A few questions on the banded snake eel

q8cyu

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Hi, I have a few questions thanks in advance

TLDR; tank size for a banded snake eel, special information on care and fish compatibility including gobies, small tangs, Midas blenny, clownfish, damsels, dwarf angle, wrasses, and cardinals, invertebrates are crabs of different kinds (can be removed), snails, sea stars, shrimp(can also be removed), anemones, and urchins. Any reason in why they are considered difficult to keep.

Care info questions; I’m struggling to find a lot of information on snake eels (specifically banded) from what I have seen they won’t eat fish and will only eat small shrimps or hermits, I can’t find a tank size would they be ok in a 75, 4ft tank? Is there anything important I should know about their care, I found that they are considered hard to keep is there any radon for this. I have read through as many articles as I have found.

Stocking questions; I do have 2 gobies, one Randall’s (around 2in) and a diamondback sand sifter (around 4-5in) a Midas blenny fully grown, possum wrasse, tangs, a dwarf angle, clownfish, springer damsels, and a pair of cardinal fish. For invertebrates I have hermits (which if I do get a eel I will remove and put in the refugium to help with algae control there), conchs and other snails, a starfish, a anemone crab and 3 rock flower anemones (which I do plan on getting more to crate a rock flower anemone garden), urchins, and a cleaner and blood shrimp, which I can also put them somewhere safe too.

I am thinking of adding a few more wrasses; 2 fairys’ and a cleaner, and either a mandarin or anthias.

(I’m still learning so if my tank is overstocked sorry, I do not have aggression except with one fish which just snapped recently a year and a half after I got him, and has been removed)

Thanks for the help.
 

Slocke

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I have already sent you my article and given you a long detailed answer on this topic. As far as I know I am the only person on this forum who has kept these eels successfully. I'm happy to answer all questions about their care but not if you ignore me and my advice.Is that understood?

 

lion king

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Snake eels are a species that many do not succeed in, that's why you have such a hard time finding info. @Slocke is doing really well with them and is the resident expert. Initially their failure comes from feeding and initial health likely due to internal parasites. So accessing initial health and treating with general cure if necessary is the 1st step, initially offering live food to trigger a feeding response. And yes, regardless of what anyone else says, they will eat small fish. Their natural diet consists of small fish, really do I have to spell it out, they are predators by nature. Randalls, possum wrasse, cardinals; and any fish this size, body shape, or just hang out waiting to be eaten, may be eaten. Improper tank conditions also leads to stress and these eels do bury themselves or at least need long lengths of buried pvc. This eel can reach lengths around 30" in captivity, the length of tank should be considered taking into account how active they are, whether they cruise alot or stay tucked away, another question @Slocke could answer.
 
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q8cyu

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I have already sent you my article and given you a long detailed answer on this topic. As far as I know I am the only person on this forum who has kept these eels successfully. I'm happy to answer all questions about their care but not if you ignore me and my advice.Is that understood?

thank you, Sorry if I comes off as I’m ignoring you, I have read your article and I do read every reply to any of my threads even if I don’t always Respond.

My only real questions are…

Would they be ok in a 75 4ft tank

And would they be ok with my current stock; cardinals, clowns, goby’s, are the fish that most concern me

Thanks
 
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q8cyu

q8cyu

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Snake eels are a species that many do not succeed in, that's why you have such a hard time finding info. @Slocke is doing really well with them and is the resident expert. Initially their failure comes from feeding and initial health likely due to internal parasites. So accessing initial health and treating with general cure if necessary is the 1st step, initially offering live food to trigger a feeding response. And yes, regardless of what anyone else says, they will eat small fish. Their natural diet consists of small fish, really do I have to spell it out, they are predators by nature. Randalls, possum wrasse, cardinals; and any fish this size, body shape, or just hang out waiting to be eaten, may be eaten. Improper tank conditions also leads to stress and these eels do bury themselves or at least need long lengths of buried pvc. This eel can reach lengths around 30" in captivity, the length of tank should be considered taking into account how active they are, whether they cruise alot or stay tucked away, another question @Slocke could answer.
Thanks
 

