag tank into and out of the "photo tank."

"Photo tanks" can be very effective if all you're after is a shot of coral on a black background. I find them limiting because you'll be confined to relatively small pieces of movable coral and/or frags. Large colonies will always have to be shot in the display. It also always looks more natural to have some rock in the background. At some point the coral "portrait" with a black background gets rather boring.
Gary

gparr · Jan 6, 2009

Junior, I'm with Poseidon on this one. I have doubts it will work, for the reasons he gave, but am most curious to see what results you get. The only filtration technique I've used with any success is a graduated ND to even out the lighting extremes, and that's limiting and tedious.

Rich, a polarizer will not help. Virtually all polarizers cost you two stops of light, the very thing you can't afford. They also are only effective at 90 deg. from a point source of light, i.e., the sun. With most MH systems, you have two point sources and with T5s or PCs you don't really have a point source. The light loss is the biggest drawback, though.

Gary

Mr.Firemouth · Jan 6, 2009

Junior, the slave bulbs are what I am referring to.
They screw into any 120v socket.
You use those clamp on work lights from the hardware store.
Those are aimable lamps cuz they have a swivel and that bowl shade in silver to help with the flash.
You can mount the clamp on light on a tripod leg or you can aim down from the top or from the side. Like any slave flash it is your choice on how to aim it. I prefer to use it in slave mode to flash with my flash and fill the area with light, but it comes with a USB cable to the camera to sync the flash.
It's not bad for $50. It also has color filter lenses.