Ras Bubbles
Community Member
- Joined
- May 3, 2017
- Messages
- 70
- Reaction score
- 46
Ahoy !! My fellow marine junkies. After my previous 300 gal scapeing disaster, of which i now see as more of a blessing than a curse. Due to the fact that I can now take my time and do it right this time. I’ve always been interested in flow within the substrate and have decided to incorporate a reverse flow under gravel system into the build. I’m a bit of a biologist in spirit so I am thinking of creating a sort of secondary fuge macro nursery/pod farm within a 3” space in the rear that runs the length of the tank. This will be a 3 inch space in between a diy reef background. The idea is to have a continuous supply of macro and pods without my tangs devouring them faster than they can reproduce. This will be a slow build due to work out of town but an interesting one nonetheless . I will share my little doodle of what I have in mind with hopes that all the commoners like myself, the experts, biologists and DIY wizards can lend their wealth of knowledge to this meager build. To help me make it all make sense
Current equipment list :
STAYGROW Arctic Series DC-8500 Pump, 24V 80W 2642 GPH
180 gal (overkill )custom pvc and acrylic sump
3 Bozily 300W LED reef Lights , App Control Dimmer and Timer.
To be continued…
Here is a few pics
Here is the 1st floating scape attempt that caused the 300 gl disaster. Acrylic siliconed to glass is a big no no. Let alone underwater, a chemical disaster killing all the micro & macro biodiversity I spent time cultivating.
I built these floating scapes epoxied on a custom built L acrylic bracket/shelf
They were originally siliconed directly to aquarium back glass, which was a bad idea, acrylic to silicone or acrylic siliconed to glass does not work or does not adhere properly to one another especially with the load of rock work.
That is why I had to epoxy glass to the back of acrylic L brackets that way when I attach the rock work to the aquarium back glass, it will be siliconed between glass & glass. I also installed acrylic braces drilled and secured with nylon screws underneath the heavier rock work/ ledge and then hid it away in small rock work.
Current equipment list :
Jebao MCP-180 WIFI Cross-Flow Pump 9642gph
Jebao MDP wifi Smart DC Pump(MDP-8000) 2113gph
Custom euro braced 72”L x 30”Dx 36”H aquarium
Staygrow Atlantic Series WP-10000 Wave Maker for Aquarium, DC 24V 20W 2642 GPH
STAYGROW Arctic Series DC-8500 Pump, 24V 80W 2642 GPH
FZONE ATO with Solenoid for RO/DI System
180 gal (overkill )custom pvc and acrylic sump
3 Bozily 300W LED reef Lights , App Control Dimmer and Timer.
To be continued…
Here is a few pics
Here is the 1st floating scape attempt that caused the 300 gl disaster. Acrylic siliconed to glass is a big no no. Let alone underwater, a chemical disaster killing all the micro & macro biodiversity I spent time cultivating.
I built these floating scapes epoxied on a custom built L acrylic bracket/shelf
They were originally siliconed directly to aquarium back glass, which was a bad idea, acrylic to silicone or acrylic siliconed to glass does not work or does not adhere properly to one another especially with the load of rock work.
That is why I had to epoxy glass to the back of acrylic L brackets that way when I attach the rock work to the aquarium back glass, it will be siliconed between glass & glass. I also installed acrylic braces drilled and secured with nylon screws underneath the heavier rock work/ ledge and then hid it away in small rock work.