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I’m not an eel expert, that’s why we have Mr @Slocke here, but I will say that the 4 foot tank footprint is too small. The issue with your tank, is a standard 75 gallon 4 foot long doesn’t havw much depth or width, so this would take away a good amount of space for the eel. Maybe while it grows and is still a foot or a bit more long, but this could be pushing it. A 5 foot would be minimum in my books. Like said above these guys need that open swim space they like, they will spend most of the day cruising openly and around the fringes of the rock work. This is one of the key factors to their success. I wouldnt suggest keeping one of these until you’re more experienced. Not saying you’re inexperienced, but that extra knowledge with more delicate fish really does help 110%. Also be careful with the Wetmorella (Possum wrasse) if you do decide to get the eel, as it might find it as a snack. Not trying to come on strong or being rude, sorry if it sounds that way lol. I hope you have success.
thank you, Sorry if I comes off as I’m ignoring you, I have read your article and I do read every reply to any of my threads even if I don’t always Respond.

My only real questions are…

Would they be ok in a 75 4ft tank

And would they be ok with my current stock; cardinals, clowns, goby’s, are the fish that most concern me

Thanks
 

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q8cyu

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I’m not an eel expert, that’s why we have Mr @Slocke here, but I will say that the 4 foot tank footprint is too small. The issue with your tank, is a standard 75 gallon 4 foot long doesn’t havw much depth or width, so this would take away a good amount of space for the eel. Maybe while it grows and is still a foot or a bit more long, but this could be pushing it. A 5 foot would be minimum in my books. Like said above these guys need that open swim space they like, they will spend most of the day cruising openly and around the fringes of the rock work. This is one of the key factors to their success. I wouldnt suggest keeping one of these until you’re more experienced. Not saying you’re inexperienced, but that extra knowledge with more delicate fish really does help 110%. Also be careful with the Wetmorella (Possum wrasse) if you do decide to get the eel, as it might find it as a snack. Not trying to come on strong or being rude, sorry if it sounds that way lol. I hope you have success.
Thanks
 

Slocke

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Hi, I have a few questions thanks in advance

TLDR; tank size for a banded snake eel, special information on care and fish compatibility including gobies, small tangs, Midas blenny, clownfish, damsels, dwarf angle, wrasses, and cardinals, invertebrates are crabs of different kinds (can be removed), snails, sea stars, shrimp(can also be removed), anemones, and urchins. Any reason in why they are considered difficult to keep.
They are difficult because they are shy and picky and often not healthy on collection. This video shows me feeding mine a year in. Notice how I have to hand feed it tiny bits of salmon.


Care info questions; I’m struggling to find a lot of information on snake eels (specifically banded) from what I have seen they won’t eat fish and will only eat small shrimps or hermits, I can’t find a tank size would they be ok in a 75, 4ft tank?
Tank size is difficult as they are not active most of the time but very active in short bursts. To truly appreciate it I would do something bigger but I started with a 45gallon and had a lot of success in the short period it was in there.
Stocking questions; I do have 2 gobies, one Randall’s (around 2in) and a diamondback sand sifter (around 4-5in) a Midas blenny fully grown, possum wrasse, tangs, a dwarf angle, clownfish, springer damsels, and a pair of cardinal fish. For invertebrates I have hermits (which if I do get a eel I will remove and put in the refugium to help with algae control there), conchs and other snails, a starfish, a anemone crab and 3 rock flower anemones (which I do plan on getting more to crate a rock flower anemone garden), urchins, and a cleaner and blood shrimp, which I can also put them somewhere safe too.
Gobies scare me because they are easily chased into there holes by eels. Mine is so useless I would trust it with almost all fish but I doubt all are as timid as mine. So in summary it is as safe a predatory fish as you can get but definitely capable of eating a goby in the right circumstances.
I am thinking of adding a few more wrasses; 2 fairys’ and a cleaner, and either a mandarin or anthias.
Nothing wrong with any of those probably.
(I’m still learning so if my tank is overstocked sorry, I do not have aggression except with one fish which just snapped recently a year and a half after I got him, and has been removed)
The question is can you maintain nutrients and water quality. An eel will always add a lot.
Thanks for the help.
 
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q8cyu

q8cyu

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They are difficult because they are shy and picky and often not healthy on collection. This video shows me feeding mine a year in. Notice how I have to hand feed it tiny bits of salmon.



Tank size is difficult as they are not active most of the time but very active in short bursts. To truly appreciate it I would do something bigger but I started with a 45gallon and had a lot of success in the short period it was in there.

Gobies scare me because they are easily chased into there holes by eels. Mine is so useless I would trust it with almost all fish but I doubt all are as timid as mine. So in summary it is as safe a predatory fish as you can get but definitely capable of eating a goby in the right circumstances.

Nothing wrong with any of those probably.

The question is can you maintain nutrients and water quality. An eel will always add a lot.

I do think I can maintain;
the water quality as I am planing to get a refugium set up ( just need a light) and I am trying to see if I can keep mangroves, if you can I can add as many as I need to keep the water quality good along with a skimmer.
Would you say that a 4ft tank is ok or should I wait on getting one until I get a larger tank (which if it does happen won’t be for many years)
(sorry if I sound repetitive)
Thanks
 

Petcrazyson

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the water quality as I am planing to get a refugium set up ( just need a light
A refugium will only help to a certain extent, so I personally wouldnt rely on just the fuge and mangroves to keep the water clean and have success with the eels through there, though mangroves are a cool idea
 
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q8cyu

q8cyu

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A refugium will only help to a certain extent, so I personally wouldnt rely on just the fuge and mangroves to keep the water clean and have success with the eels through there, though mangroves are a cool idea
I would still do water changes, the fuge/mangroves are just to help maintain everything
 

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I do think I can maintain;
the water quality as I am planing to get a refugium set up ( just need a light) and I am trying to see if I can keep mangroves, if you can I can add as many as I need to keep the water quality good along with a skimmer.
I use a large refugium and an oversized skimmer. Works for me. For light I use a strong grow light from Lowes. Much cheaper then anything you'll get from an Aquarium store.
Would you say that a 4ft tank is ok or should I wait on getting one until I get a larger tank (which if it does happen won’t be for many years)
Thats a hard question but they are not intelligent fish. It will come out and hunt for food and go back to its burrow. Its really about you. It is a fish you want to see swim and the more room you give it the better.
 

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I would still do water changes, the fuge/mangroves are just to help maintain everything
Not saying the water changes would stop, just saying you’d need something additional from the fuge and mangroves if very pristine water is your goal.
 
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q8cyu

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I use a large refugium and an oversized skimmer. Works for me. For light I use a strong grow light from Lowes. Much cheaper then anything you'll get from an Aquarium store.

Thats a hard question but they are not intelligent fish. It will come out and hunt for food and go back to its burrow. Its really about you. It is a fish you want to see swim and the more room you give it the better.
I don’t mind If it hides or swims I would like the eel to feel comfortable and stay healthy
 

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A refugium will only help to a certain extent, so I personally wouldnt rely on just the fuge and mangroves to keep the water clean and have success with the eels through there, though mangroves are a cool idea

I only run refugiums and a good size skimmer, I do NO water changes. I am running fowlrs, one 90G with a rhino and 4 lionfish. A 210g with a tessa and a bc29 with a trio of pygmy waspfish and a flame hawk, NO water changes for 4 years now. Low light and barely clean at all. I stopped doing water changes when I got rid of my last reef and turned it into my 90G venom fowlr, I removed the filter sock in an eshopps sump and put in a submersible tunze refugium light. I run gracalaria, ulva, and caulerpa. BC29 has a refugium chamber, and I run a 40B sidecar for the 210g.

 
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q8cyu

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I only run refugiums and a good size skimmer, I do NO water changes. I am running fowlrs, one 90G with a rhino and 4 lionfish. A 210g with a tessa and a bc29 with a trio of pygmy waspfish and a flame hawk, NO water changes for 4 years now. Low light and barely clean at all. I stopped doing water changes when I got rid of my last reef and turned it into my 90G venom fowlr, I removed the filter sock in an eshopps sump and put in a submersible tunze refugium light. I run gracalaria, ulva, and caulerpa. BC29 has a refugium chamber, and I run a 40B sidecar for the 210g.
That’s awesome, I would love to someday be able to do that.
 

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I use a large refugium and an oversized skimmer. Works for me. For light I use a strong grow light from Lowes. Much cheaper then anything you'll get from an Aquarium store.

Thats a hard question but they are not intelligent fish. It will come out and hunt for food and go back to its burrow. Its really about you. It is a fish you want to see swim and the more room you give it the better.
@Slocke how often does your banded eel swim openly?? Im currently communicating with Dr reef about one after my last post. I didnt realize they were open swimmers like that which would be something I would really enjoy in an eel since morays really just chill in their spot
 
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